i had the same color sludge when i cleaned my throttle body. if you have the time i would check it out. take the intake pipe off and peak inside the tb. Once you get the intake pipe off its much easier to do the coolant temp sensor as it is right there. ECS has the square one you need, its going to be blue on the site but it will be green when you get it. Wont be a problem.

 

I've looked through all of the bookmarks I saved and done some searching, but haven't come across that post about using heater hose. If it turns up I'll certainly post it here.

As I recall he just cut off the old corrugated stuff so that the ends could be reused and then used 19mm 3/4" heater hose from the parts store.

 

For the breather hose "fix" I ended up getting some washing machine hose from Lowes, it was the only thing I could find wide enough to fit the valve cover end that was rated for high temperatures. Other than that I just used hose clamps on it. Kinda looks like **** though lol

Edit: changed a word for clarity

 

Heater hose works, or you could just run a filter n the end. Keeps the crap from going into the intake

 

My hoses are broken in several places also. I was wondering if you could just put a filter on it. That's what was on the valve covers of the 350 V8 I had. Does anyone know if that would throw some codes? I don't think it would pass emission tests but that's not a concern here in Ohio.

 

You can:

Replace the hose
Get bigger hose and reconnect the oe hose
Get new hose and run it to the ground
Put a filter on the valve cover

I've done the last three on my TT in that order. All work.

 

Found some links that can be very helpful when dealing with the breather hose system. This link has a very good diagram on where all of the hoses go. This is an explanation of how the system works. It also has a few methods for testing your suction jet pump. And this is a guide for replacing the plastic hoses with rubber hoses. Although, when replacing with rubber hoses I would suggest using clamps instead of zip-ties. Another good idea I read somewhere is to get a vented oil cap. So if your breather hose system gets clogged or stops working, the pressure will vent through the oil cap instead of blowing out gaskets and causing oil leaks. ECS has them here. I'm not sure if the original oil caps were vented. Mine's broken so I'm getting a new one anyway.

 

That diagram of yours in the first link is great; thanks.

 

I am new to this old thread, just now stumbled upon it. I too had replaced my vent hose with a rubber hose a few years ago, although my 12 valve engine (AFC) has a vent hose crossing the rear from one valve cove to the other and this is the one I replaced.

Several years ago when I had my 1997 A4 B5 at the Audi dealer a fault code came up that my PCV valve had failed. When they attempted to replace it discovered that the port in the intake manifold where the PCV valve is mounted was hopelessly plugged. The wanted $2000 to repair it! Said that it would involve removing the intake manifold to clear the plug.

I have just ignored this problem now for years and, after reading through this thread, am realizing why I have had so many oil leaks to repair. I suppose that I had better buckle down and figure out how to remove that manifold.

If anyone has a favorite link on how to do this I would so appreciate it!

 

Well, embarrassing as it is, I apparently don't have a PCV valve on my AFC engine. How weird. Couldn't even find a reference to it in either my Bentley Manual nor in my Haynes. Just now removed my engine cover and poked around with an inspection mirror but could not find a PCV valve or a jet pump. I should know these things, right? There is only the vent tubing running from the left and right valve cover, meeting in the middle at the throttle housing.

What could the fault code that was generated at the dealer have been? I somehow must have misunderstood.

The next time that I have my car in the shop I will ask. Sorry to bother everyone.