I am trying to change the oil on my sister's 2005.5 A4 2.0T. I have read the 2.0T oil change guide, but I still can not get the filter off.



I have this filter and the exact same wrench you see in the background. All I am doing is damaging the plastic nut on the end of the filter. What size is that nut? I might just buy a socket. Why would you make such a thing out of plastic?

Any ideas?

 

In an attempt to get leverage I managed to brake off the coolant connection to the overflow tank.



Please tell me how to get this stupid filter off before I destroy the car. I also need to know what the part I broke is called, and where to get it.

PLEASE!

 

Sleepr:

I use a band style filter wrench on mine. I've never had a problem using that method. The fliter housing shouldn't be very tight. Perhaps the last guy over did it, or buggered the threads. I can tell you it can be more difficult to remove when the oil is cold.

Try this. Mine is a 2006 2.0T, and it has a drain at the bottom that is accessed by removing a screw-on cover. Take the cover off and use the handle end of a medium sized screw driver to push up on the metal fitting you will see inside of the drain housing. This proceedure will release any vacuum that might be in the filter housing. CAREFUL, oil will come out when you do this.

Good luck.

 

Thanks so much! I had read the directions telling about draining the filter housing, but I couldn't figure out how to get the oil out. I figured there could be a vacume involved if you don't drain the oil in the filter. I also thought of a band filter wrench, but I didn't want to try anything else after I broke that part.

Can I tap in a brass fitting to replace the hose connection I broke off that connects to the overflow tank?

 

I believe it is a 35MM socket. Because I have a lift in my garage it isn't to big of a problem to remove. It's just a pain to remove the plastic under tray and then drain the filter housing. But after that all I do is use the socket on a 10" extension and ratchet . Comes right off and I just make sure I use a torque wrench when I put it back together. Oh and yes it is a poor design. It's thanks to the eco-nuts who made the change from a spin on to a cartridge type filter.

 

I'm going to try it again tonight. I might run out and get that 35MM socket because I am sure that would make things so much easier.

Using a plastic canister is just stupid. I have not seen such a bad design since the hubcaps on my 1991 Buick LeSabre. It had plastic keyed nuts holding the hubcaps on, and they supplied a metal wrench. I cut those things off. My 2009 SRX has a canister filter, but it is in an all metal casing. You also remove metal screws to get it open. It's much easier.

 

I am pretty sure I used a 30mm socket.

 

I tapped a hole where the part broke and inserted a brass hose fitting. It works well enough. There is a steady drip from around the fitting that can be fixed with more tinkering.

With the coolant system back in place I let the car idle until it was warm. The screwdriver didn't work that well for me on releasing the oil valve in the bottom of the filter. I used a wrench and there she blew. The only 35MM socket I could find was for an axle nut. The socket was too long to fit in the space available over the nut. The belt oil filter wrench worked like a dream.

This part that I broke is a quick disconnect on the radiator hose. Is this part of the hose itself or can you remove it from the hose? I believe the dealer ordered just the part for me. I also need to know the proper bleeding procedure for the cooling system on this car. I have ordered the Hayne's Manual, but it will not be in until next week.

Thanks for all the help.

 

Sorry guys I went out and rechecked the socket. It is 36MM and NOT 35MM. Also here is a thread to the oil change procedure. http://www.audiction.com/audi-mainte...0t-oil-change/

 

Sleepr:

I'll check my manual about the cooling system bleed proceedure when I get home tonight.