She died finally
#23
06-13-2009, 05:27 AM
This is why a wideband is always a good idea on ANY turbo car.Also.. I've been down this road. I own a 2000 Toyota Celica GT-S 6 speed. After spinning a rod bearing, I decided to park it while I rebuild it. Stroker, 12.5:1 CR , Sleeved block, chromoly lower end, $3,000+ in headwork, about 10k in the motor. Its way over the top. To this day, I don't drive it because I still need 2k in parts/tuning for it to run good. Thats why I bought my A4, to have something to drive since my Celica is down. It has been down for 2 years!
Do not choose this path. I recommend buying a stock motor, putting it in your car asap, then taking your current out, and building it. Then, when you are ready, drop it in. If your build goes south, throw the stocker back in.
Do not choose this path. I recommend buying a stock motor, putting it in your car asap, then taking your current out, and building it. Then, when you are ready, drop it in. If your build goes south, throw the stocker back in.
#24
06-13-2009, 08:22 PM
This is why a wideband is always a good idea on ANY turbo car.Also.. I've been down this road. I own a 2000 Toyota Celica GT-S 6 speed. After spinning a rod bearing, I decided to park it while I rebuild it. Stroker, 12.5:1 CR , Sleeved block, chromoly lower end, $3,000+ in headwork, about 10k in the motor. Its way over the top. To this day, I don't drive it because I still need 2k in parts/tuning for it to run good. Thats why I bought my A4, to have something to drive since my Celica is down. It has been down for 2 years!
Do not choose this path. I recommend buying a stock motor, putting it in your car asap, then taking your current out, and building it. Then, when you are ready, drop it in. If your build goes south, throw the stocker back in.
Do not choose this path. I recommend buying a stock motor, putting it in your car asap, then taking your current out, and building it. Then, when you are ready, drop it in. If your build goes south, throw the stocker back in.
#25
06-13-2009, 10:51 PM
I am looking at about 2k for a used motor with basic warrenty.
Now I am thinking of doing a mild build with only a bore becasue the walls are pretty grooved. I am priced at 1.5k for rods pistons and valves. not sure what other bits i need ATM
Also, how much would a head job be ish?
Now I am thinking of doing a mild build with only a bore becasue the walls are pretty grooved. I am priced at 1.5k for rods pistons and valves. not sure what other bits i need ATM
Also, how much would a head job be ish?
#29
06-22-2009, 03:58 PM
Just as it sounds: It accurately reads A/F ratio from around 9:1 up to around 18:1.. A 'standard' O2 sensor only reads a narrower range of around 12:1 to 16:1, and is not as accurate while doing it so is really a 'Lean, Good, Rich' sensor.
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