I went to the dealer and bought the right tensioner and pulley.

Then, with the tensioner and pulley off, I fed the new belt onto the crankshaft, using a 1/2 inch socket extension to hold the belt on the bottom of the crankshaft sprocket so it wouldn't slip off. I also put a socket and breaker bar on the big crankshaft nut to limit turning.

I fed the belt over the water pump and to the cam sprocket. As IanWPB suggested, I had to turn the camshaft a little to the right for the teeth to match up. I put a crescent wrench on the top of the sprocket to hold the belt in place. Same with visegrips on the bottom of the sprocket. This was done gently, just enough pressure to hold the belt on the cam sprocket.

Now, the belt is in place with the long run from crankshaft to cam sprocket tight.

Then, I installed the tensioner pulley. It fits easily in the counterclockwise "down" position. After that, I held the outside of the pulley tensioner lever with vise grips and rotated in clockwise to put pressure on the belt.

This is as described by FASTER except I had to do the tensioner last as the pulley would not fit with tensioner in place.

With the tensioner lever tight, the hydraulic tensioner just fit under the pulley. Time - 35 minutes.

I turned the crankshaft twice and made sure the marks lined up. Then I pulled the tensioner pin and let it put its tension on the belt.

Then, another two turns of the crankshaft and the marks lined up.

I put on the bottom of the timimg belt cover and the crankshaft damper pulley. Two more turns to make sure the outside marks lined up which they did.

"Thrifty and efficient" sounds better than "cheap and lazy." But, I have done a number of timing belts and not replaced the tensioner so I did not think it was needed on this car. But, if the people who have more experience on Audis say it's needed, that is good advice.

Many thanks for your help and quick response. The car runs a lot better but that is probably due to the new plugs.

John