Good to know, I hadn't seen this company yet. Thanks.

 

I got a reply from the Fenco sales rep (company that supplies Advance Auto). Turns out they ran out of cores to rebuild, and there's a 90 day lead. Doesn't help me any, but at least they'll be available again in the future sometime for anyone else.

 

So, I'm finally starting this project. Still haven't got the new rack yet, but it will be on the way soon.

My haynes manual says there should be a hole through the steering column shaft, and that you're supposed to use wire and secure it to the spring loop underneath the dash. Devil's DIY didn't say anything about this, and my steering shaft has no hole. It's just a solid rod. Anyone know what's going on here? Is this just a difference between the Passat or whatever car the Haynes guys used, and I'm safe to continue, or do I have to find away to hold that shaft in place?

 

A local well-regarded German car independent mechanic recommends changing the PS fluid periodically to make the rack and pump seals last longer. Does anyone do this?

 

After my troubles, I would do it. I think the cause of my problems is the previous owner put standard PS fluid in it, so it may not be totally necessary if you've always used the right fluids. Can't hurt though.

 

If the car has always had the right fluid then you probably don't have to change it, but you won't hurt it by doing so. As for locking the shaft, I've been involved in several rack swaps and haven't ever done that, nor seen a provision for it (all my experience has been in A4s). Just center the wheel before separating the shaft, and if/when you turn it, count the rotations you make and turn it back the same number to recenter it afterward. It's worked every time.

 

I got the old rack out last night, finally. I used some different techniques that might help the next guy.

The top two mounting bolts were easy, obviously. The third one is a bitch, plain and simple. I used a 6" extension, 1ft extension, universal joint, 3" extension, 10mm 12pt socket in that order to get at it. I adjusted the universal joint to the angle I think I needed then taped it up to keep it from bending all over and getting stuck on something as I snaked it up through between the frame and the drivers side axle. Worked good once I figured out which combination of extensions/u-joints to use.

For the 22mm banjo bolt (fluid lines) I used a 1/2" ratchet and a 1ft extension and stuck it up through the bottom, above the A-arm. Kind of hard to explain where exactly. I couldn't use wrenches for mine as the lines were routed right in front of the bolts. I did the same thing with the 19mm, only with a 3/8" ratchet + extension. Worked better, IMO.

Once I got everything off the rack slid out somewhat easily once I got the angle right. No real way to help with this, just do it by feel. Flashlight helped.

I had to get the old one out to make sure I was ordering the right one. My car had the aluminum ZF rack. Apparently some come with a different designed rack with a steel shell.

 

Did you get any pics to go along with your work? If so, I can add them to the DIY. if you don't mind, I'll borrow your comments and add them into the procedure as well as a second method to use - more techniques never hurt.

 

Nope, I didn't think of it in time. I will take a few as I put the new one in; might help someone.

 

So I recieved the new rack from RackDoctor, and it looks right except that the OE rack has a steering dampener. The new one doesn't have the mounting locations for it, so I can't swap it over. Is not having it going to be a problem?