gt28rs or k04???
#22
02-26-2009, 09:43 PM
Here is my $.02. If you go with RS6's and have all of the supporting mods that help your set up flow well. you will be 450awhp all day. With good gas sunoco 94 and Meth I would be hard pressed to see anything under 480-490 AWHP. I have a picture of a Mustang Dyno sheet on my computer from an RS6 car (W/O rods) with meth and Turbo Blue 110 oct. and it was 510 AWHP and 535 AWFTLBS. Take into consideration that every dyno is different, every day a car can run different, and every car runs different. So when you see 450 hp its not more than $600 away from 500 awhp glory!! What ever you decide, I'm sure you will be more than happy with your car... there aren't too many cars out there that will beat you and you will upset a lot of 12 second factory rides.
#23
02-26-2009, 09:49 PM
I'd say go 3.0 stroker and GT's or RS6 hybrids
#24
02-26-2009, 11:36 PM
so i noticed it was mentioned that the heads need to be rebuilt to run higher 8500 rpms.. what is the highest rpm this engine will run without heads being rebuilt? see.. i kinda have the cant wait that long syndrome.. im going to have a few grand soon but dont wanna wait till i have 15000 before i go all out.. so i need to know the limits of what i have (stock engine and whatever turbo kit i go with) so i can get started and then in another year or so do more work, perhaps mod the engine install rods and rebuild the heads and get another 100 to 150 out then...im assuming supporting mods are FMIC and downpipes..
#25
02-27-2009, 02:08 AM
Sorry to crosspost, but this pretty much sums up my views on the different turbo options KO4-GT
http://www.audizine.com/forum/showpo...8&postcount=11
I personally don't think .3l increase really helps too much with spool. If I were needing to replace the pistons, I'd prob just bore it out to 2.8l and save the money that would've had to be spent on the 3.0l crank etc., but that's just my opinion.
Alex's car, the one in the video, has fully built 2.8l heads, RS4 intake system and just about everything you can do to the motor. His build was not cheap whatsoever and is not stock at all (other than the 2.7l bore).
About 9 grand less than ASP's kit with half the parts and no fueling. If you have alot of money to spend and using the stock manifold is your top priority then go with the TiAL's, otherwise I'd skip. ASP's $14k or $15k kit or whatever it is has a ton of stuff, such as motor mounts and stuff. I believe WMS is selling the base ASP kit (which I think is just the turbo kit and fueling) for like $10k or something around there, and the GenX kit is $8k W/O fueling IIRC, so they're really comparable price-wise. I'd rather have GenX's manifolds though, even if it does end up costing a little bit more.
Not that it would've made the outcome different, but just so you have more info about the video (assuming you're talking about the newer WMS one) the GT car was running race gas and the KO4 was running 91 oct Cali crap gas. Like I said, the outcome wouldn't have been terribly different and the GT cars are way faster than KO4's, but I think the cars should've both been on the same gas to make it a completely accurate comparison.
This quote answers your whole dilema. Simply put, get a KO4 setup with upgraded downpipes and intercoolers and enjoy your ~400whp daily. You don't want to go much higher power than that without upgrading the engine and other stuff, and the price jumps incredibly for the next step over KO4's. With all of the people who are currently stage 3 and upgrading to RS6's or GT's, there is/will be many used KO4 kits on the market soon. Buy one of those for less than $4k (that's what I'd do if I weren't doing my current build).
I disagree with that. RS6's aren't THAT much bigger than regular KO4's, and I don't think it bumps them back a full 500 RPM's. Again, just my opinion from having looked at a bunch of different logs, but I'll hopefully have my own soon to contribute.
The cost of an engine build definitely creeps up on you (ask me how I know). Depending on the route you take, it could likely be even more than that. For example:
-Rods alone $850-1200
-Main and rod bearings $200-300
-Cost to tear down and assemble engine by machine shop $$$$ (I was shocked at how much all the shops wanted for this)
-Cost for machine shop to balance the rotating assembly ~$250
-Head and Main bolts- ~$150
-Rear and Front Main Seals ~$250-300
If you do this as well:
-New piston rings ~$250-300
-Cost for machine shop to hone cylinders $$
-Head reseal kit (cam seals/plugs, tensioner gaskets, valve cover gaskets, headgaskets, intake and exhaust mani gaskets, etc) - $150-250
And all of that above is the cost just for "throwing in rods," no headwork at all and no clutch/flywheel. A clutch that can handle the power of RS6's is upwards of $1300 with a flywheel, not including random things like flywheel bolts.
This stuff is alot more expensive than the average person casually considering it realizes before the details are delved into.
Unless it's the GT2554, it's not spooling as quick as the RS6's. The GT2560's are just much larger turbos.
Whatup buddy? Any progress on your end?
If he has the money for the GT kit minus the engine build, I'd personally go with either GT2554's/GT2854's or GT2860-707160-7
http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbob...R_707160_7.htm
because without a built engine he wouldn't be able to take all the power bigger turbos would put out with their airflow, and without built heads he wouldn't be able to take advantage of the higher powerband of even the 2560's (they're still huge turbos themselves.) With one of those 3 turbos lag would be reduced for sure as well. I want someone to go with the GT2860-7's so bad! Perfect compromise and awesome efficiency!
I've heard of people running up to 7400-7600 RPM's on the stock valvetrain, but don't quote me on that.
Wow, now I just spent my entire night replying to one post lol
http://www.audizine.com/forum/showpo...8&postcount=11
Yeah listen to Guru cause he's one of the very few on here who actually ran GT2554's.
Since I've been researching this exact thing for the past half-year+ I'll give my opinion. It really depends on a few things. What are your goals? Will the car be your daily driver? Are you planning on road racing? How important is your budget? Are you willing to build your engine (rods at least)?
Speaking in generalities, I see the turbo options in like 3 tiers:
KO4's-~380-450whp
RS6's and GT2554/GT2854-~450-530whp
GT2560/2860/2860rs-530whp+
KO4's----In my opinion, if you're not putting rods in your engine, then it's not worth spending the extra couple of grand for the options above KO4's (except for maybe RS6's). Sure you can run them on lower boost and be more in their efficiency range, thus being cooler and more reliable, but with the price difference required (not small) to run them there's not really any point if you're going to run them at the same power levels as KO4's. The only way I would go with RS6's to run lower boost on a stock motor is if I didn't already have downpipes that would fit KO4's, my only KO4 option was to buy new KO4's at $2400 and I didn't mind paying the extra $1k for the RS6 turbos.
I personally was looking to piece together a KO4 setup rather cheaply. Used (and some new) fueling kits are like $1000-1500, or can be pieced together for the lower end of that spectrum and then go with a custom tune (which is what I was going to do because I'm going to be running a custom SSP E85 tune). If you want to go minimalist you could go with the stock airbox (darintake if you want), RS4 accordian ($60), 85mm MAF ($200+), 60lb injectors ($282 on sale from Integrating Engineering right now
http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php?t=235847
), spacers and fuel rail bolts (~$20?). Used KO4's go for $1100-2000 (and if you go used and they're in good shape you don't have to worry about that omnious 'bad batch' of KO4's from Borg Warner because the turbos have been tried out for a few thousand miles.) Inlets are like $375 from genJDM (don't know if he is doing them anymore) or 034. Installation hardware is $60-80. A custom tune will run anywhere from ~$650 on up to whatever, don't really know what the big tuners charge. Of course things you'll need for any of the above turbo options: Downpipes (piggies=free or ~$300?, or JHM 2,5" ~$850, used others for ~$1k, or new other 3" for $1600+), Catback (custom, APR/ASP/etc ~$1k) Upgraded intercoolers ($400 ebay/JHM FMIC - $1300 ER SMIC's), upgraded clutch ($550-900 + $350-500 LWFW if you so choose), motor and tranny mounts (don't know what they currently charge, but 034 was the cheapest and killer quality). Some other things you may want to consider: MBC, Samco hoses, a wideband o2 sensor, phoenlic spacers, spark plugs, DV's, random gaskets/seals to replace while the motor's out.
So KO4 positives- cheapest of the 3 tiers, bolt on, tons of tuning options and experience, good spool for daily drive/road racing, KO4's on race gas pretty much as much power as one would want to go without upgraded rods, reliable power levels for other components (axles, tranny, diff, subframe mounts, etc)
KO4 negatives- worry of brand new turbos blowing (may be blown out of proportion), relatively limited power (though I would think it is well more than enough for most people to daily drive)
RS6's---- So the beginning of the next tier is straight RS6's. They have more power potential, but with that means upgrading the rods to reliably run them at their potential. The least expensive rods I've found are the forged h-beam rods from Integrated Engineering for $850. http://www.intengineering.com/Shop/C...id/0/SFV/32093
With that there's the added labor of breaking down the engine, getting the rods installed, balancing the rotating assembly, and reassembling. While all of that is out you probably want to replace the main and rod bearings ($60 and $100 respectively.) Plus you'll need a new headgaskets ($70 from 034) and whatever other gaskets. The cheapest machine shop quotes I've got for the labor are: $80 to disassemble (I feel this is going to go way up when he sees how complicated our 2.7t is), $100 to hottank and mic everything (check wrist pin clearance, pistons, cylinder, etc) to make sure it's in spec, $175 to balance, and $150 to reassemble. While you're in there you may as well clean up the heads (and the thought keeps creeping into my mind that while I'm in there I may as well build the heads[
], but it would be pointless on RS6's). You may also want to get new rings and a light hone. I have a feeling those labor quotes are quite optimistic though. With the added power you're probably running on the edge of what a clutch that you'd use for the regular KO4's could handle, so you'd probably want to step up to a heavier duty (more expensive clutch as well). You'll want to upgrade the fuel pump also. A walbro 255lph would prob do ($105-$205), but I'm going with a Bosch 044 with the amount of fuel I'm going to have to flow running E85. Brand new RS6 turbos already modified to fit the S4 are $3400-3600 and come with the necessary flanges to modify your current dp's if you already have some (I can attest that that is a very decent deal because brand new RS6's (unmodified to fit the S4) from the dealer were like $1490 + ~$450 core charge per turbo even with my employee discount.) If you don't already have DP's, JHM sells some for cheap that already have the RS6 flange on them (~$850), but they're 2.5" compared to other company's 3" (so I'm modifying my ASP's rather than selling them to get the 2.5"er's) So if you don't get those DP's you'll have to get the RS6 flanges welded on (should be cheap). Other than that, the rest should cost the same as KO4's. Things to consider: bipipes (I went with genJDM's), RS4 airbox/ CAI?, adjustable FPR?, lower compression Headgaskets?, oil cooler?, can 710n or p DV's handle RS6's?
So RS6 positives- more power, still decent spool, reliability of forged rods, uses stock fuel/coolant lines, uses KO4 inlets
RS6 negatives-more expensive (turbos, rods, labor, dp flange, fuel pump), not bolt on (if you're doing rods), slightly more wear on the rest of the car with the added power
GT2554/2854---- After this you have GT2554/2854 setups. In my opinion, I can't justify going with these specific turbos over RS6's because of the added expense/benefit ratio unless you get a really good deal on a used setup or something. These require new exhaust manifolds, downpipes, inlets, wastegates, oil and coolant lines and hardware. As a benefit, however, all of these added expenses add performance (except the lines/hardware). It would be really tough to build a one off GT kit because the manifolds and dp's would be tough to build easily and right the first time, the turbos themselves need to be modified a little bit, and it would be kind of a pain to fabricate the oil lines, coolant lines, and inlets. So we're somewhat at the mercy of the assembled kits, which even at $8k for turbos/turbo hardware etc (no fueling) definitely isn't for a budget build. These turbos are ball bearing, and are therefore more efficient and some argue more reliable (though I've never heard of an RS6 turbo blow). They'll probably spool around the same time as RS6's, but have a little more headroom up top (this is educated conjecture of course, based on my research.) They should be somewhat comparable to RS6's as far as powerband/spool is concerned (I'm sure I'll get alot of comments about this whole paragraph). If I were to spend the money on a GT kit with manifolds/etc I'd go with a bigger turbo than the 2554 to make it worth it the money. Tials are out for me in my opinion because at ~$5500 for just the turbos, I'd rather spend the extra $2500 for nice manis/dp's when running this much power/airflow. I didn't add up the exact retail cost of the stuff I listed above in the RS6 to compare to retail genJDM kit without fueling @ $8k, but for me personally it was more than $4.5k more to go with a GT kit over the RS6 (I already have some parts and found some good deals). I'm sure if you were paying full retail for both that gap would close a little, if you want to know, just add up the stuff I listed above. Since my car will be my daily driver/road track day racer (spool and reliability important), I'm willing to do rods, and I want to minimize incidental other breakages (tranny, etc), and budget is important, I was looking for a setup the 500-550whp range. Since I wouldn't be going all out with GT2860rs', I couldn't justify the additional expense to go with a GT kit over RS6's (especially since I'll be running an E85 tune, which should be over 500whp with RS6's). On the other hand, my ideal setup (if money weren't a factor) would be a GT kit with GT2860R-707160-7 turbos that noone's used on the S4 yet.
GT2554 positives - slightly more headroom, efficiency, reliability, tubular manifolds/dps
GT2554 negatives - relatively big jump in price, not huge power jump over RS6, requires custom headers/etc
GT2860-7---- SOMEBODY DO THESE TURBOS![:d] I feel that these are the perfect happy medium between the 2554/2854 and the larger 2560/2860's
http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbob...R_707160_7.htm
They've got 75% turbine efficiency compared to the 2560's 65%. If I were to go GT, with my goals this would be my turbo.
GT2560/2860/2860rs---- This is the 3rd tier. This is where the sky's the limit and stuff gets expensive too. Things to consider: build the heads?,RS4 intake/TB/etc?, big bore?, upgrade drivetrain?, twin disk clutch?,
positives -power, potential,
negatives - cost, lag, inherent reliability issues with that much power, daily drivability?
Wow, now that I wrote a freaking dissertation on turbo upgrade options for the S4 I think I'm done typing for a while. All of this is of course my opinion and should be taken as such. It was formed after researching everywhere for the past year, so I thought I'd compile it in one place to save others some time. If anyone wants to know more about specific deals that I've found or other potential issues that I've found, feel free to PM me.[race]
Since I've been researching this exact thing for the past half-year+ I'll give my opinion. It really depends on a few things. What are your goals? Will the car be your daily driver? Are you planning on road racing? How important is your budget? Are you willing to build your engine (rods at least)?
Speaking in generalities, I see the turbo options in like 3 tiers:
KO4's-~380-450whp
RS6's and GT2554/GT2854-~450-530whp
GT2560/2860/2860rs-530whp+
KO4's----In my opinion, if you're not putting rods in your engine, then it's not worth spending the extra couple of grand for the options above KO4's (except for maybe RS6's). Sure you can run them on lower boost and be more in their efficiency range, thus being cooler and more reliable, but with the price difference required (not small) to run them there's not really any point if you're going to run them at the same power levels as KO4's. The only way I would go with RS6's to run lower boost on a stock motor is if I didn't already have downpipes that would fit KO4's, my only KO4 option was to buy new KO4's at $2400 and I didn't mind paying the extra $1k for the RS6 turbos.
I personally was looking to piece together a KO4 setup rather cheaply. Used (and some new) fueling kits are like $1000-1500, or can be pieced together for the lower end of that spectrum and then go with a custom tune (which is what I was going to do because I'm going to be running a custom SSP E85 tune). If you want to go minimalist you could go with the stock airbox (darintake if you want), RS4 accordian ($60), 85mm MAF ($200+), 60lb injectors ($282 on sale from Integrating Engineering right now
http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php?t=235847
), spacers and fuel rail bolts (~$20?). Used KO4's go for $1100-2000 (and if you go used and they're in good shape you don't have to worry about that omnious 'bad batch' of KO4's from Borg Warner because the turbos have been tried out for a few thousand miles.) Inlets are like $375 from genJDM (don't know if he is doing them anymore) or 034. Installation hardware is $60-80. A custom tune will run anywhere from ~$650 on up to whatever, don't really know what the big tuners charge. Of course things you'll need for any of the above turbo options: Downpipes (piggies=free or ~$300?, or JHM 2,5" ~$850, used others for ~$1k, or new other 3" for $1600+), Catback (custom, APR/ASP/etc ~$1k) Upgraded intercoolers ($400 ebay/JHM FMIC - $1300 ER SMIC's), upgraded clutch ($550-900 + $350-500 LWFW if you so choose), motor and tranny mounts (don't know what they currently charge, but 034 was the cheapest and killer quality). Some other things you may want to consider: MBC, Samco hoses, a wideband o2 sensor, phoenlic spacers, spark plugs, DV's, random gaskets/seals to replace while the motor's out.
So KO4 positives- cheapest of the 3 tiers, bolt on, tons of tuning options and experience, good spool for daily drive/road racing, KO4's on race gas pretty much as much power as one would want to go without upgraded rods, reliable power levels for other components (axles, tranny, diff, subframe mounts, etc)
KO4 negatives- worry of brand new turbos blowing (may be blown out of proportion), relatively limited power (though I would think it is well more than enough for most people to daily drive)
RS6's---- So the beginning of the next tier is straight RS6's. They have more power potential, but with that means upgrading the rods to reliably run them at their potential. The least expensive rods I've found are the forged h-beam rods from Integrated Engineering for $850. http://www.intengineering.com/Shop/C...id/0/SFV/32093
With that there's the added labor of breaking down the engine, getting the rods installed, balancing the rotating assembly, and reassembling. While all of that is out you probably want to replace the main and rod bearings ($60 and $100 respectively.) Plus you'll need a new headgaskets ($70 from 034) and whatever other gaskets. The cheapest machine shop quotes I've got for the labor are: $80 to disassemble (I feel this is going to go way up when he sees how complicated our 2.7t is), $100 to hottank and mic everything (check wrist pin clearance, pistons, cylinder, etc) to make sure it's in spec, $175 to balance, and $150 to reassemble. While you're in there you may as well clean up the heads (and the thought keeps creeping into my mind that while I'm in there I may as well build the heads[
], but it would be pointless on RS6's). You may also want to get new rings and a light hone. I have a feeling those labor quotes are quite optimistic though. With the added power you're probably running on the edge of what a clutch that you'd use for the regular KO4's could handle, so you'd probably want to step up to a heavier duty (more expensive clutch as well). You'll want to upgrade the fuel pump also. A walbro 255lph would prob do ($105-$205), but I'm going with a Bosch 044 with the amount of fuel I'm going to have to flow running E85. Brand new RS6 turbos already modified to fit the S4 are $3400-3600 and come with the necessary flanges to modify your current dp's if you already have some (I can attest that that is a very decent deal because brand new RS6's (unmodified to fit the S4) from the dealer were like $1490 + ~$450 core charge per turbo even with my employee discount.) If you don't already have DP's, JHM sells some for cheap that already have the RS6 flange on them (~$850), but they're 2.5" compared to other company's 3" (so I'm modifying my ASP's rather than selling them to get the 2.5"er's) So if you don't get those DP's you'll have to get the RS6 flanges welded on (should be cheap). Other than that, the rest should cost the same as KO4's. Things to consider: bipipes (I went with genJDM's), RS4 airbox/ CAI?, adjustable FPR?, lower compression Headgaskets?, oil cooler?, can 710n or p DV's handle RS6's?So RS6 positives- more power, still decent spool, reliability of forged rods, uses stock fuel/coolant lines, uses KO4 inlets
RS6 negatives-more expensive (turbos, rods, labor, dp flange, fuel pump), not bolt on (if you're doing rods), slightly more wear on the rest of the car with the added power
GT2554/2854---- After this you have GT2554/2854 setups. In my opinion, I can't justify going with these specific turbos over RS6's because of the added expense/benefit ratio unless you get a really good deal on a used setup or something. These require new exhaust manifolds, downpipes, inlets, wastegates, oil and coolant lines and hardware. As a benefit, however, all of these added expenses add performance (except the lines/hardware). It would be really tough to build a one off GT kit because the manifolds and dp's would be tough to build easily and right the first time, the turbos themselves need to be modified a little bit, and it would be kind of a pain to fabricate the oil lines, coolant lines, and inlets. So we're somewhat at the mercy of the assembled kits, which even at $8k for turbos/turbo hardware etc (no fueling) definitely isn't for a budget build. These turbos are ball bearing, and are therefore more efficient and some argue more reliable (though I've never heard of an RS6 turbo blow). They'll probably spool around the same time as RS6's, but have a little more headroom up top (this is educated conjecture of course, based on my research.) They should be somewhat comparable to RS6's as far as powerband/spool is concerned (I'm sure I'll get alot of comments about this whole paragraph). If I were to spend the money on a GT kit with manifolds/etc I'd go with a bigger turbo than the 2554 to make it worth it the money. Tials are out for me in my opinion because at ~$5500 for just the turbos, I'd rather spend the extra $2500 for nice manis/dp's when running this much power/airflow. I didn't add up the exact retail cost of the stuff I listed above in the RS6 to compare to retail genJDM kit without fueling @ $8k, but for me personally it was more than $4.5k more to go with a GT kit over the RS6 (I already have some parts and found some good deals). I'm sure if you were paying full retail for both that gap would close a little, if you want to know, just add up the stuff I listed above. Since my car will be my daily driver/road track day racer (spool and reliability important), I'm willing to do rods, and I want to minimize incidental other breakages (tranny, etc), and budget is important, I was looking for a setup the 500-550whp range. Since I wouldn't be going all out with GT2860rs', I couldn't justify the additional expense to go with a GT kit over RS6's (especially since I'll be running an E85 tune, which should be over 500whp with RS6's). On the other hand, my ideal setup (if money weren't a factor) would be a GT kit with GT2860R-707160-7 turbos that noone's used on the S4 yet.
GT2554 positives - slightly more headroom, efficiency, reliability, tubular manifolds/dps
GT2554 negatives - relatively big jump in price, not huge power jump over RS6, requires custom headers/etc
GT2860-7---- SOMEBODY DO THESE TURBOS![:d] I feel that these are the perfect happy medium between the 2554/2854 and the larger 2560/2860's
http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbob...R_707160_7.htm
They've got 75% turbine efficiency compared to the 2560's 65%. If I were to go GT, with my goals this would be my turbo.
GT2560/2860/2860rs---- This is the 3rd tier. This is where the sky's the limit and stuff gets expensive too. Things to consider: build the heads?,RS4 intake/TB/etc?, big bore?, upgrade drivetrain?, twin disk clutch?,
positives -power, potential,
negatives - cost, lag, inherent reliability issues with that much power, daily drivability?
Wow, now that I wrote a freaking dissertation on turbo upgrade options for the S4 I think I'm done typing for a while. All of this is of course my opinion and should be taken as such. It was formed after researching everywhere for the past year, so I thought I'd compile it in one place to save others some time. If anyone wants to know more about specific deals that I've found or other potential issues that I've found, feel free to PM me.[race]
The GT28rs's pretty much require a built top and bottom end, increasing displacement to 3.0L is reccomended for spool, and you need ALL the accessory parts and can be good foe like 600-700 HP. $15,000 will get you the basic parts for the turbo kit itself, but you still need downpipes, intercoolers, a built motor, and more so that estimate could be $10,000 or more too low.
There ARE turbos between the K04 and the GT2871RS.
There ARE turbos between the K04 and the GT2871RS.
whats your opinion on this??
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O2vnaGHp5PU
im going to do some research on the website and see how deep i need to go into the engine itself.. im trying to stay as stock as possible... dont want to do electric cutouts either...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O2vnaGHp5PU
im going to do some research on the website and see how deep i need to go into the engine itself.. im trying to stay as stock as possible... dont want to do electric cutouts either...
No one noticed the new GT28 kit 034 and Tial came out with? about 9 grand less then ASP and supposedly bolts up to the stock mani's and downpipes. http://www.034motorsport.com/product...s1u575a1hctin0
-Rods alone $850-1200
-Main and rod bearings $200-300
-Cost to tear down and assemble engine by machine shop $$$$ (I was shocked at how much all the shops wanted for this)
-Cost for machine shop to balance the rotating assembly ~$250
-Head and Main bolts- ~$150
-Rear and Front Main Seals ~$250-300
If you do this as well:
-New piston rings ~$250-300
-Cost for machine shop to hone cylinders $$
-Head reseal kit (cam seals/plugs, tensioner gaskets, valve cover gaskets, headgaskets, intake and exhaust mani gaskets, etc) - $150-250
And all of that above is the cost just for "throwing in rods," no headwork at all and no clutch/flywheel. A clutch that can handle the power of RS6's is upwards of $1300 with a flywheel, not including random things like flywheel bolts.
This stuff is alot more expensive than the average person casually considering it realizes before the details are delved into.
If he has the money for the GT kit minus the engine build, I'd personally go with either GT2554's/GT2854's or GT2860-707160-7
http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbob...R_707160_7.htm
because without a built engine he wouldn't be able to take all the power bigger turbos would put out with their airflow, and without built heads he wouldn't be able to take advantage of the higher powerband of even the 2560's (they're still huge turbos themselves.) With one of those 3 turbos lag would be reduced for sure as well. I want someone to go with the GT2860-7's so bad! Perfect compromise and awesome efficiency!
Wow, now I just spent my entire night replying to one post lol
#27
02-27-2009, 09:56 AM
Excellent post, yes. I didnt mean to make any gross understatements there, but I did say it was going to take 2-3k more for engine build-up... AND a clutch. I think that I typed it so that it was unclear. Apologies.
Btw, jibberjive, I've been following your build. Cant wait to see it done
Btw, jibberjive, I've been following your build. Cant wait to see it done
#28
02-27-2009, 06:50 PM
awesome posts guys!! all of this discussion and tech specs really puts my ideas and thoughts into perspective as far as the direction im going.. youve all helped me to understand what is going to be the best for me as far as this next year goes.. simply put 400-500 whp is going to be close to $5500 or less, including fmic and tune and such.. and something i can get done in around 2 or 3 weeks tops. what i wanted was 650 whp.. but thatll take three times the cash for starters and much more labor/engine work (something that i dont have the time to do at this point).. so im going to look for some k04's or rs6's (preferably the rs6's) and try to get over 450 to 500 whp without doing any engine mods at this time. then im going to try and locate another 2.7t engine with low mileage that i can keep on a stand in my garage and SLOWLY tear down. then i can take my time, really get to know the engine in and out, and rebuild it with no rush or time limit in hand, then when i can afford for the gt28's and setup thatll cost $9000 or so, have everything installed and then just swap out engines. again this is assuming that once im pushing 450 at the wheels, ill want more like any other boy does.. if ive stated anything that is way off in this post, please let me know.. and again.. kudos to all for your help and insight..
now to discuss things with my financial advisor.. (wife)
now to discuss things with my financial advisor.. (wife)
