Running the engine hard during break in period
#2
This is one of those classic "Black Science" kind of things. There is no doubt that it is best to take it easy on your engine for the first several hundred if not thousand miles. This used to be much, much more important than it is today, as newer engine components are much more tolerant of heavy use conditions than they used to be.
If you really pushed your engine hard in the first few miles, you may have "slightly" affected the engine but unless you were trying to emulate Speedracer or a Rally Racer, you should be just fine. Just for the record, I will baby mine for the first thousand miles and then 99.9% of the time after that. That 0.1% is the fun part though....
If you really pushed your engine hard in the first few miles, you may have "slightly" affected the engine but unless you were trying to emulate Speedracer or a Rally Racer, you should be just fine. Just for the record, I will baby mine for the first thousand miles and then 99.9% of the time after that. That 0.1% is the fun part though....
#3
Many years of building race ,modified and stock engines for Euro bikes (Ducati MV Agusta etc) more so in the last 12 years have taught me quite a bit of proper running in. Break in how you want the engine to perform for the rest of its life. This being said the first few hundred miles are crucial. You shouldn't flat out drop the hammer from a dead stop or bounce it off the rev limiter but at the same time babying the engine is just as bad. Ive seen guys/ gals baby engines for thousands of miles and then start using synthetic oils (some vehicles come with syn from the factory) and the engine never got a chance to properly break in. Your absolute best bet for a street vehicle you want to be reliable still fun and responsive is to find open roads but with alot of speed/gear changes. Find mountain roads or roads with alot of corners (twisties) and drive all through the rev range within reason no banging off the redline a million times but opening up a little can be good. The worst things to do is lug an engine around (high gear/low revs) especially up hills and drive long distances at one maintained speed. Varying speed for all the people who drive 99% of the time on the freeway can be hard so try and find a backway to take for a while and do not set the cruise control at 70 for a long drive.
#4
The B8 A4 comes with a "gear change" graphic on the DIS. It shows your current gear and then an arrow pointing up or down will appear depending on your driving condition,speed and revs etc. Its aimed at the best engine and fuel performance, follow this for the recommended 1500Kms as suggested in the manual and I think youll do the engine a world of good for years to come.
Its aimed at fuel performance not speed performance but I think following it and not switching it off via the MMI would be a good thing to do.
Its aimed at fuel performance not speed performance but I think following it and not switching it off via the MMI would be a good thing to do.
#5
Does this effect the engine if the engine is run hard during the break in period? I know that it is best to drive conservatively during the break in period. I thought that it was 250 miles but it is actually 1000. Did I do anything horrible to the engine? Will the performance be downgraded?
I do not floor it every chance I get but I have been in the manual mode and had the RPMs at about 6-6.5k. I have also given it full throttle a few times.
Im basically asking did I screw the engine over big time, or just make the engine life not as great?
I do not floor it every chance I get but I have been in the manual mode and had the RPMs at about 6-6.5k. I have also given it full throttle a few times.
Im basically asking did I screw the engine over big time, or just make the engine life not as great?
Last edited by piotrowr; 01-12-2009 at 01:05 PM.
#7
Have you all seen this article? Fairly controversial:
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
#8
Have you all seen this article? Fairly controversial:
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
From the sounds of it GDuran144 has a manual tran? With my auto I can tell you when the car is driven "gently", it never reaches 4000 rpm, typically upshifting in the 3000-3500 range. I would keep it below there until above 1000 or even 5000 if possible. Check with the dealership, not that dealer "always knows best" but they are there for a reason and provide instructions based on what the factory recommends.
Last edited by piotrowr; 01-13-2009 at 12:26 PM.
#10
I would just do what the manual and the dealer recommend to be honest. Dont drive it hard at the moment. If you do what it says in the manual and anything breaks at least the dealer and Audi will be on your side. They can get a whole load of information from the cars OBC when it goes in for a service.
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