My 2000 S4 has a slight oil leak at the driver side turbo. The Car has 108K on it. I have been the owner of if for the past year(purchased aug '10 with 101K on it). I noticed the leak shortly after I bought it becuase I could smell oil burning ever so slightly. After investigating(pulling front bumper and most of the rad support) I noticed the turbo had been dripping oil onto a hot piece of exhaust. It hasn't really gotten much worse since last year, but it has gotten worse. My car can't be the only one with this to happen. I am just wondering how long this could go on for before the turbo goes?

The car is still like new inside and out. The car was meticulously maintained before I owned it. It has had Mobil 1 0w-40 full synthetic since it was new. Can I try a different oil to help slow the leak?

How much work is it to do the Turbo's? I am quite the DIY guy. I rebuilt a 4.6L SOHC engine in my supercharged, nitrous injected 2000 mustang GT a few years back. Is pulling the engine required? Or can they be reached from below after removing the exhaust?

I want to learn more about these cars but would like to postpone this task until the wife is out of college in May. Timing belt was done at 75K, so i was also hoping to get a little more use out of that and then doing everything at once.

Thoughts?

 

your gonna have to pull the engine. i yanked the engine and tranny as a whole.

this'll help:
Car **** Inside

not sure how long your turbo will last. i replaced both of mine at the first sign of oil leak. mine were leaking bad however. i failed to notice the problem until i upgraded my sway bars and had to remove the plastic skid plate. it looked like a BP oil spill.

do you hear a "dentist drill" sound coming from the turbo?

 

This car makes absolutely no noises. the turbo's are good and strong, so they seem. never driven another S4.

how many miles did your turbos have before you replaced them? did you do the turbo's yourself. Did you use that guide under the link you provided? just wondering if there are any errors in it.

how do I find out if my car has a coded radio? I have had the battery unhooked before with no consiquences upon my next startup.

 

i replaced my turbos at 85,000 miles. i did do the turbos myself. i used a combination of the guide i linked you to and help from people on here and audizine. its really not that hard just tedious and time consuming. didnt find any errors but didnt follow it exactly. there is another diy engine removal someone did on an a6 with the same engine that was really helpful. check the audizine diy section.

your radio should be coded. if you have disconnected your battery you should have to enter your radio code to take it out of safe mode. the code should be in your radio owners manual.

 

I will get the code so at least I have it.

I think I am going to try and fend off new turbo's till next year. I want to do it right and also would like to give it some more power. I see that you have K04's. I notice this is a pretty popular upgrade for these cars. I pretty much know nothing about turbo's. Other than the concept of how they work. So here are a few questions I have...

Are the K04's the best in the market for these cars?
What all would need to be done besides the turbo's?
What are some ways I could tune the car for the upgrades?
What could I expect out of a K04 upgrade when it comes to MPG?
What kind of PSI do they put down?
What is the HP gain with doing the K04 upgrade? Quarter mile times?
And how much would I be looking at spending if I do a K04 upgrade?

Sorry to ramble. hope you can answer most of them.

 

1.the k04's are great turbos. they come off of the European b5 rs4. there are other turbo upgrades like the frankenturbos which are really popular right now and rival the k04's. there are also larger turbos like the tial 605's and 770's which are great too. the k04's are just the most tried and true.

2. besides the turbos you would be needing inlet pipes, fueling, intercoolers, downpipes. exhaust and a tune. this is to take full advantage of the k04's.

3. tuning can be done by many companies. EPL, APR, Vast, MTM, GIAC, JFonz Tuning, etc.

4. i get like 10-15mpg

5. full stage 3 setup on k04's puts out around 20-25psi. water/meth really helps.

6. hp can hit around 400awhp-450awhp. WHEN TUNED PROPERLY!!!

7. gets close to $10k when done properly. many factory items on your car will need to be replaced during this build. these are ten year old cars.

 

youre positive that its the turbos?? sure its not a valve cover gasket or leaking chain tensioner seal??

 

i actually just changed to oil last weekend. and just as much oil came out as I put into it. So I think i am going to hold off as long as possible. doesnt seem to be as bad as i thought.

another problem that just popped up today is that the coolant temperature gauge is acting up. this is the first time i have noticed it and i am always looking at my gauges everytime i drive. It doesnt seem to want to move much past the cold mark. it moves ever so slightly but thats about it. It did move to about 50% to the normal after about 10 minutes of driving but I arrived at my destination. When i left there, it was back on Cold and would not budge for the trip back home. If that isnt strange my check engine light went off suddenly. It has been on for a year and I had it checked out to be an O2 sensor. It hasnt been off since last year and was on yesterday.

now the car is getting warm like it should(doesnt seem to be getting hot). no signs of overheating. its 85 outside and usually warms up within a minute or two of driving. Usually with a bad thermostat a coolant gauge would just read hot. are these cars backwards? lol.

the coolant reservoir is filled between max and min.

could it be a bad temperature sensor?

why the check engine light going off? this may just be a coincidence.

thoughts?

 

coolant temp sensor needs to be replaced.

Audi B5 S4 2.7T > Search > Temperature Sensor > ES#1892661 Coolant Temperature Sensor With O-Ring & Clip - 059919501A

same thing happened to me with the check engine light on an 02 sensor. occasionally the code clears on its own. still need to change it though.

 

Where exactly is it located? I'm trying to do it right now. Lol