Very easy if you've got a rivit gun and can find the pads. I hadn't ever heard of anyone just replacing pads before thanks for the info.

 

you can do it wothout the rivit gun. I did it on my dads work, well I scred it up, I was ONLY 12 years old. any ways, its easy. We used hameer and a metal pin. my dad did them as the OEM did, a pro job.

any way, I can do it for you just get the clutch disk, new pads and rivets +(some extra like couple), ship it to me include returning fee and I will do it for you.
since I was 12 I learnd the secret, DO NOT SMACK THE DISK HARD, SIMPLE TAPING IS ENOUGHT!!!

PS PM or IM or email and I will give you my address.

 

New info. My car had ABS. The donor manual 80 did not. I needed the struts/hubs for those manual axles, but they were already taken from that junk yard car. I got struts/hubs from ANOTHER junk yard 80, except it was an automatic. It had the correct hubs for the manual 80's axles, however IT DID HAVE ABS as well with that "style" of axle. So... those 80 manual non-ABS axles fit in the 80 automatic ABS hubs which are DIFFERENT from my 90 automatic ABS hubs. So in my car now the hubs have the hole for the ABS sensor but the CV joints don't have the notches on them to be read. This means ABS could technically be gotten to work again with only correct "notched" manual transmission axles. But, old ABS is for pussies, and I got my car running again as cheaply as possible.

 

I fooled the park sensor. Matter of 5 wires to connect here and there. Car won't have a clutch switch at all. The pedal assembly is on the same frame in both cars, just a different brake pedal and the manual has a clutch pedal and master cylinder added.

 

what I dont get is why the axles are diferent. most likely the length is but not the actuall granades. See if your old granades will fit onto your new axles.
http://img.replacementautoparts.net/...ne/A1_Axle.jpg
you see the rubber thing is the granades, and the middle one is a stick sort to speak.
I will check axles tommorow, but just a thought.

 

Grrr this #$*&^% automatic starter motor, last thing that needs to come off. Even though its unbolted from the transmission and thats off, there's a stupid bracket behind it that holds it hanging on the engine. Even with the AC compressor off no dice, motor mount & stuff still in the way can't-get-allen-wrench-on-it. It was hard but I got the manual one off in the junk yard, maybe just a little easier.

 

Got my cheap shift ****, turns out it screws right on the stock threads, doesn't use one of those crappy set screws. Sweeeeeet

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...RK%3AMEWN%3AIT

 

All auto parts finally out. I wanna have the mount fabricated by the end of tomorrow, I can have pedals shifter and starter in too. After that it can all go back on when I get the pilot bearing and exhaust gasket from Audi.

 

My custom tranny mount!!!




What a beautiful work of art! All in alluminum, and it's strong. I designed it, a welder in town welded it up for me (since I don't have what I need to weld alluminum). $8 angle iron from Home Depot, $50 to the welder, and he provided the base plate too because the one I had at first was steel. I'm happy, it mounts up perfect (auto tranny mount on subframe to mount on manual tranny). The top piece that mounts on the car is from the stock auto tranny mount. I cut all the rubber off, and since it was alluminum I finished in alluminum.

 

I got the pilot bearing out of the junk yard car (wasn't gonna wait another 10+ days to come in from Germany) Trick to getting old pilot bearings out: Get a bolt almost the size of the bearing's inside diameter. Wrap it with electrical tape untill you can push it in with a snug fit against the bearing. Get a grease gun and pack behind the bearing (maybe up to 1/2 its depth) with grease. Now stick the taped bolt in the hole, start hitting it with a hammer. You gotta have a pretty good seal while still allowing the bolt to go in, but it will force the grease from behind and push out the bearing! Only way to do it those things are in TIGHT.