Ok new plan. Since I don't know what motor is in it I'm going to tow it and have them place a camera in the cylinders to check them out. If they look bad I'm planning on swapping engines. If not, I'll check the valves. I was quoted by a shop where I'm towing my car that they would charge 2200 total for a 113k mile engine and installation. Hopefully it doesn't even have to get to that though.

 

The engine code is on the printed sticker with the VIN located in the spare tire well in the trunk. It will be a 3 letter code along with another 3 letter code for the transmission type.

Good idea on the scope though. If they can see any damage without having to pull the head, the will definitely save some dough and help trouble shoot. If you were closer, I'd help you diagnose it. You may get lucky and it just be come carbon build up on the valve preventing it from closing completely. Not open enough to hit the piston but just enough to prevent any compression. If the fuel air mix will not ignite, it's possible that it hasn't burnt any valves. Simply cleaning the carbon off the valve might fix it. But, the head will have to come off for that to be done....

 

Sorry, I meant I didn't know if this was the original engine or if the previous seller had actually replaced the motor before. He said the unit was replaced 43k miles ago but I'm starting to think he was lying. Unfortunately audi can't tell me, even with a code, if the engine is original. And thanks! I'll post an update with the results Saturday.

 

Boroscope check showed at least 2 burnt exhaust valves. The tech said the cylinders looked like they were still in great shape. They quoted me a high end 3800 for the head work and changing the timing belt since they're in there already. I'm going to calculate what the worst is if I buy all the parts myself and then what the cost is if I can find a used head. I do not want to pay 3800 for this. At the same time, the car is an hour away now and as a full time student I'm really running short on time to work on the car myself. Anyone know where I can find a good used head?

 

You shouldn't need a new head. Just replace the two valves. If the valve seats are not damaged in the head, you should be able to replace the valves. Probably need to hit the seats with a grinding stone (any decent machine shop can do this) just to make sure they're true.

What shop did you take the car to?

 

I'm steering away from replacing the head. It looks like as far as parts go it would cost about $500 for all the parts (if I replaced all the valves) for the head and timing belt service. Hopefully I'll only need to replace the 2 valves but they aren't too expensive on Europaparts fortunately. I took it to MF automotive in Knoxville. They seem to know what they're doing and their manager is being very considerate in trying to save me money. I had a friend driving to Knoxville with his truck and was able to convince him to pull my car on a trailer.

 

I'm certain that you can repair it by just replacing the two burnt valves. If the other valves are fine, there is no need to replace them. The critical thing is valve seats in the head where the two burnt valves lived. If they will clean up with just a couple of hits from seat grinding stone, everything should be fine and you won't have to find another head. I've rebuilt many a head with burnt valves with no issues as long as the seats are not gouged like the valves. The seats are much harder than then valve itself so most of the time they will take the heat with no problem. It is possible to replace the seats in some aluminum heads (and cast iron) but I'm not sure of the possibility of replacing the seats on the Audi heads..

Good luck on getting her going. I know you can do it..

 

After 2 Exhaust valves and a cleaned cylinder head she's up and running! No misfire codes and pressure is great in all cylinders! However I'm now seeing a new problem. The check engine light came back on with a P310B code (Low pressure fuel regulation). I recently filled up my tank from an 8th of a tank and it had a dry start. I had to push the gas to help it get going. After it started it ran fine and has started every time since. Could this be a fuel filter or sensor issue? Maybe bad fuel? This was the first time I filled it. I'll be doing some research either way.

It never ends...

 

Woo hoo! You got her going again.. Great.

The fuel pressure code could be were it may have sucked some air into the system and fuel pressure dropped momentarily. Clear that codes now that you've got her running again and see if it returns. If not, you're good to go. If it does return, I'd start a "fuel pump" savings fund.. ;-)

 

My wife will be thrilled.. haha