Well now its one problem after another. I now get her started, there isnt any vacuum leaks, there is new dist cap, rotor, and sparks are new also. It gets spark but runs realllly rough, and sounds like a loud click sound constantly coming from the manifold or whatever you call the place you put oil in. Does not idle at all. Please help!

 

the palce where you put oil in is called the valve cover , under the valve cover there are hydraulic valve lifters and other stuff too, but the lifetrs are making the noise ... and how exactly do you now that there are no vaculm leaks?

 

Because I just spent $400 on new tubing. I also think its running a little rich too. How do you adjust the lean/rich mixture? I was told you have to remove a rivet and use a 3 mm hex to adjust it. Between the Intake boot and the CIS-E III system right? I am also replacing the Temp sensor that is located on the radiator hose because Im not getting a reading on the temp gauge at all. I am also needing to know how to replace the in dash bulbs because I cant see the speedometer or anything at night.

 

Well the noise from the valve cover is the lifters clicking. How is the oil pressure? How long has the car been sitting? I just got my 88 90 (non-quattro) started and am experiencing the same thing, but I have an oil pressure dummy light on. Sounds like a lubrication problem, although this particular engine it seems is notourious for that problem.

 

to adjust the AF mix, you need to adjust the plate in the injector unit. its easier to create a small vacuem leak to get lean that to adjust the unit, couse to adjust you need to remove the unit.

The lifters are anooying I know, the esyest temporayr fix is to use lower viscosity oil and be syntetic. (only works if the lifters stop clicking after car warms up, else you need to replace them [some, but better all, ~30 buks a peace 5cyl * 2 * 30 = 300 bukarues])

the dash, oh ye I remember that. I did not want to buy new balbs couse they where and are expensive, so I bought replacement bulbs, and a paint of red color. spraid them, and soldered them in, now its red, god its so red. [X(] use orange / red better. bulbs where cheaper and they work.

the temp sensor located in the (IN) flow into the radiator holder. release the presure then if posible creates some vacuem. take of the sensor and stick one in that way you be sure to lose min of fluid and easier to work. And its the one between the head and the hose, located in a adapter. Not the one in the rad, couse in the rad is the one thats responsible for the fans.

I believe thats you have 4 cyl or 5 cyl. Couse 6 and 8 cyl is way diferent.

 

if the rivet is still there than the fuel should be right ... adjusting ot corectly is not so simple ... the multi-temp sensor is an issue though ... and also the injectors .... run the car for a while , shut it down, wait 30mins to an 1.5 hours and look inside the cylinders if you see gas in there than alot of your running probs are going to be caused by bad injectors ... signs of bad injectors -> hard start, rough idle, poor running, misfire eaven

 

is the oil dip stick lose?? if it is the engine will run rough it has an O ring seal on the yellow bit

 

first time in my life I hear the car could ran rough becouse of a dipstic. but my life is short so I might not have heard it yet

 

pull the stick out and watch the revs bounce, its required on the UK MOT to test the idle and emissions ( only on the older cars though )

 

I'll try to verify that, peace.