JL Audio Experts? HELPP
#1
JL Audio Experts? HELPP
hello guys
well i had a problem about a month ago when my alternateor died on me. I fixed my alternator and did alot of maintenence. The problem now is that my sub amp does not power the sub.
I have a JL A1800 and the green AND red light are on. I think that it is in protection mode becuase of the voltage drop.
No power is being sent to the subwoofer. No sound...
How can i reset the unit? I have opened it up and none of the capacitors or relays are burnt or bad.
What can i do?
thanks
well i had a problem about a month ago when my alternateor died on me. I fixed my alternator and did alot of maintenence. The problem now is that my sub amp does not power the sub.
I have a JL A1800 and the green AND red light are on. I think that it is in protection mode becuase of the voltage drop.
No power is being sent to the subwoofer. No sound...
How can i reset the unit? I have opened it up and none of the capacitors or relays are burnt or bad.
What can i do?
thanks
#2
RE: JL Audio Experts? HELPP
It can sometimes cause it to go into protection mode if the speaker outs are being grounded out somehow.....If not that, I would check to make sure the ground is still well secured to the chassi. In another circumstance I ran into the same problem but with a different kind of amp. Red light....nothing visibly wrong with the circuit board.....the amp was blown that time so hopefully yours is just something else. Most dealers Ive dealt with would test my amp for free, maybe yours will too
#3
RE: JL Audio Experts? HELPP
i am very big into car audio (not a fan of JL but i guess i'll help you ) ok so yes it is in protect mode.. your BESt bet is to do these few things.. first check your voltage with a dmm and if it is under 12, thats not good... ALSO, if it goes under 12 while playing.. say u start at 13 and when it hits it goes to 11 volts this would harm the amp.
if you have the voltage drop you can upgrade your big 3 (i used 1/0 in my old suv for this) but upgrade (do not need to remove stock wiring to do this) pos bat to pos alt, neg batt to chassi and engine block to ground. this will help for voltage drops as well as dimming.
next you will want to test and make sure your sub is not blown... have your dmm on the ohm reader and see how many ohms are showing up on the sub. if it says the sub is 2 ohms and reads 2.. thats good, now push on the DIRECT middle of the sub slowly and softly to push it in (sub must be off!) if the ohm load changes, that means its dead.
another thing to try it to follow all your leads and make sure everything is hooked up correctly. disconnect the amp from the power and let sit for a while.. then reconnect with no sub attached. then turn it off, attach sub and if it goes into protect, you know the sub is at fault.
pm me if you have any more questions..
good luck!
if you have the voltage drop you can upgrade your big 3 (i used 1/0 in my old suv for this) but upgrade (do not need to remove stock wiring to do this) pos bat to pos alt, neg batt to chassi and engine block to ground. this will help for voltage drops as well as dimming.
next you will want to test and make sure your sub is not blown... have your dmm on the ohm reader and see how many ohms are showing up on the sub. if it says the sub is 2 ohms and reads 2.. thats good, now push on the DIRECT middle of the sub slowly and softly to push it in (sub must be off!) if the ohm load changes, that means its dead.
another thing to try it to follow all your leads and make sure everything is hooked up correctly. disconnect the amp from the power and let sit for a while.. then reconnect with no sub attached. then turn it off, attach sub and if it goes into protect, you know the sub is at fault.
pm me if you have any more questions..
good luck!
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11-25-2011 08:36 PM