I recently installed a test pipe. I knew that I would get a code unless I got an MIL eliminator or similair. After the install the car had a huge loss in power. The car was running 14psi. Now the car runs 14psi but the car takes much longer to get there and seems to be extremely rich.

I hooked the logger up and i'm getting a p0301 for a cylinder 1 misfire. I pulled the plug and it seems to be burning fine..

I did a search on solutions to a catless car. I chose the route of Spark plug non foulers. Installed them, cleared the code and went for a ride. Still no power and the light quickly came back.


Is there something I'm still doing wrong that I have such a loss in power? I'm good with my DSM's but when it comes to the Audi I'm just a newbie. Thanks in advance for any help.

-Mike

 

That misfire code could be old unless your CEL/MIL is flashing. Clear it and see if it comes back. How does it "seem" to be rich? The smell? Get used to it. There shouldnt be loss in how fast boost is built. Are you sure you don't have a leak? Where did you get your test pipe and how wide is it? You put the non fouler on the secondary 02 sensor right?

 

Thanks for the reply. I'm lost when it comes to this car.

The CEL came on after the car warmed up after the test pipe was installed. I cleared the code and within a few minutes it came back and stays on. When I go to 100% throttle for a few seconds the CEL will flash. Pull the code and I come up with the same cylinder 1 misfire. Plug appears to be burning fine.

As far as being rich, I don't smell anything but it just seems as if its being bogged down by too much fuel. I'm going to build a boost leak tester tonight and try it. I don't see myself having a leak as soon as I changed the testpipe since I didnt touch anything that would leak other than the intake pipe.

The testpipe is from ebay. I think the size is 2.5". I compared the testpipe to my friends APR and its identical. Actually, the welds on the ebay piece are thicker and cleaner.

Thanks for any more help.

 

Since I seem to have someone who knows what they are talking about.. I've been noticing a rattle under some deceleration and idle. After hours I tracked it down to the arm for the wastegate actuator. The arm that goes to the flapper is loose and can be moved around. I was running out of time last night, but can it be tightened or adjusted?

Thanks

 

Check cyl 1 spark plug again for any lines/hair line cracks in the white porcelin insulator. In fact, just replace your plugs if you dont know if/when they were replaced last. UseNGK BKR6E gapped at .032 for stock. A misfire ONLY under heavy load indicates a cracked plug in my experience. A continuous misfire is normally a bad coil or ICM. What year is your car?

How are you achieving 14 psi? Thats higher than stock boost but lower than if you were chipped (unless its an older 1 bar chip.)

As far as the wastegate, theactuator arm is known to become loose from the inside of the wastegate (flap). I think there is a nut and washeron the inside that secures the arm. If you get the turbo out youll be able to see what the problem is. A stock k03 being $100-$200 used, it's normally worthwhile just to replace the whole turbo than to attempt to polish crap.

READ

 

There should be 2 nuts on the wg arm, one on eithe side of the wg flapper arm. When one of the nuts gets loose the wg flapper will tend to bounce around and will be allowed to be pushed open when it shouldn't.


hereyou can see the 2 nuts in this picture.

 

My cars a 97 1.8t 5 speed

I'm going to buy a new set of plugs since I noticed there are 2 different types. I moved the #1 coil to the #2 position and the CEL moved to #2 so I guess I'll need to try and find a coil. Hopefully they are a reasonable price.

I noticed today under normal driving condition the car runs fine and the CEL will not come on. If I do a pull in any gear I get the CEL.

When I bought the car the only mod done to it was an APR chip. He still had the receipt and it was done in 2000 for 1.0 bar. Can I run more boost on the stock fuel system and still be efficient with this small turbo?[:-] If thats the case i'd like to increase it as much as I can.


Thanks for that picture. I'm guessing its impossible to tighten that arm whil its no the car? It seems very tight in there.

As far as removing the turbo goes.. If that turbos coming off some much bigger is going on. I have a HX-35 from my Talon but I don't think the little 1.8 can handle it. I've heard many people doing a k04 but that still very small. I'd like to be at 300+ so is a t-28 my best bet?

Can a manual boost controller be added to the car to pick up 1 or 2 more PSI?

Thanks alot for your help. Since I'm selling the Talon I'll have to start modding this car.

-Mike

 

The stock motor can only handle about 350whp, but if you throw in rods it can hold just about anything you throw it at. I still run the 1.8 block my car came with from Audi but is making 600whp with a GT35r and I will be going bigger soon to aim for 700+whp and 9's.

You will not get 300+hp with a T28 unless your tuning it for 25psi and race gas. If you want 300hp on pump gas you will need to go with a GT28rs/71, even the elim kits in those size turbos will produce 250-270whp on pump gas and up to 330whp on race gas tune which is around 400chp.

 

Wow, i'd think you can get much more from a t-28 on these cars. Years back I recall putting down about 305whp on pump gas.

In order for me to get about 300 horsepower whats a ball park on how much it would cost me?

Do you have some pics/mod list I can see for your car.


Now back to my car. Just to be sure I wanted to move the coil from the #2 cylinder. I put the coil in the #4 location and went for a ride. The car pulled perfect with no misfires. I'll post tomorrow with updates.

Thanks for help.

 

I ran the PES T28 kit back in 2001, custom tuned at 21psi and it put down 225awhp on 91 and 250awhp on 100.


A GTRS elim kit is around $2800 - $2900 with tuning and injectors.




Picture of my car from last year.



Pictures from this year after installing the doors/fenders and new hood.



Video of 3 runs from last year.


Here is part of my mod list.
ENGINE:
ATW block bored to 83.5 mm
ABA 2 liter crank
JE 8.5:1 Pistons
Pauter Rods
Ported AEB head[/align]RaceWare heads
Schrick 252 cams
1mm over intake valves [/align]Stock size exhaust valves[/align]High lift, high rate valve-spring set with Titanium retainers
VR6 throttle body
Custom Intake Manifold[/align]034 Motorsport Wrinkle painted valve cover[/align]034 Motorsport Coil Heat Shield
034 Motorsport Solid Engine mounts[/align]Stern Snub Mountfrom Pure Motorsport
Oil Catch Can drained back into the oil pan
Odyssey Light Weight Racing Battery (PC680MJT)
Custom Billet Battery Holder
Custom Power Steering Cooler
NewSouth Performance PowerGasket Plus[/align]Aftermarket Electric Fan

TURBO & EXHAUST:
Full-Race.com manifold
GT35R with .82 ar
Tial 38mm waste gate
Wastegate dump tube
3" down pipe
3" test pipe with dump outlet
3" exhaust to Magnaflow muffler
Custom Evolution Racewerks FMIC with Garrett 24x10.5x3.5 core
2.5" IC pipes
Tial 50mm BOV
HKS Filter

FUEL & TUNING:
034 Motorsport IIc stand alone with 4.5 bar map sensor
96 lbs low imp injectors
034 Motorsport fuel rail
SX adjustable fpr
-6 AN fuel feed line from tank
Bosch Motorsport 044 fuel pump from 034efi
HKS EVC4 Boost Controler
Tuned at 32psi on 110 octane

TRANSMISSION and DRIVELINE:
1.8 trans[/align]Custom 4800 lbs dual diaphram 6 puck clutch
Spec Billet Steel flywheel
034 Motorsport solid trans mounts[/align]Stern rear diff mount and rear diff bushings from Pure Motorsport[/align]