Went from confused to baffled
#1
Went from confused to baffled
So me and Evo Boy split the deposit of a built 87 GT Fox. We got it down to $4200 and all seemed good.
Details on the car:
1987 Mustang GT
carburated 302 Motor just built less than 1,000 miles
100 shot nitrous kit w/ purge and bottle warmer
edlebrock performer intake
Holley 650 DP carb
AFR 165 heads w/ 1.6 roller rockers
ARP head studs and Main Girdle
AFM N41 cams
BBK headers toH pipe to flowmasters dumped before rear axle
8.8 rear with moser 33's and 4:10 gears, c-clip eliminator and rear diff girdle
26x12.5x15 Mickey Thompson ET's on Weld 5 star rims
MSD ignition
Holley Blue pump with sumped tank
Battery relocated to trunk w/ On & Off switch
Battle boxes and Subframe Connectors (welded in)
Solid Motor Mounts, No AC or Power Steering
Liberty Gears Pro-Shifted T5 trans w/ 5th gear removed for track (New just built less than 100 miles on it)
Line lock and 2-step
Aluminum radiator with electric fan
Bumper removal kit for weight reduction
Car is blue with black interior, have an extra set of door panels and a brand new pair of slicks (26x10.5).
So we went and looked at it tonight, it was pretty clean for an 87, and definitely track ready, just needs a cage. Def a low 12's or high 11's car on motor and well into the 10's on bottle. BUT, we got home and found the same year car with a nice build and already turbo'd making 437rwhp and 607rwtq. No slicks, needs a cage and a decent amount of supporting mods to really run the car right. Only $1000 more, but not a complete turbo build. We have until 10am to decide and either get some of our deposit back and go with the turbo, or just stick with the track bottle car.
Advice/suggestions please.
Details on the car:
1987 Mustang GT
carburated 302 Motor just built less than 1,000 miles
100 shot nitrous kit w/ purge and bottle warmer
edlebrock performer intake
Holley 650 DP carb
AFR 165 heads w/ 1.6 roller rockers
ARP head studs and Main Girdle
AFM N41 cams
BBK headers toH pipe to flowmasters dumped before rear axle
8.8 rear with moser 33's and 4:10 gears, c-clip eliminator and rear diff girdle
26x12.5x15 Mickey Thompson ET's on Weld 5 star rims
MSD ignition
Holley Blue pump with sumped tank
Battery relocated to trunk w/ On & Off switch
Battle boxes and Subframe Connectors (welded in)
Solid Motor Mounts, No AC or Power Steering
Liberty Gears Pro-Shifted T5 trans w/ 5th gear removed for track (New just built less than 100 miles on it)
Line lock and 2-step
Aluminum radiator with electric fan
Bumper removal kit for weight reduction
Car is blue with black interior, have an extra set of door panels and a brand new pair of slicks (26x10.5).
So we went and looked at it tonight, it was pretty clean for an 87, and definitely track ready, just needs a cage. Def a low 12's or high 11's car on motor and well into the 10's on bottle. BUT, we got home and found the same year car with a nice build and already turbo'd making 437rwhp and 607rwtq. No slicks, needs a cage and a decent amount of supporting mods to really run the car right. Only $1000 more, but not a complete turbo build. We have until 10am to decide and either get some of our deposit back and go with the turbo, or just stick with the track bottle car.
Advice/suggestions please.
#2
Im "evo boy", used to be a member of this site before I grew up and realized Evo's are the way to go and Audi's are just cute lol.
The one we put the deposit on, seems to be done right and looks to be the better choice right now. It was definitely a thought out build and much more track ready. The turbo car sounds very "pieced together" just to be a "turbo stang". It seems like we will have to dump the same amount of money into either one to be setup for the goal we want, but the turbo one seems like more of a timebomb and needs some fixing and building to run optimal. The point we are at now, is do we want to spend the time and money to get an already built car to a higher potential, or redo a car that has been built somewhat foolishly and takeon someone elses headache. Keep in mind that these cars are extremely cheap and easy to build, but you guys can see our dilemma.
I know this is the most backwards forum to ask these questions, but we could use a lil insight. All motor with a lil spray vs turbo 5.0?????
BTW the turbo is off a 7.3L F-350 diesel.
The one we put the deposit on, seems to be done right and looks to be the better choice right now. It was definitely a thought out build and much more track ready. The turbo car sounds very "pieced together" just to be a "turbo stang". It seems like we will have to dump the same amount of money into either one to be setup for the goal we want, but the turbo one seems like more of a timebomb and needs some fixing and building to run optimal. The point we are at now, is do we want to spend the time and money to get an already built car to a higher potential, or redo a car that has been built somewhat foolishly and takeon someone elses headache. Keep in mind that these cars are extremely cheap and easy to build, but you guys can see our dilemma.
I know this is the most backwards forum to ask these questions, but we could use a lil insight. All motor with a lil spray vs turbo 5.0?????
BTW the turbo is off a 7.3L F-350 diesel.
#4
A boosted 5.0, especially turbo, is a wicked car. I agree with Erik though - if it's questionable, stick with the sprayed car. You said the turbo car needs a decent amount of investment still to fully realize what it can do. That's based on inspecting the car. It may turn out that corners were cut and that investment would then grow. Could happen on either car but the nitrous car has a thorough list of proper work to support its setup. I'd go that route.
#5
Well you could always put a turbo on the bottle car.
You only need a roll bar if you plan on running 10's and lower then 135 mph traps. Dont need a roll cage till 135+ or running 9.9's and the cage will have to be NHRA certified. Plus to run 135+ mph you will also need to get a NHRA Lic. Also make sure the car has a oil catch pan under the motor and a driveshaft loop.
You only need a roll bar if you plan on running 10's and lower then 135 mph traps. Dont need a roll cage till 135+ or running 9.9's and the cage will have to be NHRA certified. Plus to run 135+ mph you will also need to get a NHRA Lic. Also make sure the car has a oil catch pan under the motor and a driveshaft loop.
#7
So we picked up the bottle car, pretty happy with it so far. The turbod one turned out to be even crappier done than we originally thought. Time to rip in to her and get it perfect. heres a pic.
#8
Well you could always put a turbo on the bottle car.
You only need a roll bar if you plan on running 10's and lower then 135 mph traps. Dont need a roll cage till 135+ or running 9.9's and the cage will have to be NHRA certified. Plus to run 135+ mph you will also need to get a NHRA Lic. Also make sure the car has a oil catch pan under the motor and a driveshaft loop.
You only need a roll bar if you plan on running 10's and lower then 135 mph traps. Dont need a roll cage till 135+ or running 9.9's and the cage will have to be NHRA certified. Plus to run 135+ mph you will also need to get a NHRA Lic. Also make sure the car has a oil catch pan under the motor and a driveshaft loop.