Well guys, I'm currently looking at but dont own a B5 A4 1.8T... I've been lurking around a few websites for a while now reading up on these cars and I have a strong background with domestic V8's so I know how to turn a wrench, but I still have a lot of questions about these cars. I'm looking to get it primarily because its AWD and I do a lot of hilly driving in the winter and frankly cant afford to drive a truck to work 6 days a week.

First off, I test drove a 2001 A4 1.8T with 90k miles on it. It was in great shape inside and out. The dealer wasnt sure if the timing belt was changed out or not, which I know is a big deal on these cars, but I haggled him into including that in his purchase price for additional $500 (I'd do it, but dont know the first thing about german/turbo'd cars)

I was very dissappointed though while driving it to find it really had no ***** off the line. I could tell when the boost kicked in more in the higher RPMS, but i'm used to a real tourqey V8, be it my mustang or my truck. I'm not knocking these cars at all either, I'm just saying what I'm used to.

Now, I've read up that tuning does quite a bit for these cars. Everyone says GIAC is the best for the B5's but there isnt a dealer within a reasonable distance from me. There is however an APR dealer literally 10 minutes from my house, so I'll likely go with that if I decide to get the car.

What I'm looking at from you guys, is honesty. I'm really only going to get this car if initial tuning can wake it up. How drastic of a difference would you say there is between GIAC and APR tuning? and can you point me to any dyno graphs (to the wheels, not the flywheel) of a APR tuned B5? I'm not so much concerned with adding tons and tons of power as I am just making it a more lively - off the line, bottom end car for daily driving. In the spring I may do a Carbino intake and exhaust, but for now it would be just the initial tune...

thanks for your help guys!

 

Get at Mike2ptzero. He's pretty much a 1.8T god. As for the no ***** part these cars weigh almost 2 tons. I've never really heard much about APR being a 2.8 guy but I know you can send in your chip through Awe Tuning and have GIAC modify it. It's $250 if you send yours in and $300 if you want a brand new chip from them.

 

there isnt much difference between giac and apr, if an APR dealer is closer just go with that (unless you ever plan on upgrading, as APR does not offer software for upgraded turbos[except for their own very expensive packages]). there is quite a difference though between a stock car and a chip car. an instant +50 tq and hp will be very noticable and it kicks some more life into the car. its no V8 but its pretty quick. turbo cars drive different from n/a cars, so you are just going to have to get used to it.

with any good chip, you will have full 15psi or so of boost around 2800-2900 rpms. with some mods like an exhaust and high flow cat you can get that even lower. with a chip you want to get a good DV, the stock one doesnt hold up.

im in CT too, where is there an APR dealer around here? thats the chip i have in my car but im not sure where it came from. it was there when i purchased the car. get a good pair of snow tires for the winter and you will be passing trucks in the snow.

 

There's a place in Vernon called North American Motorsport thats listed as an APR dealer... I live over in Windsor so 10 minute drive

I dont want you guys to think I'm bashing these cars at all, I'm not. The ride quality for one is killer and once its rolling, I think the engine picks up nicely... Another 50 ft/lbs of tq just through a tune alone sounds pretty damn impressive though.

Also, the car I'm looking at is an automatic. Most of the turbo kits and exhaust kits i've seen online say for 5 speed only. Why is that? Bellhousing that much bigger on the auto or something?

 

the turbo kits shouldnt matter what trans it is, the exhaust might matter because of size/placement of things. what kits were you looking at exactly? mostly the only thing that matters is quattro or non quattro for parts.

 

APR and milltek exhaust kits both said 5spd on the sites i was looking at.

 

The tuning makes all the difference in the world. The auto trans, IMO, kills you off the line as you put it. Look for a manual and try to test drive it to see if you like it better. You can get the revs a little higher and into boost faster (I'm guessing, I've never driven and auto 1.8T).

As for exhaust, look at the NeuSpeed. It was a lot less expensive, and I love mine. The sound is great, nice and low, not too loud, and not ricey...

 

to echo what has been said, a proper tune from apr or giac will make a very noticeable difference. If you have an apr dealer 10 mins from your house, you will want to go with them, unless you are thinking about uprgading the turbo as was mentioned. You can mail your ecu to giac if you want to go with them.

The carbino intake is expensive and not necessary for a chipped k03 setup, maybe buy a high flow filter. You will want to upgrade the dv to a 710n or forge 007, and purchase a boost gauge. Exhaust is of course a good upgrade.

The TB job is not too bad, you can buy a kit for $300ish and DIY.

A lot of info on the 1.8t is in one of the stickies in the b5 section of this forum.

 

Amsoil EAA239 air filter is all you need as far as intake stuff goes. Just as good as K&N, also long lasting, and doesn't require being oiled (and thus no MAF cleanings required)

Make sure that the spark plugs and fuel filter have been replaced recently. For the timing belt job, you want the water pump done as well and it should be one with a metal impeller. The OEM ones have plastic impellers. And the dealer should know this (unlike the kid I bought my A4 from) but the tensioner is as important or more important to replace than the belt itself.

Manuals are better but be advised that the clutch feel on these WILL annoy you by engaging at the top of the pedal. I also have a background with American V8 cars (my other car's a Pontiac G8 GT, though that's technically Australian).

You're not going to get that off the line feel that a V8 car will give you. But you can get a lot up top, and you won't be constantly spinning your tires like my G8 does.

 

With the reflash, be sure to gap the plugs down too, to compensate for the increased boost. Stock gap is .032" and you'll want to come down to .028" when you chip it.

Also, if the 1.8T is similar to the 30v 2.8L, the manual is geared shorter (at least the final drive ratio is) - my manual tachs 3000RPM at 70mph, and my friend's automatic pulls the same speed with less than 2500 revs on the tach. That may add to the more lively feel of the car.