This is my first thread here on Audi Forums and this is also my first attempt at changing the timing belt. I have a 1996 AUDI A4 Quattro V6 (SOHC 12V). When I set cylinder #3 to TDC, the crankshaft pulley marking aligned nicely with the marking on the plastic cover. I then inserted the crankshaft locking pin and suddenly I noticed that the cam sprockets did not perfectly align with each other. I am not able to install the cam shaft sprocket tool to lock the cam shafts and avoid turning them. Does anyone know why this could be?

SEE ATTACHED PICTURE

 

Is it possible that you need to turn the crank another full rotation? The crank does 2 rotations for every 1 of the cam shaft. So maybe if you remove the crank lock and do one more rotation it'll line up.

Otherwise, as long as you know that your crank is lined up, you can mark the cam sprockets in a couple places and do it without the cam lock bar. That's how I did it. It's really not that hard, in fact, I've heard it's easier without the cam lock bar.

 

You're properly positioned if the crank timing mark lines up and the cam brackets that hold the bar are horizontal, with the larger hole in each toward the center of the engine. Line them up and leave the bar off. Remove the belt, ensure the crank marks are aligned, and carefully rotate the cams until the brackets are horizontal. Then install the new belt.

 

I can't imagine how it wold be easier without the bar, when I did my timing belt the bar made everything so incredibly easy I was worried I did something wrong.

 

With the engine indexed properly, the cams are flat-spotted and will not spin. The only thing you need the bar for is if you're changing cam seals. Otherwise, it's not needed at all.

 

Sorry, let me clarify. I heard the bar gets in the way, so it's easier without it. Honestly, it was scary doing it the first time but after seeing how easy it really was just by using the marks, there's no reason that I can think of that you'd need to spend the $80 on the bar. Aside from the cam seals that is. Even then you can still do it without the bar.

 

I haven't used the bar in any of the 20-30 timing jobs I've been in on. Haven't had any leaky cam seals to deal with so it's been wholly unnecessary.

 

I bought the bar for peace of mind, then sold it locally and got my money back. Sure it's not needed but it was nice to have.