I rebuilt my KO4 turbos and got a brand new AWE Stage 3 clutch and LWF. AFter everything is said and done my engine seems to give off a bit more noise and vibration. This can definitely be heard and felt from inside. Is this normal? My only guess is that the LWF just isn't heavy enough to dampen the engine as much as the stock one. Is my guess probable?

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

I got the 997TT compressor wheels and they are much more quiet than the stock KO4s.

Thanks!

 

It's not typical but FW balance is surely a possibility.

But I wouldn't assume anything just yet.

If you haven't already, with the car on 4 jack stands - back out the engine, trans and snub cage bolts a couple turns at the same time with the engine running to be sure the mounts are settled so there isn't any binding creating chassis vibrations. You may even rev it a little to help it settle.

You may be surprised at how much vibration this can cause. I had to do this both times after I reinstalled my engine.

 

It's a bummer because the engine is already in place and I've been driving it for a couple of weeks. It's a bit odd because it's more than vibration, it's noticeably louder.

 

Its the LWFW. Its about half the weight of stock. Im sure youve noticed that when you put your foot on the clutch the car revs alot faster. Rev-matching shifts is also alot easier.

The vibration should only be really noticable below 2200 RPM's or so and gets louder when you get on the throttle. So if your going to step onit just downshift first to bring the rev's up and it wont vibrate. Eventually youll kinda learn how to drive the car in a way that avoids the vibration but it is there.

To me this seems like what your describing. Its called flywheel chatter, so theres a little vibration but also a noise to go allong with it. It is very noticable with a LWFW

 

It takes all of 20 minutes to put the car up, loosen the bolts, start it up and tighten them back up. And only one 13mm wrench (i think) is needed.

I agree with HP about the FW but the only way to diagnose it completely is to eliminate all other possibilities.

Has the car been doing this the entire time since it was put back together?