Pulled the codes from my recently purchased 1997 Audi A4 1.8T Quattro, Automatic, 168k...

P0300
P0301
P0302
P0304
P0741
P1128
P1136

Where would you start? Suggestions?

Thanks
Dean

 

P0300 is multiple misfires IIRC. Has your check engine light been flashing? Feel like its misfiring? P0301 through P0304 specify which cylinder is misfiring.

Because you're getting misfires on multiple cylinders your ignition control module is most likely shot. If you were only misfiring on one cylinder you could swap the packs around and see if the misfire follows it.

Don't know any of the other codes off the top of my head.

 

First thing you always want to do with multiple codes like this, is clear them all and see which ones come back. I pulled 11 codes after I installed my catch can, turns out only two of them were actually current.

That said, I agree with Lukas' diagnosis on the ICM. P0300 is multiple random misfires, and P0301-304 refer to misfires in cylinders 1-4, respectively. If you AREN'T seeing a flashing CEL, its very likely that the misfire codes are old and were just never properly cleared. A lot of people who don't have access to VAG Com or a scan tool will just disconnect their battery to get rid of a CEL. While this does make the light go away, it doesn't remove the code from the ECU memory. So the next time you get a CEL, all the latent codes come back with it. As for the other codes:

P0741 is "Torque converter clutch circuit performance or stuck off", unfortunately this usually means your tq. converter is on it's way out.

P1128 is fuel trim bank 1 system too lean. This one can be a pain in the *** to track down because its a bit vague. A lean condition can be caused by a bad O2 sensor (or two), bad MAF, bad FPR, bad injector(s), etc. How does your car run at idle? A bouncing idle would point to a faulty primary (pre-cat) O2 sensor. If it runs ok at idle but shitty at higher RPMs, could be your MAF. If that's the case, try unplugging the MAF and see if it runs better.

P1136 is another lean code, i *believe* for the primary O2 sensor. This would be another indicator that your pre-cat sensor is on it's way out.

But like I said, before you do anything else, clear the codes and see which ones come back. And make sure you use a proper scan tool or VAG Com!

 

Well, the car barely ran just after resetting the codes.
The car is currently sitting in my garage unable to run at all. It starts, runs for a couple seconds and dies. No codes set other than the P0741 TC Code.

I'm really at a loss. I am starting to think it is the fuel pump or filter? I will unplug the MAF and see what that does. Prior owner stated he replaced MAF in past couple months but at this point he's dead to me for selling me a car that logged a grand total of 62 miles...

Does anybody know the readings I should get on pins with the Ignition Control Module?

 

You could try unplugging the MAF but it sounds to me like it won't help all that much. Can't help you with the ICM voltages, though let me look through my PDF's tomorrow morning when I get to work, it *might* be in there

 

Same results with unplugging the MAF.

Grabbed a can of starting fluid and shot in to intake as my wife turned the key and the car started right up and ran. So I ordered a new fuel pump, had the mrs. pick up a new fuel filter and asked my brother to bring over his fuel injector cleaning tool kit.

Fuel filter appears to be attached to side of fuel tank. Guessing I need to unstrap the tank and drop to gain access. It appears to have never been touched. I'm still betting on the fuel pump itself has failed.

I'm hoping this will solve the 'no running' issue.

 

Replacing fuel filter: http://www.audiworld.com/tech/eng49.shtml

Replacing fuel injector gaskets: http://www.audiworld.com/tech/eng94.shtml

Didn't quickly find a writeup for replacing the fuel pump.

 

Thanks for the links!

Recommends replacing fuel filter every 15k miles.
This one has 168k and looks like it may still have the original on it?!
Guessing I won't be able to blow thru it...

Got one handy for fuel pump?

 

15k is absurd, 30-60k if you're paranoid. But the vast majority of cars are pushing 100k on the original filter without problems. Changing my fuel filter is on my to do list, just haven't got around to it, and I'm at 127k.

And please don't put your mouth on the fuel filter , blowing through it does not give you any indication of how clogged it is.

You'll have to search for one, I couldn't find one with the brisk search I did.

 

Fuel filter replaced and still got nothing but start-up and dies within a couple seconds.

Couple more questions:

Which relay is the fuel pump in the 1997 Audi A4 Quattro 1.8t? And how do I gain access?

And would somebody mind telling me what the voltages should be at the plug going in to the fuel pump? It appears I am not the 1st person to attempt to look at fuel pump as the lid is off and screws are nowhere to be found. OEM crush rings are still on hoses going in/out of pump so it's original as well...

I had the lovely mrs. turn the key as I was laying next to the access hole to pump and I heard/felt nothing at the pump. I assume I should hear a humming and or click?

Thanks again
Dean