Have you checked your AC/alternator?

I have a 3 liter with the same problem. I've done the snub mount but no luck.

I think the accessory system has something to do with it. I put my car up on a hoist and listed from underneath while the wife 'drove' the car on the hoist. Something is screaming in the drive system.

Been like that for a year but I haven't gotten around to pulling the front end to check it out.

Mine will sometimes be fine but turn on teh lights or the heated seats and it starts.

I'd love to fix this...already done both axles, tie rods, and the steering rack.

I want to find a place that'll let me buy an alt, AC, etc and take back what is not bad. I'll just run the car with the front end off and will be able to hear exactly which one it is, replace that part and return the rest, no downtime.

 

I took a video of the accessory drive running but not enough detail to see the main pully.

However watch the large amount of movement when she shifts from park to drive/reverse.

I have a poly snub mount I put in the day after I bought the car to try to fix this issue.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jw-tymRCkck

Not bad for an iPhone video.

 

So the vibration at idle is still there. I finally took it again to Audi and they listened and listened. And came up with the solution that I have a tub that isn't cracked but is sucking shut but just a little bit. It blew me outta the water. I haven't had them fix it yet but plan on it shortly. They also wanted to do a complete clean of the injection system which is pretty cheap.

 

I wish I were the first 1.8TQ owner ever to report a non-vibrating engine engine at idle, but alas...

I have EXACTLY the same problem as Horsecrazy describes: the car vibrates when the engine is idle. The vibration can be felt on the wheel, on the seats, on parts of the dashboard, and even if you open the door and place your hand on the frame.

The colder it gets, the worse the problem gets. Back in August, I raised the engine's idle speed from 760 to 830. This solved the problem, but only temporarily. The vibration reappeared a month ago. It's winter now (I'm from Bulgaria), and every time the air temperature gets below 0 C (30 F), the freaking vibration is back. If the engine runs long enough (more than an hour), the vibration subsides and reduces dramatically but never disappears completely.

I already passed thru the "change-the-mounts-maybe-it's-them" scenario. $350 down the drain...

These days I'm taking the car to one of the official dealers here. Let's see what happens. Honestly, I don't have very high hopes, especially after I read thru this nine-page post...

I know that it's not that big of a problem but it's starting to get on my nerves... I mean, come on, this is Audi after all, it certainly should do better than that. The other day I drove a ****ty diesel Renault Clio (a French car) and there were no vibrations whatsoever, smooth as silk... Damn, did I get jealous!!

Horsecrazy, what's your status? Any updates? Did you find the Holy Grail?

 

I'm wondering... Could a malfunctioning flywheel be causing all that?

 

HorseCrazy, I want you to know that there are internal vacuum leaks that can occur with these cars and can really create some idle issues. Some can cause your performance to decrease as others can simply cause your engine to misfire during idle. I've had an idle so rough that my exhaust mufflers and the downpipes would rattle. Not to mention the steering wheel etc. Extremely annoying.

I have 2 things you should give a shot. 1, let's test for an internal vac leak on your breather lines.

Directly underneath your throttle body are 2 lines connected to the throttle body (these lines look really out of place so you can't miss them) that run in the aft direction and then head under the throttle body. While your car is idling in park, pinch off the lower line (both run parallel to each other) and hold it for a few seconds. If there is an internal leak associated with your PCV valve or your bleeder valve, your car will smooth out almost immediately.

I'm finding this to be more and more common as I've experience this myself. TIP: removing the coolant reservoir first will make this much easier to not only see but to access as well. Things will get warm but nothing should be hot enough to actually burn you.

Let's say that this test for you was a total failure... Audi has a specific fuel system cleaner/additive (I'll have to look it up) that will clean all your systems out with 1 to 2 tanks. Its 11-12 bucks a bottle but worth it!


If you have any questions or need help performing this test, message me directly...

 

I forget - did we check the PCV valves and check valves? MY car vibrates a little at 800 RPM idle but I barely notice it. Are you expecting to feel nothing or something?

 

I have read this forum from the beginning to the end hoping that a solution would be in store..... I guess not! I have a 2007 Audi A4 quattro 2.0 ltr. with only 15,000 miles on it. I think it's only had 4 oil changes in the last 3 years. I have taken it to my audi dealer 5 times now and its still under warranty and they can't find anything. I have used the seafoam, I made them change the motormounts, I even complained to Audi since their recall of the coils and made them change them as well. NOTHING still runs rough when I put it in drive at idle. Everything that HorseCrazy has experienced is happening to me. My teeth rattle, my *** vibrates, the dash rattles, and my back window vibrates as well.
I took a client out the other day and he laughed and thanked me for the FREE massage!

If I would of known I would never have bought this car. This vibration is annoying and Audi should be ashamed to be putting out a car like that.

 

Sorry this really hasn't been any help. I would say that more then likely its vacuum related. We still haven't taken the car in...We have learned to live with it. Everyone i know with this car eventually has this problem. But especially with yours being so young and still under warranty I would either keep pressing them or take it to a different dealer.

 

I have an appointment with my dealer to electronically increase the RPM at idle. I did notice while in drive and my foot on the brake that if increase the rpm to about 900 - 1000 it goes away. So we are going to try and set the rpm higher. I will let you know what happens. Hope it works....