You may be lucky if it only 2 teeth and no engine codes. If the cam is off too far you get a code, Improbable Cam Position or something like that.....

If you get the cams close to where they should be for the lock bar and set the TDC mark on the pulley to the mark on the cover the lock pin should go in. I check that the hole in the crank is there using a Phillips head screw driver. Stick it through the hole and you should feel the hole in the crank web where the pin locks into the crank. You may have to move the crank a couple of degrees either way to fully engage the pin in the crank.
Get the iBahn Bentley repair manual. It is MS XP only but runs in an XP virtual machine under Windows 7. The Bentley Service manual does not have enough detail if you have to get into the motor.

 

Update. Found the crank lock "hole" got the timing reset with the old belt. My local Autozone did not have a leak down tester and i did not want to wait nor did I want to buy one just for one job. I did a compression test instead thinking that IF compression was good on all cylinders that would likely mean that I did not have a bent valve. IF compression was bad on any cylinders then I would need leak down to find out why. Correct me if I am wrong on this assumption. Results of comprression test....the #1 cylinder is weak. It got about 110psi while the other five all scored about 165psi. I gues i now need to get a leak down and double check it all.

 

a quick check is to put a little oil in the cylinder 1 and check the compression again. If it goes up it rings, if it stays the same it's valves. 165 psi on the other cylinders is good.

 

OK. Ill do that this afternoon.

 

Top ten most boneheaded things to do while testing your compression......
10? 9? 8?... who cares, THE NUMBER ONE most boneheaded thing to do is...drumroll please

leave your cam locking bar in place...one the cams....insert your compression tester into the spark plug hole and....wait for it.....turn the car over with the key breaking the timing belt and very likely bending what used to be good valves. I am now off to go buy a new belt, install that and find how how badly I #$%#%^# myself.

 

I put the crank guard and harmonic balancer back on set the crank locking pin in what I thought was the right place. Installed the new timing belt and then removed all locking devices. Tried to turn the motor over manually and....I meet what feels like "solid" resistance at about 1/4 turn from what I thought was TDC in both directions. I did not force it at all. I am confused for one reason. After a committed the number one most boneheaded move, I was able to turn the crank, with the cam lock in place and no timing belt, almost a full revolution with no resistance at all. Then I encounter resistance after installing the timing belt... not sure why that might be so. I suppose there might be a position or two where the crank could be turned over without hitting a valve as long as the valves are not also moving. Anyway I have no real clue what to do now. My impulse is to just say to hell with it and pull both heads and check them for valve integrity. IF #1 was scoring weak compression due to rings, unlikely in my opinion that one of six would have bad rings, there is not much I could do to fix it short of pulling the motor. Therefore I hope that the compression test I botched, adding oil to the #1 to see if it had ring problems or valve problems would have resulted in confirming valve problems. IF that is the case then my blunder will only result in having to replace more than one valve on a head that already needed to have a valve job done.

I know this is all a mouthfull. Anyway recommendations are welcome as to my best course from here.

 

If you have set the timing correctly and you feel resistance then there are probably bent valves. Before you pull the heads just have another check that the timing is correct.
Removing the heads is a bit of a pain, access is tight at the back of the head.

 

yup, i messed it up. Going to pull the heads now. I guess there are two "bright" sides. First once I get this all done I should have a solid running machine for a while. Second I probably had one bent valve in the beginning anyway so most of this was going to have to happen anyway.

 

If I remember correctly only cylinder #1 has the valves open with the cam lock in place. I would only pull that side first

 

I will but it gets worse. I had no clue the starter was soo powerful. Look at these pictures of the cams.