OK.. well i think everyone has idle trouble. I cleaned my ISV.(its almost brand new). all the HOSES, the TB where it hooks to the big ribbed hose that goes to the air mass meter... BUT sometimes my idle still STICKS When going from say 3rd to neutral, the RPMS shoot OVER 3000 somtimes... before going back to normal! Now, I do a newbie question. The crankcase breather tube is hard to put into the air intake hose.. i think that area where the crankcase tube goes into the hose is kinda messed up.. maybe causing leaks. How do you know if you have a vac leak? I know that makes your idle go crazy. Also, is there supposed to be a sound comming from the Air Mass meter area?????? I am asking bec I don't know what a working car sounds like. It sounds like a WHIRRRRRRRRR sound.. or some kind of air sound. Is that normal? Or is something leaking? How could I check for leaks?n Oh yeah, i guess the idle switch connector boot was RESTING on the EXHAUST!! Where the main harness plugs into the idle switch by the TB, the wires were kinda melted, but I just electrial taped them for now. Would it be possible to just splice a new part in instead of putting a new harness in?

Also, my car overheats.. I know the radiator is kinda leaky but its not losing much fluid. I noticed i am missing 2 relays in the fuse box. They are the high speed and low speed relays for the rad. fan. Now, I dunno if i need these or not, bec my bentley covers the 90-91... and I dont even have an A/C.. i just have the manual controls. Now, would having the low speed relays really help with my overheating prob? It starts to over heat when I am just sitting idling.... temp goes to around 90 C and i can smell the anti freeze burning or something.. a little bit of smoke starts to come out through the headlight area. Is it more than the radiator? Is it the waterpump too??? I got my car working enough, but I dont want these probs to plague it for the next 3 years.

My shocks are TOTALLY SHOT.. all 4 thats gonna be expensive to fix too. Its a very bumpy ride heheh.. i think we have some of the worst roads in germany by our house. Many tractors and what not use it so many pot holes, etc.


Those are the 3 main things wrong with the car. I would REALLY like to fix the overheating prob. I got some used relays comming from the states.. any advice would help me out

 

for reving problem, check the throtle body if it stucks.
for ovearheating, find the leaking point then buy some gui stuff (forgot the name) and clug the radiator at that point.
for fans, I do mise like 4 or 3 relays and it sycks, I have no first speed only second.
about the shocks, mine were shot too, it costed me $250 + tax to replace. New gas type not liqued. ride is hard as hell now, sporty a bit.

 

Was 250 for all 4 shocks?? My ride now is TOO STIFF hehhehe...

yeah I did put some stuff into the rad. to help plug leakes.. it doenst help that when you touch some of the foils, that they FALL OUT.. i think its just shot.. and i need to get a new one. Wish me luck bec i need to get the car inspected on base TUESDAY and i hope it passes.. otherwise i will have a car for 6 mths without any plates

I ill check the TB and see if it sticks.. if it does, what can i use to lube it up?

 

I just bought four Boge Turbo Gas shocks for my 91 100Q - $400, KYB's would have been $360. The cooling system on the 100/200 models sucks. You need functioning relay and thermoswitch or a manual switch, otherwise you will be cooking your motor, cracking your expansion tank, radiator and heater core. Been there, done that. Do a search I think I have discussed and beaten this topic to death.

 

no only for 2 in front. rear are easier be even cheaper. I have some company shock I even have no idea. it became stiff and a bit higher.
there are like 4 ways to fix a rad.
1. Stop leak
2. glue stiel stop leak that is put external, it really works.
3. disasemble and fix
4. replace

I changed rad, no problem 1 day work.
PS stop leak that is added into coolant is bad, really bad, thats why I replaced my rad. idiot(s) before me added like a gallon of it.

 

Thanks for the info guys. What kind of radiator is a good brand?? I don't need anything fancy. Yeah I added that Alu powder into the expansion tank to help with the leaks.. Well at least the rad fan works AFTER i shut the engine down. I guess I will need those 2 relays. How hard is it to replace radiator? I guess the housing behind it which holds the fan in comes out too right? Do i need a new thermostat too?

Yeah, Shocks are a definate must but will have to wait. Its hard to find easy crap out here in germany..esp if u don't know the language hehe


I wont add any of that liquid stop leak into the coolant. I figured it would screw something up. 400 bucks for shocks sounds good.., its just getting someone to put them in for me..thats gonna be expensive! Thanks for hte info..


Anyone know about those vac leaks or if there is SUPPOSED to be sounds comming from the air mass meter?? I really dunno if it is normal or not.

 

Stop leak is crap! I had a small pin hole that was a pain to get to and I had to use my 100 for a few days before I would be able to fix it. Going against my better judgment I poured this crap into the expansion tank. It didn't stop the leak. Cleaning and flushing this stuff out was a pain and it gummed everything up. I think only cheep fools use this crap.

I replaced my radiator with a similar OEM, it cost a little bit more but I didn't have any problems with fit and function.

The Boge Turbo Gas are good quality and the ride is firm but not stiff. Changing the front struts is a PITA, if all the other components are still original you will need to replace them. On my 91 100Q they were in a bad shape.

 

to replace the rad I had to empty the AC. did I have to do it, nope. I put a Nissens rad into it. I found it I believe for like 205 buks instead 300. it took me awhile to figure out how to take it out.
easi, just PM or IM and I will try to help you with the rad.
Stop leak is a powder, which is like glue. is it good, NOOOOOOO. can it help, Not really. Previous owner used water in the system becouse of the heater core leaked, so he pured like a ton of it in and added water. What that leaded to is, 50% or more of the rad cluged and car was ovearhating all the time. how did I know why rad was cloged, easi the tube that goes into the expansion tank was always flowing water in even at idle.
When I changed the rad, the top tube does not transfer water until I hit like 3000 RPM.
PS my new rad is full aluminium.
PSS my car still ovearheats only when I stuck in trafic, temp rases to like 95-97 then fans kick directly into second speed cools off to like 92. still have no idea why first speed mising.

 

Yeah, All my shock stuff is OEM still, and the rubber looks kinda bad. After I get my new license plates, i will worry about those.

Sounds like when your temp gets THAT HOT,the HIGH SPEED relay kicks on, which it is supposed to... maybe your are missing the low speed one, or the low speed relay you have is bad.. the low speed one should kick on around 90 deg C.....I am missing BOTH.. the only time my fan comes on is AFTER i turn the engine off and the fan kicks in... I dont have an A/C so that wont be a prob for me. I will IM ya when I get a new rad. I dunno if i want the NISSINS one or more of an OEM one.. it depends on how much they are here
... prob expensive like everything else hehe. At least my heater core seems to be just fine, and the secondary rad too... so maybe when my relays come and i get a new rad.. things will be better

 

ye, Im mising like 3 relays of 5 wire.