Son's '97 A4 Quattro, 2.8, 5-speed, 163,000 miles. . .the car's in SoCal and me, dad, am in CO: "Dad, my car's smoking badly from under the hood!" I talked him through a visual diagnostic and he has reported adding hydraulic fluid from time to time (yes the expensive/good stuff!) but no history of noise nor hard steering. Nevertheless, since I've replaced a rack & pinion on an old '86 5000S, I'm highly suspicious that this is the culprit. When he can recruit a friend, I'm going to have him start the car and load the steering system by turning the wheel left and right and observe the boot ends to see if it's leaking. He's seeing dripping coming down from the driver's side CV joint/boot but, of course, those don't "leak" per se, since they're loaded with grease and not fluid. Moreover, with the ol' 5000s, the failing rack & pinion was dripping out of the ends and onto the exhaust header, creating the smoke and acrid odor. Here's a couple of preliminary pics he sent to me as well.
Why am I posting this? Cause like most all of us, I'm only a shade tree mechanic and want to make sure I'm on the right track/trail! I'd welcome any sage counsel from all of you out there. Any photo threads out there of the R & R?
I did an entire top-end job on my '97 A6, Quattro, 2.8 after I activated the Interference Motor Rule (busted timing belt and resultant bent valves!) via AudiForums so am a big fan!

 

On the driver side, pull back the TRE boot. If you see fluid, the rack seals are shot and it'll have to be replaced. Not a fun job - we've do e a few of them here and have it down to about 5-6 hours. First time took 11 hours feeling out our way through the job and that was four guys who know their way around Audis and wrenches. It's a DIY job but at the upper end of the pain in the *** scale for sure.

 

Thanks for your helpful reply and I'll have him retract the boot to further observe any leakage. You boys extract the R&P from the Driver's side or the Passenger's side of the fender wells? Just curious and I think I have some trauma memories of the job in the ol' 5000S. Removing the car from the R&P and that Pentosin fluid is nasty and, of course, pricey stuff! Accessing the hydraulic lines requires bodily contortion, too, I'm guessing, as well as some flesh sacrifices!
Stand by. . .

 

Where exactly is your son located? There are a few of us in SoCal.

 

Pull from the driver's side because thats where column bolts in.
The only issue is cause its a 2.8 the hydraulic lines are harder to take off and even harder to get back on.

 

It's the R & P for sure! Okay, gang, new pics confirming beyond a doubt that the R & P has failed. However, I'm now shopping a rebuilt/replacement unit through Car Steering Wholesale (who clearly have the best prices) and they offer two ZF units, one with a steering strut and one without, the prices of which are highly similar. Don't ever recall seeing a steering strut on or near the R & P but am curious, IF one exists, where would it be located on the R & P?????
Here's the part numbers and brief descrition of the two units from Car Steering Wholesale:

Click to Enlarge
80-00091 More info Power Steering Rack

Why are our parts better? $295 $150 Friday 36 Month

More Info


Click to Enlarge
80-00471 More info Power Steering Rack

Why are our parts better? $265 $100 Friday 36 Month

More Info 0

Lastly, a couple more pics of the failing unit. . .

Would welcome thoughts about that steering strut, however!

Lastly and reflective of the fact that the car's in CA while I'm in CO, can the thing be driven with the power steering pump off-line? I seem to recall that there's a serpentine belt that ties all the ancillary units together, which would mean that the pump cannot be disabled so that the car can be driven without all the "liquid gold" Pentosin fluid continuing to leak. I'm making arrangements for the car to be driven to a Car Uncle's house to have them do the R&R!!!

 

Wow, one of you is asking my son's SoCal location and suggesting there's some additional physical help out there??? Awesome! He's in San Clemente and I'm probably going to have him drive up to Yorba Linda for assistance- all Orange County, one south county and one north county. . .
I'm humbled by your implications and certainly did not expect such a suggestion/offer.

 

Agreed on removal from the driver side and the difficulty of getting the lines off. We needed 20mm and 22mm wrenches. We also grabbed a couple sockets of those sizes and ground them down on a bench grinder for easier access. Be sure you carefully measure and mark the thread distance of the outer TREs so that when you put them on the new rack, you put them in the same distance to maintain toe settings and steering accuracy. Last, the boot over the column in the R&P tunnel is kind of a pain to position once the new rack is in.

 

i've been told by somebody(whatever numbers) that you can easily access the banjo bolts if you put the car high enough. he uses a lift so he can get it plenty high lol. what devil is saying is totally true. it was my car that we learned our lessons lol.

i wouldn't drive with the pump dry but still pumping due to it still being hooked up to the belt. you'll overheat it and then you'll be buying a new pump. i'm speaking from experience haha.

 

Thank you, AGAIN, each of you, with this very helpful forum thread! I am, however, still unclear as to which R & P unit to order- one with what appears to be an internal steering damper or one with an external one. The photos of the units on the CarSteering site, the only parts site that makes a distinction of an internal damper and an external one, show NO difference. My son cannot get a clean view of the R & P from above in the engine compartment and, of course, he's not quite sure what he's lookiing for. There is, on the CarSteering site, about a $30.00 difference between the two units and talking with them is of no help.
Any thoughts on this would be welcome 'cause I'm stalled (no pun intended!) with the ordering of the replacement unit!
How many cans of Pentosin would you recommend? Got 1 1/2 available and I'm hoping his Car Uncle will be able to drain off the existing fluid in the reservoir and recycle it. . .
I believe that once the installation is completed and all involved parties are still alive, that bleeding the system involves rotating the wheel back and forth to full opposite lock with the engine off. Sound correct?
Also, for your viewing pleasure, here's a pic of the car, as attached. Bought it late last summer, changed out the timing belt and a BUNCH of other little stuff and he and him mother busted their ****** removing a lousy window tinting job from all the windows, taking hours of tedious work. Nice ride for a 20-year-old as long as he's got a mechanic in the family!!!!!Me (and all of you!) And that 5-speed makes that otherwise anemic 2.8 lively!