After trying a number of different methods to remove/replace my front axles, I finally came up with what, IMHO, is a foolproof method. I tried removing the pinch bolt, but it would NOT budge despite many days of bathing it in Kroil, hammering, and heating. I don't believe thatI'd have been able to get mine out without destroying it, which would haveonly multiplied the ampunt of work required[sm=bangbang.gif]. I also tried the method of jacking up thehub in order to gain more clearance, which worked on the drivers side (JUUUUST barely) butdidn't work on the passenger side. Perhaps there's less clearance on mine sinceit's a Tiptronic. Anyway, I wasbasically SOL using the more conventional methods and therefore had to improvise something...

What I came up with is a methodfor removing the top control arms at the shock tower bracket without first loosening or removing the bracket. Removing the upper rear control armis easy sincethere's enough clearance for the boltto be pushed out toward the rear of the car once the nut is removed. The problem is that the front control arm bolt cannot be removed without first unbolting the shock tower bracket sincethe control arm boltwas inserted from the front side at the factory, and therefore cannot be removed with the bracket in place since the wheel well is in the way. (The only possible reason I can think of for the factory to insert this bolt from the front is to make removing it a royal PITA for the DIYer.) Since there's enough clearance to insert this bolt from the other direction with the bracket in place, my solution was to remove the nut and push the bolt out just enough to get my sawzall in there and cut off the head of the bolt. It's then a simple matter of pushing the remaining shaft of the bolt out to the rear, which releases the front upper control arm. Now that both control arms are free, the axle can easily be removed/replaced. Once the new axle is installed, all you need to do is insertBOTHcontrol arm bolts (2 new bolts/nuts ~ $6 at the dealer) from the rear side (theCORRECT way, IMO), install the nuts, and torque 'em up. It's a bit tight up in there to get the proper 37 ft-lb torque + 1/4 turn, but you can do it. I recommendhaving a 16mm crowfoot on hand to make the job easier. Also make sure that you have a sharp blade on your sawzall since this bolt is TOUGH.

This may not be the easiest method if your car is not so old that you can get the pinch bolt out, or if the "jack up the hub" method works for you. Butif you want to enter into thisjobWITH CONFIDENCE that you'll be able to complete it in a reasonable amount of time, then it's the only way to go, short of taking it to the dealer and paying $$$$$'s for them to do it. The only problem is that you still have to pay the dealer $6 for the new nuts/bolt(s), but hey, no method is perfect [sm=smiley4.gif].

I hopethat this method will be of help to some of you.

 

if you loosen the lower rear control arm at the sub frame, pry it out so its free. take loose the tierod end from the spindle. then turn the spindle/hub toward the front the axle will slide out easly. you may also have to take the sheild above the axle off, 3 6mm hex bolts

 

ya i had to replace the top front control arm but didnt think about cutting the bolt. So after prying on the bolt i managed to break one the I holes where the bolt slides through so i had to buy a whole new strut bracket.... It was aPITA