clutch installed and here is my review so far
#1
clutch installed and here is my review so far
so i decided to replace my stock clutch because it was on its way out. after some thought i chose to get the ECS RA4 Stage 2 clutch/flywheel upgrade. the Flywheel is ~12 lbs. during the install I noticed there was a scuff mark on the surface the clutch disc mates to. it looks like a machining error because the scuff looks like if you took an angle grinder and skimmed the surface lightly. I had no choice but to install it because I had no time to wait for a replacement.
I installed everything as it should be which I got new install hardware(bolts, seals, and so on) I also changed the clutch slave cylinder push rod that was included with the clutch kit and was noted to be required for the install on B6 models.
the first thing I noticed upon starting up and ready to drive was the extremely low engagement point. the clutch pedal has to be touching the floor in order to shift. I called ECS customer support and their first question was regarding that push rod and i told them it was installed. after that they had no other suggestions. This to me shows poor customer service in that they weren't really looking to further help me with this issue. so this weekend i am going to swap the push rod back out with my oem one and modify the oem rod with a spacer to see if it will help.
the second part of my review regards drivability. ignoring the low engagement issue as i mentioned before, for the most part it is alright. for me, there is less "jerking" during shifts that i was experiencing with the oem dual mass flywheel. this is the first car i have driven with a DMF and i could not stand it. now the rpms drop quicker which is a plus for me and was expected due to the lighter flywheel.
the part that annoys me is the vibration. at low rpm the shudder/vibration is almost unbearable. it literally sounds like something is going to fall off and reverbs in the cabin as well. this is something that was not noted on their site to increase vibration. I was aware that there would be some increase in vibration due to it being a single mass flywheel, but not to this extent. the sound is horrible. I have had cars before with lightened flywheels but none of which experienced the vibration such like this. I am wondering if theres a way to help reduce the vibration?
it does feel as though the car accelerates a little bit quicker, but i can't comment on any spiritual driving because i am still breaking in the clutch.
please keep in mind that this post is in no way to "bash" or degrade ECS, its just my personal experience with this product.
I installed everything as it should be which I got new install hardware(bolts, seals, and so on) I also changed the clutch slave cylinder push rod that was included with the clutch kit and was noted to be required for the install on B6 models.
the first thing I noticed upon starting up and ready to drive was the extremely low engagement point. the clutch pedal has to be touching the floor in order to shift. I called ECS customer support and their first question was regarding that push rod and i told them it was installed. after that they had no other suggestions. This to me shows poor customer service in that they weren't really looking to further help me with this issue. so this weekend i am going to swap the push rod back out with my oem one and modify the oem rod with a spacer to see if it will help.
the second part of my review regards drivability. ignoring the low engagement issue as i mentioned before, for the most part it is alright. for me, there is less "jerking" during shifts that i was experiencing with the oem dual mass flywheel. this is the first car i have driven with a DMF and i could not stand it. now the rpms drop quicker which is a plus for me and was expected due to the lighter flywheel.
the part that annoys me is the vibration. at low rpm the shudder/vibration is almost unbearable. it literally sounds like something is going to fall off and reverbs in the cabin as well. this is something that was not noted on their site to increase vibration. I was aware that there would be some increase in vibration due to it being a single mass flywheel, but not to this extent. the sound is horrible. I have had cars before with lightened flywheels but none of which experienced the vibration such like this. I am wondering if theres a way to help reduce the vibration?
it does feel as though the car accelerates a little bit quicker, but i can't comment on any spiritual driving because i am still breaking in the clutch.
please keep in mind that this post is in no way to "bash" or degrade ECS, its just my personal experience with this product.
Last edited by tofast2belast; 03-14-2013 at 07:06 AM.
#2
When you installed the kit did it come with a thin spacer that has the same bolt pattern as the flywheel? Some people think it is a torque plate when it is actually a spacer that goes on the back side of the flywheel between it and the crank flange. This is used to offset an incorrect stack height which might be why you are having such a low engagement point since the slave is not pushing the fingers down far enough which is also another reason they give a longer slave rod. You can try making a slightly longer slave rod then the one ECS gave you with the kit, this will push the cylinder in the slave body further back allowing you a longer travel. But you have to watch out, if you make the rod too long it can end up putting too much pressure on the fingers and decreasing the clamping load on the disk.
That flywheel is made in china and then machined down, most likely had a flaw on it after it got to the states and they had to grind it down.
When do you get the vibration? During idle, driving or all the time? There shouldn't be that much vibration, maybe a little when driving at very low rpms but not to the point that it would bother you. If there is that much vibration the flywheel might be unbalanced.
That flywheel is made in china and then machined down, most likely had a flaw on it after it got to the states and they had to grind it down.
When do you get the vibration? During idle, driving or all the time? There shouldn't be that much vibration, maybe a little when driving at very low rpms but not to the point that it would bother you. If there is that much vibration the flywheel might be unbalanced.
Last edited by Mike-2ptzero; 03-14-2013 at 12:27 PM.
#3
When you installed the kit did it come with a thin spacer that has the same bolt pattern as the flywheel? Some people think it is a torque plate when it is actually a spacer that goes on the back side of the flywheel between it and the crank flange. This is used to offset an incorrect stack height which might be why you are having such a low engagement point since the slave is not pushing the fingers down far enough which is also another reason they give a longer slave rod. You can try making a slightly longer slave rod then the one ECS gave you with the kit, this will push the cylinder in the slave body further back allowing you a longer travel. But you have to watch out, if you make the rod too long it can end up putting too much pressure on the fingers and decreasing the clamping load on the disk.
That flywheel is made in china and then machined down, most likely had a flaw on it after it got to the states and they had to grind it down.
When do you get the vibration? During idle, driving or all the time? There shouldn't be that much vibration, maybe a little when driving at very low rpms but not to the point that it would bother you. If there is that much vibration the flywheel might be unbalanced.
That flywheel is made in china and then machined down, most likely had a flaw on it after it got to the states and they had to grind it down.
When do you get the vibration? During idle, driving or all the time? There shouldn't be that much vibration, maybe a little when driving at very low rpms but not to the point that it would bother you. If there is that much vibration the flywheel might be unbalanced.
yeah i was thinking of using the OEM push rod with a spacer in it to see if it would help. this is assuming of course the plastic caps are removable.
the vibration occurs from 1500-2800 rpm range while under load.
#4
yes i did install the shim plate thing, but to my understanding that was for offsetting the flywheel because in the earlier days people were having issues with starter grind?
yeah i was thinking of using the OEM push rod with a spacer in it to see if it would help. this is assuming of course the plastic caps are removable.
the vibration occurs from 1500-2800 rpm range while under load.
yeah i was thinking of using the OEM push rod with a spacer in it to see if it would help. this is assuming of course the plastic caps are removable.
the vibration occurs from 1500-2800 rpm range while under load.
#5
also i noticed the transmission mount is pretty sloppy. i mean if you shake it it moves side to side like if you hold a spring and shake it side to side.
#6
I cant speak for the noise you are hearing but as for the vibration you are getting is because of course now your crank assembly isn't weighted and balanced properly. You can get a fluidampner crankshaft pulley for around $400 and it will reduce drive line chatter and vibrations
#7
ok so what i am going to try is loosen the cross member and transmission mount. then i am going to hand tighten the mount and start car to let idle. while its idling im going to tighten the transmission mount, then the crossmember bolts.
#9
Ok so I loosened and re tightened them while car was idling(didn't get to do snub mount), the vibration/noise is still there but sounds less like gear grinding. while doing the timing belt I noticed one of the engine mounts is leaking the fluid. So that's next to replace and hopefully it will help more with the vibration as well.
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