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Sequence for Engine Start- Cold and Warm

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Old 04-18-2015 | 11:33 AM
tomattsi's Avatar
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Joined: May 2012
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From: Sheboygan, Wisconsin
Default Sequence for Engine Start- Cold and Warm

I am looking for a breakdown or sequence of events that is required to start the 2.8 engine. I have been having issues with no run when the temperature is below 43. Works great if it is above 55. I am sure it is temperature related to engine temperature, I think anyway. If it is 45 degrees, the car will start, but barely run, until after about 10 minutes of a horrible idle, then works great when warm.
There are no codes on a start when warm, just misfire, secondary air, and sometimes crash detect. It varies each time.
I have changed the crankshaft position sensor, vacuum lines(small), Fuel pressure relay(110 psi on rail), and checked temp sensor for outside air and coolant. They are within 2 degrees, so I'm guessing they are OK.
I just would like to know exactly the sequence so I can test for each step in the process. I am out of ideas.
 
  #2  
Old 04-22-2015 | 10:40 AM
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From: Fallbrook California
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Originally Posted by tomattsi
...Fuel pressure relay(110 psi on rail.
Are you sure its 110 PSI? That seems to me, from memory, about double the normal FP. If that's the case, the engine would be way too rich, and you should get fuel trim codes. When trying to start, what do the plugs look like, dry or fuel-wet? Sure you have spark?
 
  #3  
Old 04-23-2015 | 01:02 PM
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From: Sheboygan, Wisconsin
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Thank you very much Turbo for getting back to me. I was beginning to think I am on my own still, and running out of thoughts.
When I took the pressure test, I did not take it the correct way. I could not find fittings to give me a straight through reading, but I wanted to verify that I did have fuel, so I connected the gauge direct to the feed line. The car acts like it is out of fuel. That's why I needed to find out if the pump was pumping. The car ALWAYS starts, then runs for almost 2 seconds, then stumbles until it dies. If it can stumble for 10 minutes, it will start running better. after about 12 minutes, it runs perfect. This is why I think it is temperature "sensor" related.
When I took the plugs out, they are in somewhat not great condition. They did not seem wet. It seems if I restrict the air flow on the intake, I can keep it somewhat running a little longer.
If I disconnect the MAF, there is no change, unless while running, then it dies. The air intake temperature is within a few degrees of the coolant temperature. This is why I "assume" the two sensors are correct.
I will pull the codes again before trying to start it today. The temperature here today is 45, so I know it will not start. I was thinking on using a hair dryer to heat up different locations(sensors) to see if I can find the area? LOL. Like I said, I'm running out of rabbits to pull from the hat.
I'll post my codes later after I pull them.
Again,,, thank you for trying to help.
 
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