General Tech Good at troubleshooting? Have a non specific issue? Discuss general tech topics here.

02 audi a4 vacuum lines

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
  #11  
Old 01-29-2016, 07:36 PM
al8429's Avatar
1st Gear
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2016
Posts: 10
Default

Originally Posted by dave944
Much better.. I can see.. LOL I think those are the lines to the windshield washer jets. The electrical is probably the connection for the heating element in the washers jets. Put some juice in the washer reservoir and see if it squirts out of the ends. You'll know for sure then. Once you get them connected, the electrical connection has got to be close. I can't tell much about the third picture though.
I think you may be right. I'll have to look tomorrow. Gonna go to look at another audi that's being parted out and figure out for sure where they go. Will this maybe fix the p0303 code? What other things should I look at in relation to this code?
 
  #12  
Old 01-29-2016, 07:43 PM
dave944's Avatar
2nd Gear
Join Date: Jun 2011
Posts: 1,186
Default

No, the misfire code is another animal. It could be a coil or the spark plug on that cylinder. I recommend putting a new set of plugs in it first. Clear the codes on the ECU and see if it pops up again. But.. While you're putting the plugs in, swap the coil to another cylinder, say number 2 cylinder, if the code P0302 (misfire on cylinder 2) comes up at some point, the misfire is following the coil. So that would indicate the coil is going bad.
 
  #13  
Old 01-29-2016, 10:06 PM
al8429's Avatar
1st Gear
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2016
Posts: 10
Default

Originally Posted by dave944
No, the misfire code is another animal. It could be a coil or the spark plug on that cylinder. I recommend putting a new set of plugs in it first. Clear the codes on the ECU and see if it pops up again. But.. While you're putting the plugs in, swap the coil to another cylinder, say number 2 cylinder, if the code P0302 (misfire on cylinder 2) comes up at some point, the misfire is following the coil. So that would indicate the coil is going bad.
Sounds like a great place to start. I'm gonna drain the gas and put fresh gas in it before I try that. No telling how old the gas is. Thanks alot for help. I really appreciate it.
 
  #14  
Old 01-29-2016, 10:45 PM
dave944's Avatar
2nd Gear
Join Date: Jun 2011
Posts: 1,186
Default

Good idea.. That ethanol crap gas is the worst if you let it sit... Get as much as you can out of the system and add some fuel treatment to it when you do put some back in. Put a new fuel filter on it too. I bet some water comes out of it. If you can get some no-ethanol fuel to put in it while you're working on it, that will help too. Once you get it back on the road, you can run the ethanol gas since it's not going to get a chance to sit around.
 
  #15  
Old 01-29-2016, 11:31 PM
al8429's Avatar
1st Gear
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2016
Posts: 10
Default

Any idea on the best way to drain it? I added a gallon of no ethanol 90 octane. Once I did that it was showing a quarter of a tank. Also put a bit of sea foam in it. I really just want to drain it.
 

Last edited by al8429; 01-29-2016 at 11:34 PM.
  #16  
Old 01-30-2016, 11:04 AM
dave944's Avatar
2nd Gear
Join Date: Jun 2011
Posts: 1,186
Default

Unfortunately there is no real easy way of draining it with the way that these things are made now. The fuel pump is in the tank and there are no supply lines that exit the bottom of the tank. You have to go in through the fuel pump assembly port on the tank. But screw all that, too much work to just drain the gas. Siphoning is out too. You'd never get the crud settled to the bottom siphoning anyway...

What you could do is, since water will settle to the lowest point in the tank, that is where the pick up is, you could disconnect the fuel line at the fuel rail on the engine and secure it into a container to catch the fuel as it comes out. Turning the key on will cause the fuel pump to come on for a few seconds. If you do not try to crank the engine over, the ECU will turn off the fuel pump until it sees the engine turning over. I'd just turn the key on and off a few times, checking to see if there is any gunk in the bottom of the catch can with the fuel. Wait a few minutes between cycles to let any crap that got stirred up in the tank to resettle. Keep doing this until there is no more crap settling to the bottom of the catch can. Once you're done there, put the fuel line back on and see if the car will fire and run. Let it run for 5 or 10 minutes, keeping an eye on things, so the fuel you put in and the Sea Foam (I love that stuff) will mix up well in the tank.

Loosening the fuel line at the rail with a catch can and jumping the fuel pump relay is another option. But you'll have to spend time finding the relay and determining what two terminals to jump. I don't recommend this procedure to anyone that doesn't have experience doing this though. You can drain all the fuel out of the tank this way. However, since you said you've already put more gas and Sea Foam in it, I'd just to the procedure I mentioned above and run just enough gas out to get all the crud (most of it will be water) out..
 
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
al8429
Audi A4
0
01-28-2016 10:49 AM
dsrtdady
All Other Audi Models
0
04-13-2009 05:28 PM
zolman
Classic Audi
0
01-06-2006 11:14 AM
black b5
Audi A4
7
03-23-2005 03:44 PM
jblum
Audi A4
2
02-21-2005 12:39 PM



Quick Reply: 02 audi a4 vacuum lines



All times are GMT -4. The time now is 10:31 PM.