RANT, WTF, why so many dam "what oil should I use?"
#1
08-24-2007, 01:36 AM
RANT, WTF, why so many dam "what oil should I use?"
It's getting a little repetitive, in every forum, there is at least 2 post on the 1st page with people asking about oil.
What one to use, what one is the best, can I use X oil? I can only find 5-40 & not 0-40 is that ok?
Sorry, but you can use the internet, there is a WONDERFUL little secret, hidden tool called www.google.com! LEARN IT!
READ THE DAM FAQ's people put time into them, to help the internet, typing, slow challenged people.
YOUR CAR TELLS YOU WHAT OIL TO USE, it's got this thing, called a OWNERS MANUAL, take it out of your glove box & read it! Oh, it's in the car, & your in the house? GET YOUR DAM SHOES ON & GET IT! Augh, your car didn't come with a owner manual? THERE $6 @ the DEALER, GO BUY ONE! Dealer is to far away? GO HERE
http://www.audi.ddsltd.com/cgi-bin/d...C&COMPANY=AUDI Every manual you can ever want.
just some simple oil knowledge........
Synthetic oil & dyno oil are kind of the same, yes, Synth is better, but it's better due to it's molecules all being the same size. This creates less friction, thus less heat, it's also more thermally stable. Most have a higher additive package. You can run either in your engine, it will not blow up, break, or not start. It's actually more important that you change it regularly, then what you put in there. Yea, you will get better MPG, with Synth, but if you use Dyno & change it every 3000mi, you should be just as good as the person using Synth changing it @ 7500mi.
Oh, you have a turbo, then you should be using a synthetic oil. WHY? TURBOs ARE EXPENSIVE! They live with a lot of heat, & only a thin coat of oil, is keeping the turbo spinning. Synth oil will lube it better, keep it cooler & not burn away. Yes, a quality dyno oil will work, but why take the risk?
Your worried about sludge? Well change the dam oil when you should, & don't do a lot of short trips, stop & go, short cold starts, these add to sludge, oh, the quality Synth oil, will help! http://www.synlube.com/sludge.htm
Oil weight.... lets take 10-40w.
The first number 10 is the cold number. This is the oils pour weight, the lower number will help cold start with a easier flowing oil. Better to use a lower number in the winter. The bad part is there is less film strength & cling. So it will fall off of engine parts very easily & not stick like a higher weight. A lower number can cause chatter & valve noise on start up.
The second number is the hot viscosity, so when the engine oil is at operating temp. This give it a greater shear strength.
Does it really matter if you use a 10-40 when the car calls for a 5-30? Not really, in the summer the 10-40 might even work better, but not flow as well in the cold winter. Most quality synthetics flow better then the numbers. Again, it's all in the owners manual.
Now, M1 is no longer a TRUE synthetic oil. It's all G3 base stocks. Gastrol was sued & the US Legal definition of "synthetic" was changed. So now most cheaper syth oils are not full synth. But they are still a quality oil. If you get the "european" formula, it will be a full synth. M1 Diesel oil is a higher grade, & also cost more.
How can you tell when you need to change it? Dirty? NOPE, you can NOT tell by the color of it, well unless it's white, but that is something else. The only real way to know, when your oil needs to be changed is to have it tested. Some cars can safely go 10,000mi, or more.
Filters, OEM is the BEST! They have the check valve, have a rated burst rating, usually have the best filtration & flow rates. That Fram filter is GARBAGE! I have seen them burst on the track, they have a low filtration rate, & clog up quicker. Just by them in bulk online, or find a local Euro parts place with them, Bosh & Male are both OEM, not the ones at Schucks!
What oil do I like? Amsoil, Redline, Lubro-Moly.... On my car, M1 will run 225deg, Amsoil Euro will run 200, that makes me happy. I also get another 40mi out of a tank of gas on Amsoil!
Engine flushes are good, they will help keep the engine clean. If you have a VERY abused engine (25,000 with no oil changes) it can cause problems with clogging oil passages. Most of the time, it's a good thing to do!
In the end, CHANGE the oil, & worry less about what weight, or type, just change it!
http://www.carbibles.com/engineoil_bible.html
http://www.nordicgroup.us/oil.htm
What one to use, what one is the best, can I use X oil? I can only find 5-40 & not 0-40 is that ok?
Sorry, but you can use the internet, there is a WONDERFUL little secret, hidden tool called www.google.com! LEARN IT!
READ THE DAM FAQ's people put time into them, to help the internet, typing, slow challenged people.
YOUR CAR TELLS YOU WHAT OIL TO USE, it's got this thing, called a OWNERS MANUAL, take it out of your glove box & read it! Oh, it's in the car, & your in the house? GET YOUR DAM SHOES ON & GET IT! Augh, your car didn't come with a owner manual? THERE $6 @ the DEALER, GO BUY ONE! Dealer is to far away? GO HERE
http://www.audi.ddsltd.com/cgi-bin/d...C&COMPANY=AUDI Every manual you can ever want.
just some simple oil knowledge........
Synthetic oil & dyno oil are kind of the same, yes, Synth is better, but it's better due to it's molecules all being the same size. This creates less friction, thus less heat, it's also more thermally stable. Most have a higher additive package. You can run either in your engine, it will not blow up, break, or not start. It's actually more important that you change it regularly, then what you put in there. Yea, you will get better MPG, with Synth, but if you use Dyno & change it every 3000mi, you should be just as good as the person using Synth changing it @ 7500mi.
Oh, you have a turbo, then you should be using a synthetic oil. WHY? TURBOs ARE EXPENSIVE! They live with a lot of heat, & only a thin coat of oil, is keeping the turbo spinning. Synth oil will lube it better, keep it cooler & not burn away. Yes, a quality dyno oil will work, but why take the risk?
Your worried about sludge? Well change the dam oil when you should, & don't do a lot of short trips, stop & go, short cold starts, these add to sludge, oh, the quality Synth oil, will help! http://www.synlube.com/sludge.htm
Oil weight.... lets take 10-40w.
The first number 10 is the cold number. This is the oils pour weight, the lower number will help cold start with a easier flowing oil. Better to use a lower number in the winter. The bad part is there is less film strength & cling. So it will fall off of engine parts very easily & not stick like a higher weight. A lower number can cause chatter & valve noise on start up.
The second number is the hot viscosity, so when the engine oil is at operating temp. This give it a greater shear strength.
Does it really matter if you use a 10-40 when the car calls for a 5-30? Not really, in the summer the 10-40 might even work better, but not flow as well in the cold winter. Most quality synthetics flow better then the numbers. Again, it's all in the owners manual.
Now, M1 is no longer a TRUE synthetic oil. It's all G3 base stocks. Gastrol was sued & the US Legal definition of "synthetic" was changed. So now most cheaper syth oils are not full synth. But they are still a quality oil. If you get the "european" formula, it will be a full synth. M1 Diesel oil is a higher grade, & also cost more.
How can you tell when you need to change it? Dirty? NOPE, you can NOT tell by the color of it, well unless it's white, but that is something else. The only real way to know, when your oil needs to be changed is to have it tested. Some cars can safely go 10,000mi, or more.
Filters, OEM is the BEST! They have the check valve, have a rated burst rating, usually have the best filtration & flow rates. That Fram filter is GARBAGE! I have seen them burst on the track, they have a low filtration rate, & clog up quicker. Just by them in bulk online, or find a local Euro parts place with them, Bosh & Male are both OEM, not the ones at Schucks!
What oil do I like? Amsoil, Redline, Lubro-Moly.... On my car, M1 will run 225deg, Amsoil Euro will run 200, that makes me happy. I also get another 40mi out of a tank of gas on Amsoil!
Engine flushes are good, they will help keep the engine clean. If you have a VERY abused engine (25,000 with no oil changes) it can cause problems with clogging oil passages. Most of the time, it's a good thing to do!
In the end, CHANGE the oil, & worry less about what weight, or type, just change it!
http://www.carbibles.com/engineoil_bible.html
http://www.nordicgroup.us/oil.htm
#2
08-24-2007, 01:41 AM
RE: RANT, WTF, why so many dam "what oil should I use?"
The problem is when someone comes on and makes their first post as "What kind of oil/chip/mod/test pipe/bov/dv should I use/get?" and people respond to them and try to make each one of the threads into a legitimate discussion. If more people would just ignore such threads, or do the right thing and tell them to search for obviously beaten to death topics, we wouldn't have so many smacktards posting sh*t like that. Then you have n00blovers like Amze who get pissed off when someone suggests that said n00bs do a little leg work and try to find something on their own.
#3
08-24-2007, 01:11 PM
RE: RANT, WTF, why so many dam "what oil should I use?"
I had same question all time i wanan change my OIL....
I read thru countless and coutnless threads.. i decide to go with 0-40 been working fine for me
I read thru countless and coutnless threads.. i decide to go with 0-40 been working fine for me
#8
08-24-2007, 06:50 PM
RE: RANT, WTF, why so many dam "what oil should I use?"
ORIGINAL: cyberlogicx
The problem is when someone comes on and makes their first post as "What kind of oil/chip/mod/test pipe/bov/dv should I use/get?" and people respond to them and try to make each one of the threads into a legitimate discussion. If more people would just ignore such threads, or do the right thing and tell them to search for obviously beaten to death topics, we wouldn't have so many smacktards posting sh*t like that. Then you have n00blovers like Amze who get pissed off when someone suggests that said n00bs do a little leg work and try to find something on their own.
The problem is when someone comes on and makes their first post as "What kind of oil/chip/mod/test pipe/bov/dv should I use/get?" and people respond to them and try to make each one of the threads into a legitimate discussion. If more people would just ignore such threads, or do the right thing and tell them to search for obviously beaten to death topics, we wouldn't have so many smacktards posting sh*t like that. Then you have n00blovers like Amze who get pissed off when someone suggests that said n00bs do a little leg work and try to find something on their own.
#9
08-24-2007, 06:57 PM
RE: RANT, WTF, why so many dam "what oil should I use?"
2k S4, nice post! This should be stickied somewhere.
Do you happen to know if the 0W-40 Mobil 1 'European Formula' is 100% synthetic? Usually I am a fan of Amsoil, but it is expensive and has to be ordered. That was no prob when I was driving a naturally aspirated Chevy and I'd run it for 25k, but having a turbo now and getting a chip tune eventually, I plan on changing the oil quite often. Mobil 1 is readily available and affordable.
Do you happen to know if the 0W-40 Mobil 1 'European Formula' is 100% synthetic? Usually I am a fan of Amsoil, but it is expensive and has to be ordered. That was no prob when I was driving a naturally aspirated Chevy and I'd run it for 25k, but having a turbo now and getting a chip tune eventually, I plan on changing the oil quite often. Mobil 1 is readily available and affordable.
