It is possible to damage rotors and hubs when over-torquing lug nuts. I've even seen cheap after market wheels damaged by over-tightened lug bolts. They are lucky they didn't snap a head off one!

The squeak might just be a coincidence. I can't think of anything that would cause a squeak after tire change unless they were REALLY ham-fisted and somehow bent the dust shield! How are your pads?

 

I've had mine for about 5 months and its doin pretty well. Had to replace a UCA and an exhaust clamp, and some bad wiring in the engine compartment, but other than that its been good. The 12V is a pretty reliable motor. I do need to get my timing belt done soon, and I can here another suspension link starting to go, this time in the back though. I've been saving up to try to take care of both of those things before winter but we'll see how that pans out.

Good call on the lug nuts guys... A lot of garages use a torque bar on an air gun instead of a legit torque wrench. Last time I had my brakes done at a shop I had to use a 4ft. piece of pipe on the end of the lug wrench to get my wheels off (that was on my old truck though). Needless to say, since then i've done my own brake work.

DIY FTW!!!

 

you have to be careful with audis they are very touchy feely and if u or someone else did something they don't like they will let you know. We aren't talking about Fix Or Repair Daily(ford) cars here. No I seriously doubt they screwed up your caliper by bolting them down that tight, the only thing that could have happened by torquing them that tight is that damage the studs but it sounds like you are fine. Going back to what I said about the 70-30 braking thing CCA was right. The rotors are bigger on the front and also see more air to cool then the rears. Honestly if u want to prevent warpage next time get drilled amd.or slotted rotors. Those honestly NEVER warp. They are expensive but well worth it. When I get done with my rear brakes I will have spent $800 just on my brake system with the lines pads and rotors I bought. You can't skimp brakes because they do save your life everyday. But ultimately I would check your rear pads for uneven wear (just eyeball it, or put a level to them) if they are fine your rear rotors are to blame.

 

Diagnosis:

The day they changed my front tires, they tried to sell me on calipers and rotors for the front- they said the front calipers were sticking. Turns out it's my right rear caliper that's sticking. It was PAINFUL to watch too. Up on the lift, when the accelerator was pressed all the wheels turned freely except the rear right- sometimes it turned when the other wheels were stopped, sometimes it stopped when the others were turning. What a crappy coincidence that this started the day after they changed my front tires...

Thanks for all your detective work guys. I think I'm gonna rip off my arm and trade it for a set of rotors and calipers. Maybe this will sound stupid but one more question, is it a bad idea to WD40 the threads of the lug nuts?

 

It's a bad idea to use WD-40 on anything. It's like crazy glue, it's a useless substance that people seem to use for everything, but it doesn't work!

Use a high-temp, high-quality anti-seize. Coat the back of the head and lightly coat the threads.