tryin to figure out all my problems with my 98 a4 b5 1.8t
#21
FCP Groton is a company and everything I've seen on here has supported them. I don't know how much their bearings are, but i've dealt with www.germanautoparts.com for them. Less than $50 and great service. Check them out too.
#22
I have, though I only have 1 bad bearing, I'm looking to replace all 4 of them just to get it all over with (I hear/know these cars go through bearings like pop-corn). So I'm trying to save some money if I can be sure that I wont be buying into some cheap underqualified parts. Same thing for the CVs, I want to go ahead and replace all 4 outers and all 4 inners. Which leads me to ask, would you recommend doing this?
I kind of want to throw a bunch of money now instead of a bunch+ of money over time. I have a friend saying that I should just go ahead and replace the entire driveaxles instead of just the CVs, what do you think?
(Sorry for jacking the thread, fumoazul99)
I kind of want to throw a bunch of money now instead of a bunch+ of money over time. I have a friend saying that I should just go ahead and replace the entire driveaxles instead of just the CVs, what do you think?
(Sorry for jacking the thread, fumoazul99)
#23
Inner CVs rarely fail because their range of motion is far less than that of outer joints, so you'd pretty much be wasting money. Don't replace the axles, replace the joints - there are documented problems with the non-OEM replacement axles on the maker ( search my old posts or search "axles" and you'll find them). OEM axles cost as much as a kidney and the shafts and inner CVs are very likely to be fine. Just change the pair of outer fronts if you're inclined to do the work or if they're bad, but I wouldn't do it unless you have noise from them or you have rips in the boots. Hold onto your money - you'll have enough opportunities to spend it on repairs in the future. Ditto for wheel bearings - change them when they go bad, or maybe in pairs. Parts and labor you're probably looking at $250 per corner. That's a lot to spend if it doesn't have to be done.
#24
Thanks for all the info, ImTheDevil.
I do have a bad bearing and a bad CV... My rear right wheel makes a kind of metal rubbing noise when driven, it also gets louder momentarily if I go through a rough patch of road, the closest thing I can associate to this sound is that of "raspy breathing", the sound also increases in tempo as the car goes faster. I'm inclined to think it's the bearing but I'm not 100% sure, what do you think?
My front driver's CV boot is ripped and my car often clunks when coming out of a stop or coming to a stop. I am not sure how long it has been like this so I'm just gonna rebuild the thing instead of replacing the boot. Am I correct in this? Better safe than sorry kind of approach.
Thank you again.
I do have a bad bearing and a bad CV... My rear right wheel makes a kind of metal rubbing noise when driven, it also gets louder momentarily if I go through a rough patch of road, the closest thing I can associate to this sound is that of "raspy breathing", the sound also increases in tempo as the car goes faster. I'm inclined to think it's the bearing but I'm not 100% sure, what do you think?
My front driver's CV boot is ripped and my car often clunks when coming out of a stop or coming to a stop. I am not sure how long it has been like this so I'm just gonna rebuild the thing instead of replacing the boot. Am I correct in this? Better safe than sorry kind of approach.
Thank you again.
#25
Like i said before. IMTHEDEVIL is the Effin man... he has a lot of good knowledge and he isnt scared to use it.... alot more people here should be like you...
btw Im buyin the outter cv's from FCP on friday and prob gona get it fixed the weekend after that if the parts come in
btw Im buyin the outter cv's from FCP on friday and prob gona get it fixed the weekend after that if the parts come in
#26
duderseb... that "raspy breathing" that ur talkin about is most likely the bearing... i would get it fixed as soon as u can cause i drove on my till it sounded like metal grindin and the mechanic said it is very dangerous to drive on that... he said the wheel could lock up... imagine if that happens at highway speeds... ouch
#27
why does the cv's that fcp sells only work with the 2.8? it doesnt saying anything about 1.8t's?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Audi-...Q5fAccessories
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Audi-...Q5fAccessories
#28
So the general concensus is the FCP is a reliable company, because I need control arms and CV joints. By far, they look to be the least expensive, so with a good thumbs up from the knowledgable people, and those are the ones I'll probably buy.
But like fumoazul99 said, why does it only list the 2.8?
But like fumoazul99 said, why does it only list the 2.8?
#29
It may be that the joints are interchangeable between models, with the difference in the axles being at the inner CV instead. Best bet is to call them or email them and find out if they have a separate listing for the 1.8T.