Hi All,

The diverter valve in my 2005.5 A4 needs to be replaced - CEL P0299 loss of boost. Had it into the dealership for a few other things and I bought the OEM valve from them but they get enough of my money and I'd like to replace the valve myself. I researched the issue before I brought it in for service and it didn't sound too difficult. I've found a few step-by-step articles which is great since I'm in no way a mechanic - I just want to be able to say I did it

I found this DIY but it's for a B6 - can someone tell me if this will be about the same procedure for my B7?


Diverter Install B6-

-Rating-Easy

-Install time 30-45 Minutes

-Tools-
Jack-to jack up your car.
10mm Wrench-Socket or your liking-to unbolt belly pan
Tin Snips-to cut stock clamps
Needle Nose Pliers-to help remove clamps.
Screwdriver-to tighten new clamps
Flash Light-to locate diverter if needed

1. Jack up the car at the recommend jack point with care not to bend the body seam. Use safe measures to make sure that the car is not going to fall on you.

2. After the car is in the air and it is secured crawl under the car and unscrew the belly pan bolts with the 10mm Wrench. There should be 6 bolts to unscrew near the front of the car. 1 Bolt under the transmission holding the two belly pans together. Also there should be 2 to 3 bolts on the inside of the fender wells. If you need to move the wheels so you can get access to the bolt.

3. After the belly pan is removed and put out of the way crawl back under with your tin snips or your screwdriver. Many people say you can pop the clamps off with a flat-head screwdriver- I personally just snip it off. To find it, first find the radiator. If you are looking up at it, it will be located on the passengers side of the radiator right behind the fan shroud. You should see two hoses with a small valve looking object connecting them. Thats the diverter valve. There should also be a small hose that comes out of the top of the valve.

4. It is a tight area to work in but you can safely pull down on the valve to become able to cut the clamps. They are one time use clamps and will take some time to come off if you are using the screwdriver. Just grab the tin snips if you want to and the clamp. DO NOT CUT THE HOSE. There should be three clamps that you need to remove. The two big hoses and than the small hose. After you have done that install your new diverter in the opposite way making sure you put the small hose on first and tightening the clamp on that one. Next do the big hose that goes back into the engine area and tighten the clamp. Lastly put the bottom hose back on and tighten the clamp.

5.Bolt the belly pan back up and lower the car and go test out your new diverter.

6. After the test drive and making sure everything works. Throw that old diverter out.

--Note--Every 7,500-10,000 miles oil your diverter by removing it and disassembling it and oiling it. The maker of the diverter should have included instructions into doing this procedure. This helps with making sure your diverter does not get stuck.


How about the exact size of the clamps that are R&Red? I've read "2 medium sized clamps, 1 small clamp" on various sites - is that like two #6 clamps and one #4 clamp? I'd like to have everything I need before I jack up the car.


Thanks for any and all advice!

Misty

 

I haven't done this, so I can't comment on clamp sizes, but from what I've seen of other people doing this, the DIY sounds about right.