My Audi is a 2000 A4 Quattro Automatic Transmission with Tiptronic. Roughly about 160,000 miles.

I am changing my transmissions fluid and filter and just had a few questions before I got started.

1. Do I have to use a special pump (VAG 1924)? Blauparts includes a knockoff one in their kit but I know it doesn't have a temperature gauge or a heating mechanism. Does the fluid need to be heated as I'm filling it back up?

2. What size is the special tool I need for unscrewing the filler plug? Where can I find one of these?

3. What is the manufacture torque specs for the screws when replacing the filter and for the screws to put the pan back in place?

4. How will I know I have filled it with enough oil? The kits comes with 6 quarts.

5. Do I need to shift into each gear for 10 seconds after each quart of oil or just when I have put all of them in?

I think that is it for now. Thank you and I hope to get some good responses soon!

 

I have the same car with the 2.8 motor.

I believe the engine and transmission oil pans require you to remove all the fasteners and replace the old worn gaskets. The fastener torque spec is 10 nm I believe.. that's what I did. If you remove your transmission oil pan, replace the oil filter in the tranny.

I forgot how it is on the tranny but I remember there are two M17 hex bolts on the differentials. One is to drain, one is to fill.

Then, you need one of those pumps, or you can make your own. You just have to be able to pump out the oil fluid and pump in the new. When you pump in the new fluid, pump ALL six quarts in. You will notice that when you get to a point, the fluid will start pouring back out a little. Let it be. The fluid excess fluid pouring out isn't needed? How do I know? If you keep all that excess fluid in there, it will foul your seals. Happened to me once on the rear differential. Had to drain some fluid cause it destroyed the right axle seal.

ONLY USE CERTIFIED ATF FOR YOUR TRANSMISSION.

Pentozin CH11 is used for your power steering, its mineral oil.

75W90 gear oil is used for the differentials (front, center and rear)

G12 coolant for your rad system.

5W40 Synthetic for your motor. I have used 10W30 Synthetic with no problems also.

Oh and change your fuel filter if you haven't already. At that mileage, you don't want a dirty filter stopping you from driving.

 

I'm not doing an engine oil change. Just a tranny fluid change and replacing the filters.

I have to pump the old fluid out? I thought there was a drain plug I just unscrewed with an allen wrench.
There is only one hex bolt on the tranny to fill it back up with oil. I need to know what size.

Also are there any other special tool I will need to complete this job?

 

I don't remember precisely but if there is only one plug, you have to unscrew it and let the fluid drain. I would go as far as pumping out the old fluid and then pumping in fresh fluid. Let the fresh excess fluid drain till it stops. Then you screw that plug back in.

 

I did mine the way ZF says to do it, and used a cheap outdoor thermometer to snake in the fill plug and take the temp of the fluid.

That trans holds about 10 Qt's, including the torque converter. If you just pull the drain plug, all the fluid in the t-converter will stay in the t-converter, and some will also stay in the pump and other areas. Hence the 6 Qt. fill kit.

Proper filling of that trans requires that the temp of the fluid be between 35 C and 45 C, and all sorts of other messy complications. But fill level is very important. So if I was you, I'd take care to measure exactly how much fluid drains out, then replace with exactly the same amount. You might have to put one end of the car up on ramps to tilt the car and trans back to get room so it doesn't run back out, but keep in mind that once you start that car and get it in gear, lots of that fluid will be out of the pan and up in the trans.

You want the proper amount of fluid.

To read far more about that trans, see this link.

http://www.zf.com/media/media/docume...s/5HP19FLA.pdf

 

Oh, no need for a special pump. Most auto parts store sell a little hand pump that will screw right on to the ATF fluid bottles. Then get a cheap plastic hose from a hardware store that will fit over the end of that and snake it up into the trans.

 

The thermometer method could work, however practically speaking, if the pan isn't too hot to hold you hand on, the fluid temp is close enough. I check it with VAG-COM, but it has always been within range by the time the filling is done.

Measuring how much comes out is the wrong approach, because the level could have been too low to begin with. Also, tilting the car defeats the whole purpose of the filler stand-pipe, which relies on the car being level.

The fill plug takes a 17mm hex driver or "allen" wrench, available at hardware stores. The pan requires a Torx T27 driver, and the filter a T20. A film of Vaseline on the filter seal will make putting the new filter on easier, but still requires a good push.

After the pan is back on, be sure the car is level, tighten the drain plug and fill through the fill port untill it begins to overflow. Then start the engine, and continue filling until it overflows again. Personally I use a ladder, funnel, and about 7 feet of 1/2" ID vinyl hose to fill mine, but a plunger pump will work too. A few shifts between neutral, Reverse, neutral, and drive, tapping the brakes to stop the wheels before shifts, is all it takes. When you have a steady dribble from the fill port, snug the fill plug and THEN stop the engine. If you haven't bought the ATF yet, I can tell you that I've used Valvoline MaxLife synthetic ATF for several years and have no complaints.

 

Was just trying to make it simple, the way I read the OP I'm not sure she's going to do the whole fill-hole-temperature bit.

 

You know from experience that this job is fairly involved, especially the first go-around. Perhaps the OP should just drain and refill, which avoids most of the mess that the pan-pull can cause. Six or seven quarts of MaxLife ATF should be less than $50. 17mm hex wrench and a plunger pump, the whole job under maybe $70. The filter is pretty generous in size, and the magnets catch the steel particles.