So, my A3 Quattro hatch has sounded like a creaking pirate ship for about 4 months.
The sound is definitely coming from the drivers side front wheel well (confirmed by having someone drive the car slowly whilst I listened along side the car).
This sound only occurs at low speeds when turning; pulling in/out of driveway for example.
I have replaced the control arm, tie rod end, ball joint, wheel bearing, sway bar linkage, and the dust boot/bearing on the strut (I have also rotated the tires to make sure that wasn't the issue).
Nothing fixes it.
At this point I want to just drive the car as hard as I can, red line it everywhere, until it throws a piston.
Anyone have a better idea?

 

Could be a front subframe bushing.

 

I believe I have found a fix: . I will attain the bolts described in the video here bolts.
Once the replacement is done, I will report back with results.

 

Looks to me like they're using Torque to Yield bolts on the subframe. I've never understood the full reasoning behind using these types of bolts for anything other than to please the bean counters because you cannot reuse them safely. Those replacement bolts look to be your standard reusable bolt that has served mankind well for the past 100+ years. The idea of "stretching" a fastener has never set well with me or my wallet.

 

So here it is, here is the cause of this crap...
2009 Audi A3 Subframe Creak
As you can see in the first image, the bolt has been warn down so much so it lost a good 2-4mm diameter... Because of this, when I went to tighten it to the 80~ ft/lbs outlined in the above tutorial video it sheered clean off.
I had to use a left-handed drill bit to get it out, even though the threaded end was jiggling around in the socket. Once I did get it out, it roughly measured to around 110 mm in length, with an M12x1.5 diameter/pitch. No auto store/hardware store in my area carries anything remotely as long, so I had to improvise; I found the bolt that is shown in the last image (the image showing the rear control arm connector bolt) that is M12x1.5 and 110mm long here: M12x1.5 110mm. I am going to put it into the socket (shown in the third image) that connects the forward subframe spot above the control arm.
All in all, I am very disappointed in the person(s) responsible for designing this; the subframe holds the engine up and the wheels on, WHY IN GODS NAME WOULD YOU CHEAP OUT ON THIS...

 

This is exactly why I hate this types of bolts.

 

So I replaced the sheered bolt, and its complement on the passenger side; the car still sounds like a pirate ship. All bolts that connect the subframe to the frame have now been replaced and the issue still remains...
Any further assistance/ideas would be greatly appreciated.

 

Check all of the others. Rear subframe too.

 

All bolts connecting the front subframe to the car frame have been replaced and the creaking is most certainly coming from driver side front wheel well (had friend drive while I walked beside the car to confirm).

 

Check the front suspension on that side. One of the control arms or the strut mounts may be creaking.