I recently purchased a 2000 S4 with 95K The car has recently had the turbos replaced and installed a chip and other aftermarket part.

One of the major items that has not been updated is the Timing belt and all of the related items (water pump, tensioners, etc) This is obviously one of the first things I'm getting changed. An Audi buddy of mine and I are doing all of the work. We thought we could get away with not using Cam Locking tool that ECS sells for about $170. However, after realizing that we're going to replace the cam seals as well, we figured we'd better get the tool. So, I have a couple questions:

1. Is there anyone in the Indianapolis (even Chicago or Cincy) area that would be willing to let me borrow/rent their cam locking tool?
or
2. I read somewhere that someone welded up their own tool. If so, are there any dimensions that need to be followed for me to make my own tool. I do have access to a full metal shop if need be.

If someone has any information, please let me know as the car is currently torn apart and we are stuck at this point. Thanks,
Jason

 

Buy the tool!

If not, you can buy your parts from http://www.blauparts.com/index.html, you can rent all the tools form them.

Really, if you are doing the other gaskets, you NEED the bar.

 

Thanks for the advice, but we managed to do the timing belt change without the cam lock tool. We did however buy the crank lock tool from Baum tools (before you had responded to my post - otherwise I would have probably gone with Blau.) I had them overnight the tool to me. The only thing we didn't install from the entire ECS kit was the cam seals which 2k mentioned was very difficult. They were not leaking and we didn't believe it was necessary to change the seals.

While I had the car apart, I did quite a few repairs. We changed the timing belt and all related items, replaced the MAF sensor (bosch), replaced all rotors and pad (very expensive) due to violent shaking when braking, replaced the entire half shaft due to a tear in the CV boot, refilled my power steering fluid which was low with the special pentosine fluid (it says CHF on the front and it's in a green metal can), wiper blades, Mobile 1 oil change, and finding the radio code. The only thing now that needs fixed on the car now is the rear passenger side window that is broken. It is quite nice to know your car is in great shape for the next 2 years in grad school.

I had a couple of insights from my experience doing the timing belt change:

1. Instead of taking the entire front end off the car to complete the change, we simply moved the car into the "service position". I think it saved us a fair bit time and headaches.
2. My battery had died and I did not have the code to fix the radio. The local dealer wanted $50 to get the code. I was able to get the code for free using the VAG tool. Remember that if you are stuggling to find your code on a used car.
3. Double and triple check to make sure that your parts are correct from local auto parts stores. As you can imagine, most stores don't stock S4 parts and when they special order them from you, they will probably be wrong. I went to Napa 5 times to get my parts. It was very frustrating. I finally found my parts at other vendors. If time is not an issue (it was for me), I would just go to an online specialist.
4. ECS tuning is a very well laid out website which gives you confidence to buy from them. You know the parts will be right the first time you get them. They did not however pack the parts very well in box. My new wiper blade were not in packaging and bent up.
5. When removing the half shaft to change, you need to remove the main bolt which can be difficult. First, not many people have an allen wrench big enough to fit the nut. Second, if you remove the caliper first, it is hard to keep the rotor from turning the remove the nut. We noticed that you can fit a slim wrench over one of your lug nuts and use the lug nut to loosen the bolt adding a breaker bar to the wrench. It worked like a charm.
6. The main crank bolt is supposed to be torqued per the manual to 148 ft lbs plus another 180 degrees of rotation. That is some crazy torque. We were able to get about 135 degrees. Something was going to snap if we went further. I hope that is OK.
7. Instead of using the cam locking bar, we simply marked the cam gears on the gear and above the gears and counted the number of teeth between the markings (I think it was 88). Then we made sure the cams lined up and we had the same number of teeth between the cam gears. Before we fired up the engine, we manually turned over the crank to make sure no pistons were destroying valves. Once we were sure, we started the engine and everything was fine. If I had to do it over again, I would have just bought the tool for the extra $80 or so for piece of mind and accuracy.

All said and done, we spent probably $1000 or so in parts and nothing for labor. If I had all of that done at a dealer or shop we were looking at an easy $3500. Next up is fixing the rear window and then installing lowering shocks and springs. I am also going to go back to the OEM rims as I like them better than the Flix that came with the car. The stock suspension on the S4 is not all impressive to me being a sports car. My other car is a 99 328i with the sport suspension (stock) and it could def take the S in the twistys. Plus the stance of the lowered car is much more sporty.

Please post with any comments of questions.

Jason

 

Thanks for the advice, but we managed to do the timing belt change without the cam lock tool. We did however buy the crank lock tool from Baum tools (before you had responded to my post - otherwise I would have probably gone with Blau.) I had them overnight the tool to me. The only thing we didn't install from the entire ECS kit was the cam seals which 2k mentioned was very difficult. They were not leaking and we didn't believe it was necessary to change the seals.

While I had the car apart, I did quite a few repairs. We changed the timing belt and all related items, replaced the MAF sensor (bosch), replaced all rotors and pad (very expensive) due to violent shaking when braking, replaced the entire half shaft due to a tear in the CV boot, refilled my power steering fluid which was low with the special pentosine fluid (it says CHF on the front and it's in a green metal can), wiper blades, Mobile 1 oil change, and finding the radio code. The only thing now that needs fixed on the car now is the rear passenger side window that is broken. It is quite nice to know your car is in great shape for the next 2 years in grad school.

I had a couple of insights from my experience doing the timing belt change:

1. Instead of taking the entire front end off the car to complete the change, we simply moved the car into the "service position". I think it saved us a fair bit time and headaches.
2. My battery had died and I did not have the code to fix the radio. The local dealer wanted $50 to get the code. I was able to get the code for free using the VAG tool. Remember that if you are stuggling to find your code on a used car.
3. Double and triple check to make sure that your parts are correct from local auto parts stores. As you can imagine, most stores don't stock S4 parts and when they special order them from you, they will probably be wrong. I went to Napa 5 times to get my parts. It was very frustrating. I finally found my parts at other vendors. If time is not an issue (it was for me), I would just go to an online specialist.
4. ECS tuning is a very well laid out website which gives you confidence to buy from them. You know the parts will be right the first time you get them. They did not however pack the parts very well in box. My new wiper blade were not in packaging and bent up.
5. When removing the half shaft to change, you need to remove the main bolt which can be difficult. First, not many people have an allen wrench big enough to fit the nut. Second, if you remove the caliper first, it is hard to keep the rotor from turning the remove the nut. We noticed that you can fit a slim wrench over one of your lug nuts and use the lug nut to loosen the bolt adding a breaker bar to the wrench. It worked like a charm.
6. The main crank bolt is supposed to be torqued per the manual to 148 ft lbs plus another 180 degrees of rotation. That is some crazy torque. We were able to get about 135 degrees. Something was going to snap if we went further. I hope that is OK.
7. Instead of using the cam locking bar, we simply marked the cam gears on the gear and above the gears and counted the number of teeth between the markings (I think it was 88). Then we made sure the cams lined up and we had the same number of teeth between the cam gears. Before we fired up the engine, we manually turned over the crank to make sure no pistons were destroying valves. Once we were sure, we started the engine and everything was fine. If I had to do it over again, I would have just bought the tool for the extra $80 or so for piece of mind and accuracy.

All said and done, we spent probably $1000 or so in parts and nothing for labor. If I had all of that done at a dealer or shop we were looking at an easy $3500. Next up is fixing the rear window and then installing lowering shocks and springs. I am also going to go back to the OEM rims as I like them better than the Flix that came with the car. The stock suspension on the S4 is not all impressive to me being a sports car. My other car is a 99 328i with the sport suspension (stock) and it could def take the S in the twistys. Plus the stance of the lowered car is much more sporty.

Please post with any comments of questions.

Jason

 

NICE... way to go, I know it always feels good to walk away from finishing something, knowing that it was done right, and you saved money.

 

2.How did you get the code with a Vag-com? Did someone leave a tag on there with the code?

3.Get ALL the parts first! It really sucks having to stop & makes multiple trips.

5. This made me LOL! Remove the wheel center cap. Put the wheel back on the car, lower it to the ground, then remove the hex hut! It's a LOT easier, & you also torque it this way. One of my boot kits came with a 17mm socket instead of the hex bolt.

 

I'm not exactly sure how my buddy got the code with the VAG. I had left to get some parts and came back and he had the radio working. He also told me the 4 digit code, so apparently the VAG found the number and then he manually put it into the radio. I can get detail information on how to do it if anyone is interested.Just left me know...

 

Doh! Sorry I just now read this post looking for other Indy members. I bought one to do my timing change. Idda let you borrow it for free

 

I just changed my timing belt in my S4 this past weekend and I am in Indy as well. I made do without any of the tools as well. I was concerned doing the job myself but did anyway and am paranoid that I screwed something up because I hear a clicking in the engine. I think the click was there before but I keep worrying. Do you hear a clicking in your engine bay? (stupid Patriots...)

 

Another topic about the clicking. https://www.audiforums.com/m_696705/tm.htmMine clicked before and after the timing belt job.

(Brady is so smug [:@])