perhaps thats the more important question are there any 1.8/2.0 that don't vibrate at idle

 

F it. I have done absolutley everything and I have adapted my idle to 800 which is the highest Vag-Com will let me go.

My idle is perfect in N or P with A/C off. It's the load that causes the Vibration. I reved up engine and figure 850-900should do the trick. I downloaded Lemmiwinks and I'm going to JACKMUP so to speak. lemmiwinks software here: http://www.vwfixx.com/lemmiwinks.exe

The Lemmiwinks program allows you to make changes to the adaptation channels and can be used to tweak the ECU
Past Audi parameters.

Grab hold of your pipes are they shaking? Deep tone?
Is your car fine in N and crappy in D and w/ A/C on?

Then there you go. Lemmiwinks!

 

I ended up using a different program called unisettings.
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=3205069
click on the unisettings screen for the download.
I raised the idle several times and played with it until the muffler tone evened out. I ended up at 880. It still vibrates a tiny bit. I'll never get it all gone, unless I remove the trany and go Flinstones with it.

The next thing I will try to do is get the A/C compreesor to shut off when the engine idle drops below 1100 and that would take a little bit more out. Other than that I would bet most people would never even notice it at this point.

I can always pop it into "N" at the stop light then You would never know it's running.

 

Very impressive now if only I had the vag com. Mine does in fact have a deep tone to the exhaust at times. Mine is the worst when it is cold outside. I can be so random sometimes too. I've kinda thrown my hands up in the air at the whole thing. This winter I may take it into another dealership at that point.

 

If you are at higher miles and have to do your timing belt yet, check out your crank pulley. Maybe the bolt holes are stretched out and its rotating off center or something. Vibrations would travel through the system. Just another idea I got after reading a recent post.

My car does have vibrations at idle (84k) but it's not bad at all. It also seemed to get better after I cleaned my MAF in isopropyl alcohol for 48 hours but I know you tried that already. I also had issues when using colder heat range plugs (BKR7E) in cold weather. I swapped them out to the warmer range (BKR6E) using the same gap (0.28") and it solved that issue.

Also, not sure it's been said yet, but the first 30 seconds at idle the secondary air injection system does its thing to reduce pollution. I would ignore that part of your problem unless you want to remove that whole system (which some have done btw).

Here's a similar thread.

I know you've wanted to solve this a while and am sorry it hasn't been solved yet.

 

I still haven't gotten any closer to a solution. During the summer months i don't drive it nearly as much because i'm working all the time. I did drive it today and the vibration at idle is still there. Its much worse when it is cold outside although I could still feel it today. I really do believe its a vacuum problem. The only hose i've found thats in need of some repair is the one going to the diverter valve from the bottom of the intake manifold. This hose is a hard one to change. I'm also nervous about changing/checking any of the check valves because I don't have to tool to make the clamps right. I like the "bowtie" clamps that audi does but i can't find the tool anywhere online. The hose is a hard one to reach and all also.

 

I thought you replaced all that stuff already?

The DV hoses are easily accessible from underneath the car. Take off the belly pan and undo it @ the DV then just follow it up and undo at the other end. I replaced all of my hose with silicone hose and used color matched zipties to secure it. It works very well. Did you try to throw some duct tape on the worn parts to see if it helps while you shop around?

I know you probably want to reattach this stuff using OEM but you're going to go nuts trying to find some of these tools and items. I took a dremel to my MAF screws instead of continuing to shop for the tool. Use a regular hose clamp for the check valve stuff. They have worked fine anywhere I've put them. Those one-time use things Audi uses are a PITA.

 

yeah no one goes back in with those oem clamps that audi uses, not even the dealerships. I would just use zip ties on any vacuum lines, regular band/screw clamps on anything cooling.

 

this is the best question asked so far. still no answers though...

 

Thanks to shane.trammell for hooking up this link. No more paying out the a$$ for check valves!

http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/var...&cookie_test=1