Problems, should I get rid of my car?
#1
Problems, should I get rid of my car?
How's it going guys, my 99 2.8 has 182,000 miles on it....I'm just not sure if it's worth future investments. Here's the codes I have, and I'll explain what else I know it needs. Do you think I could get around 2,000 for it? Are there places that will buy it to part out? I don't have the money to invest and I'm not sure it would be worth it given the mileage. Your help and advice is greatly appreciated, as always.
The bolts on rims are rusted and some need to be drilled out due to being stripped. There's a place that can probably take care of this but it would cost around $75 minimum.
Need all new rotors and brake pads, potentially calipers as well.
How serious is a cylinder misfire?
Here are the codes...I can see myself needing to drop some serious coin, and I don't think it's worth the investment.
P0455 evap emission control system leak large
P0441 evap emission control system purge flow fault
P0411 secondary air injection system incorrect flow
P0153 02 sensor ckt slow response (blank 2 sensor 1)
P0301 cylinder 1 misfire detected
P0301 cylinder 1 misfire detected
The bolts on rims are rusted and some need to be drilled out due to being stripped. There's a place that can probably take care of this but it would cost around $75 minimum.
Need all new rotors and brake pads, potentially calipers as well.
How serious is a cylinder misfire?
Here are the codes...I can see myself needing to drop some serious coin, and I don't think it's worth the investment.
P0455 evap emission control system leak large
P0441 evap emission control system purge flow fault
P0411 secondary air injection system incorrect flow
P0153 02 sensor ckt slow response (blank 2 sensor 1)
P0301 cylinder 1 misfire detected
P0301 cylinder 1 misfire detected
#2
I don't see anything "serious" here,i see a vacuum hose workup needs to be done,thats what those evap codes are and the misfiring could simply be coil packs,which are not expensive,cost like 20-23 dollars each at autozone or advanced auto parts.
I'm even gonna go a step further and say that you could even get all 4 coil packs replaced free by your local audi dealer,there is a recall in effect for our B5's coil packs,check with your local audi dealer by giving them your vin number,ask if your car is covered under the recall. I would replace spark plugs aswell,you pretty much need a major tune up on the usual suspects.
Get all those things done and clear every single code,but first write down all the codes on paper or if you have a vag-com,scan your car,copy the results to the windows clipboard and paste it into a word,text,document,so you can check to see which ones come back and which doesn't.
I'm even gonna go a step further and say that you could even get all 4 coil packs replaced free by your local audi dealer,there is a recall in effect for our B5's coil packs,check with your local audi dealer by giving them your vin number,ask if your car is covered under the recall. I would replace spark plugs aswell,you pretty much need a major tune up on the usual suspects.
Get all those things done and clear every single code,but first write down all the codes on paper or if you have a vag-com,scan your car,copy the results to the windows clipboard and paste it into a word,text,document,so you can check to see which ones come back and which doesn't.
Last edited by morpheous; 03-11-2011 at 03:59 PM.
#5
Nothing too scary at all. If you can do the brakes yourself you can do them very inexpensively. The Wheel bolts are something you would need to get done first but it's not the end of the world. Definitely not worth selling the car.
#7
You should evaluate you car apart from its current issues, also never count brakes as a problem, that's normal maintenance you have to do for any car. (And if you own an older car then you should be expecting that sort of expense and have a few bucks saved up for it.) If you still like it, just keep it. The costs of getting a new vehicle are always more than people think. You should expect to dump $1k into anything used. On top of purchase costs, title/registration/plates.
Now the first few codes aren't a big deal, but a mechanic will hit you for diagnostic time. We charge an hour minimum, more if it's a pita to figure out. A smoke machine makes that stuff easier though, the preformed vacuum lines are expensive, and while purge/vent solenoids are not too expensive, they are in gnarly spots (usually, i dont know exactly on these cars). Basically It may well end up being cheaper to have a mechanic diagnose the issue, rather than throw parts at it and hope they stick. Provided you can get it to a worth a **** mechanic, finding a good independent guy is a very good idea. and they aren't things that need to be fixed immediately, but it looks like a secondary air pump and a purge solenoid... the leak, large code refers to the Purge solenoid....probably, lol. You should have it smoked.
The only scary one is the o2... if you wiped out a cat, that can suck. The other codes can cause conditions within the motor that will do exactly that, if you are driving it for a long time like that. It may be related to the secondary air injection though. I can only guess so much, haha.
To properly diagnose a misfire, you're gonna need a scan tool (Vag-Com). The actual diagnosis is pretty easy, but it's the only way to get the info. In my experience when you have multiple misfires pop up, coils aren't the problem (Doesn't mean they CAN'T be the problem, because they can, and there are known issues with these..) But i change a lot of Power Stages. If you know someone with a 1.8t its a simple thing to swap in a known working one and got for a test drive.
Now the first few codes aren't a big deal, but a mechanic will hit you for diagnostic time. We charge an hour minimum, more if it's a pita to figure out. A smoke machine makes that stuff easier though, the preformed vacuum lines are expensive, and while purge/vent solenoids are not too expensive, they are in gnarly spots (usually, i dont know exactly on these cars). Basically It may well end up being cheaper to have a mechanic diagnose the issue, rather than throw parts at it and hope they stick. Provided you can get it to a worth a **** mechanic, finding a good independent guy is a very good idea. and they aren't things that need to be fixed immediately, but it looks like a secondary air pump and a purge solenoid... the leak, large code refers to the Purge solenoid....probably, lol. You should have it smoked.
The only scary one is the o2... if you wiped out a cat, that can suck. The other codes can cause conditions within the motor that will do exactly that, if you are driving it for a long time like that. It may be related to the secondary air injection though. I can only guess so much, haha.
To properly diagnose a misfire, you're gonna need a scan tool (Vag-Com). The actual diagnosis is pretty easy, but it's the only way to get the info. In my experience when you have multiple misfires pop up, coils aren't the problem (Doesn't mean they CAN'T be the problem, because they can, and there are known issues with these..) But i change a lot of Power Stages. If you know someone with a 1.8t its a simple thing to swap in a known working one and got for a test drive.
Last edited by RandomAudiOwner; 03-12-2011 at 12:08 AM.
#8
Thanks guys, I'm scheduled to get the wheels off on thursday, so hopefully that works out. I'm having a competant audi mechanic install 4 shocks he took off his S4 once I get the wheels off, so I'll ask him if he can vag-com it for me and see what's going on. I know a very good mechanic where I live so I'll have him take a look at the issues stated, I know he's very familiar with replacing o2 sensors etc.
I have about $1000 I can put into her, so I'll do the brakes myself to save some extra cash, evidently my brake pads are alright so I'm going to just replace the rotors and see how that works out.
I'll keep this thread updated with my progress, It has been a great car and if I can get it to run well I definitely will invest, I just didn't know how serious those codes could be!
I have about $1000 I can put into her, so I'll do the brakes myself to save some extra cash, evidently my brake pads are alright so I'm going to just replace the rotors and see how that works out.
I'll keep this thread updated with my progress, It has been a great car and if I can get it to run well I definitely will invest, I just didn't know how serious those codes could be!
#9
The pads are the cheapest part of a brake job. I wouldn't go through all the trouble without replacing them. You will have the pads out anyway. Unless the pads were replaced VERY recently just put new ones on and you can buy yourself a lot more time before you have to do it again.