My DIY S-Line & S4 B6/B7 Lower Door Moulding Fix
#1
My DIY S-Line & S4 B6/B7 Lower Door Moulding Fix
I like to give back every once in awhile. Didn't find anyone who had done this before, so I thought I'd share. If it has been shared, sorry, but I couldn't find anything with google......Photos below.
I noticed that my lower passenger side moulding was sticking out and it bothered me. It seem it's held on by 2 screws and tabs. My tabs weren't broken at all, it was the plastic that attaches to the tabs that had come 'unglued' or 'unhinged' - this will even work if your plastic on the inside of your moulding is cracked or broken if you have all the pieces. So, I went in search of door mouldings. I have an 2005 Ultra-Sport A4 B6.
Now, mind you, they make 3 different kinds of door moldings for the A4 B6/B7s - go figure. The flat, standard one; the S-Line one (mine); and then of course the S4 one, they are ALL different.....Nick's car blog explains it best: Audi A4 & S4 Door Blades – A Complete Guide to B6 / B7 Door Blade Options & Installation ? Nick's Car Blog
I couldn't find any for MY car on ebay (the flat ones are around $60/piece) ONE new one was over $220 for me, unpainted...not happening...
So, here's what I did, and it took me 15 minutes on my kitchen counter (do while your wife isn't home):
Remove door moulding by unscrewing the screw in the front, bottom part of the door and the back bottom of the door. Tap your moulding out with a rubber mallet towards the rear (if yours are broken, it'll fall right off after screws are removed). There's very nice youtube videos on removing it.
Find yourself some smaller FLAT headed self tappers (I found some I use for server installations).
Get yourself a small drill bit.
PRE-Drill as many holes as you think are necessary spaced out evenly (it may seem that it's only rubber below the plastic, but there's actually metal underneath the rubber). If you wanted to add glue as well, don't think it would hurt, but I didn't.
Slowly screw in the self tappers until they grab and are tight. If you over-tighten and strip them, guess you'll need a little bigger self tapper...mine sucked my plastic flush very nicely.
Slide your moulding back on and put the two bottom screws back in and you're done (clean up mess before wife sees it).
Thanks for all the help over the years....and keep it up!!!
I noticed that my lower passenger side moulding was sticking out and it bothered me. It seem it's held on by 2 screws and tabs. My tabs weren't broken at all, it was the plastic that attaches to the tabs that had come 'unglued' or 'unhinged' - this will even work if your plastic on the inside of your moulding is cracked or broken if you have all the pieces. So, I went in search of door mouldings. I have an 2005 Ultra-Sport A4 B6.
Now, mind you, they make 3 different kinds of door moldings for the A4 B6/B7s - go figure. The flat, standard one; the S-Line one (mine); and then of course the S4 one, they are ALL different.....Nick's car blog explains it best: Audi A4 & S4 Door Blades – A Complete Guide to B6 / B7 Door Blade Options & Installation ? Nick's Car Blog
I couldn't find any for MY car on ebay (the flat ones are around $60/piece) ONE new one was over $220 for me, unpainted...not happening...
So, here's what I did, and it took me 15 minutes on my kitchen counter (do while your wife isn't home):
Remove door moulding by unscrewing the screw in the front, bottom part of the door and the back bottom of the door. Tap your moulding out with a rubber mallet towards the rear (if yours are broken, it'll fall right off after screws are removed). There's very nice youtube videos on removing it.
Find yourself some smaller FLAT headed self tappers (I found some I use for server installations).
Get yourself a small drill bit.
PRE-Drill as many holes as you think are necessary spaced out evenly (it may seem that it's only rubber below the plastic, but there's actually metal underneath the rubber). If you wanted to add glue as well, don't think it would hurt, but I didn't.
Slowly screw in the self tappers until they grab and are tight. If you over-tighten and strip them, guess you'll need a little bigger self tapper...mine sucked my plastic flush very nicely.
Slide your moulding back on and put the two bottom screws back in and you're done (clean up mess before wife sees it).
Thanks for all the help over the years....and keep it up!!!
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