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Buying a car with 140k?

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  #11  
Old 02-03-2012, 07:31 AM
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Genuine Audi re-manufactured water pump is $135 from ECS which includes $50 core charge, after market ones can be had for $60-90 if you want to go that route but I dont advise it...
 
  #12  
Old 02-03-2012, 08:01 AM
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Originally Posted by Ericcg82
Genuine Audi re-manufactured water pump is $135 from ECS which includes $50 core charge, after market ones can be had for $60-90 if you want to go that route but I dont advise it...
My bet is there are not a lot of people who own A4's or even people on this site that would change their own WP. Considering you need to remove the front end I'm sure people would pay the dealer the $1000-1200 for the WP/Timing belt job. I use the WP as an example because it is a major job and if it holds out until the 110K timing belt required change you are lucky.
 
  #13  
Old 02-03-2012, 04:26 PM
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Originally Posted by Ericcg82
So if the car comes with all paperwork, receipts, service records, how do you not know what has been done? Bottom line is, 100K or 10K or 500K, german cars all cost the same to fix no matter what your mileage is, the cost of parts doesn't change and anyone who buys one should know the cost of part before buying the car...I don't agree with that statement because I think it is all relative, if I can put 200K on my car before changing a single ball joint and my friend who owns a ford has to change his at 100K say my part cost twice as much is it really that much more expensive? I honestly believe that you get what you pay for and part of what you are paying for is quality parts and engineering. Cheers!
Well I am hella hard on my cars. MY cars are abused considerably as I like my warranty. If I could buy a 50K mile abused car or a 100k mile abused car the choice is easy. Many people buy the high milage cars because they are cheap but do not factor in spending 5k when the camshaft implodes and destroys the head. Luckily mine went under warranty so they next owner got lucky (barely lucky because I was trading it in that month too). If he is not sure on the budjet I say get the cheaper b6 and financially you are in a better place. If money was not important he would not even be looking at 140k mile car.
 
  #14  
Old 02-04-2012, 09:20 AM
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Why would you intentionly abuse something your spent 10s of thousands of dollars on? Warranty or not that just does not make sense to me at all. If the car is abused that bad then it won't make 100k. Anytime you buy a used car (10k, 50k, 100K) you are gambling. Check the car out and have a mechanic check it out is the best you can do. In the end if you really want an Audi then get an Audi.
 
  #15  
Old 02-06-2012, 09:51 AM
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Originally Posted by jagtoes
My wife's car is a 1989 Volvo 740 which we bought new. It has just turned 320K miles. 60K miles is nothing but when you hit 100K on any car you start paying the freight. The difference with the Audi is it has a lot more parts that are subject to wear. Suspension , drive train , turbo's , hub bearings , water pumps , etc. It cost me $35 to replace a water pump in the Volvo and the timing belt every 50K miles cost me $60. What's an A4's WP cost? I wouldn't touch an A4 with 100K miles. Just do the math. Maybe it's my lack of experience but I have only been working on cars for 50+ years and I'm still learing.
so you're just rambling and you have no idea how much an audi water pump costs. you're speculating at best. next time back up your opinions with facts. the difference with the audi is it has alot more superior parts that aren't subject to as much wear as most competitors. i know that from experience. sounds like you don't even have an audi.
 
  #16  
Old 02-06-2012, 09:52 AM
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Originally Posted by jagtoes
I use the WP as an example because it is a major job and if it holds out until the 110K timing belt required change you are lucky.
you're a fool.
 
  #17  
Old 02-06-2012, 12:38 PM
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^ thank you esandes..
 
  #18  
Old 02-06-2012, 01:11 PM
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Originally Posted by rhodes991
Why would you intentionly abuse something your spent 10s of thousands of dollars on? Warranty or not that just does not make sense to me at all. If the car is abused that bad then it won't make 100k. Anytime you buy a used car (10k, 50k, 100K) you are gambling. Check the car out and have a mechanic check it out is the best you can do. In the end if you really want an Audi then get an Audi.
If I have a warranty to 100K and I'm covered, I really don't need to be delicate with the car. I traded my car around 90K after the head work but I was trading that month anyway as thats when my CPO expired. I like to drive pretty hard and hit the track and such. Abuse is relitive as it's not like I did not change the oil. My cars last through my ownership or warranty fixes them. Whoever owns after me, well I'm glad it's not me. That's why I only buy way under a 100k and with a warranty. To each their own but it's a calculated risk.
 
  #19  
Old 02-06-2012, 04:23 PM
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Originally Posted by esandes
you're a fool.

I did have respect for you but apparently your lack of experience has just been demonstrated.
 
  #20  
Old 02-06-2012, 05:02 PM
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Originally Posted by jagtoes
I did have respect for you but apparently your lack of experience has just been demonstrated.
Esandes, you are a bit out of line buddy. I happen to agree 100% on everything Jagtoes has said personally. To call him a fool because he did not quote the price of an Audi water pump is pretty assinine.

Lets just get into facts. 140K is more likey to break or start needing regular maintainence than say a 50K mile car. IF the person is buying the 140k mile car because it barely is fitting their budjet, they need to be prepared for the car to start breaking. Breaking these cars is usually not in budjet and if the budjet is tight it just may be more cost effective to get something lower mileage or different all together.

140k miles, again in my opinion is asking for a major repair soon.
 


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