"big turbo" doenst mean giant *** air sucking monster. A smaller EFR can be had and it will respond like the smaller stock k04 yet have the power of a nicer garret or a turbo of that nature. ANything bigger than a k04 is essentially a big turbo.

 

The audi and VW scene is the only ones I have ever seen use the terms big turbo or big *** turbo. When I first looked at the forums I was seriously WTF'n it. I literally had to look up what was meant.

To me a GT2860RS is not a Big turbo. It is bigger then K04 but thats not saying too much. Most other scenes, even the D series scene uses T3T4 turbos and anything smaller is considered a waste. Basically though any turbo other then K04 and K03 falls in the BT class. I am guessing tbigger then the GT35R means BAT. I guess my GT4202 would fall under BAT as well. Maybe it would fall under BGAT (Big Ghetto *** Turbo).

I guess my point is that lingo used is seriously confusing. I can completely understand why he is confused since the same thing happened to me.

If the damn VR6 swap was not so expensive I think it with a T3T4 turbo would be done a lot more. The extra 1.0 displacement can really make a difference in spool. If you can fabricate this would be a bad *** setup. I can do a lot of fab stuff but even this is out of my comfort area.

The Borg Warner EFR is expensive but they do deliver. If you look at an EFR and compare it performance to a GTX or GTR from Garrett the EFR is a much better deal since you get a lot more. The EFR comes with a bad *** built in wastegate setup and Bypass valve. This knocks extra fab work off and the cost of a BPV (or BOV) which is around $200 ish for a good one and $250 of for the wastegate. They don't quite spool as quick as K04 but they 6258 seems to spool like a GT28RS and make power like a GT3071R. That is really having your cake and eating it too. It is almost worth saving money to get.

I think RAI quoted me 350awhp with the 6258 and 425awhp with 6758. The 6758 will spool about 400-500 RPM slower as well.


Comp turbos are fine. The entry line restricts you to certain turbos. ANything past those and you are close to the price of the EFR. It would not make sense in my book to buy a Comp turbo for $1200 and not go ahead and pay the extra $250 for an EFR. The only entry line turbos is the CT2 4856 and 5556. The 5556 has more flow potential but I have no idea how different they are in spool characteristics. Contact the guy I linked you too. I am pretty sure he works for Ringer racing and they have these turbos listed. Talk to him as he should be able to tell you more and give you more definitive info.

 

What makes it hard if you can fab? Have you seen the mounts 034 sells? Any basic fabricator can make the mounts. The only really hard part i see is the adaptor, which can also be made if you have access to the right materials. The only real expense is the standalone management that is needed.

 

After looking at the GT28RS that is also looking pretty nice too. I just don't know what I should expect to pay for these and what is needed to make everything run properly. I think if I knew that then I would be in a better boat than I am now. Also, I feel that if I were to get a Garrett I would be better off with tunes because more companies have tunes made for those don't they?

 

I was thinking about the VR6 swap since there is 12V at my junk yard I can get for nothing. The ECU is the easier part with swapping in an Megasquirt with an EDIS crank trigger ECU setup. $500 issue.

Now if you don't want to buy pre made parts it will take time. I can CNC just about anything you want. Weld a lil bit. But getting a motor in just right will take time. The parts did not cost too much but the estimates I seen on doing the swap are in the 10K range. To expensive for me.

Zaboom- Most tunes will wrok for turbos as long as the tune you chose is closely related for what the turbo it is designed for. They are mostly K04 tune, BT tune, and Big *** Tune. I am guessing the 6258 and 6758 will fall under the BT tune or say United Motorsports Stage 4 tune (what they suggested when I spoke with them. Me personally I am going with a Maestro as it gives you a base tune and then gives you control over the ECU to fine tune it. The one size fits all tunes have got to have a bit of safety built into them to work with several setups over just one specific setup. United Motorsports can also fine tune for you as long as you datalog and then return the ECU.

 

HAHAH 10k? i dont even think it would cost 10k buying all the 034 parts. Obviously the megasquirt issue is easily solved, so If you can get the engine for so cheap, even tho its a 12v, why not get it and do it. Theres really not that many vr6 b5s out there and the vr6 is one of the best boostable engines ever. Way more potential with the extra liter and the 2 extra pistons. Add compact size and power, one of the best engine swaps for mostly any car.

 

zandrew- My biggest issue is finding a place to do the tune. There were only two places within an hours drive from me and one was Revo(which is what I have on my car now) and the other was unitronics. So the people to do the custom tunes isn't really an option for me. I talked to the people at the revo shop and they were setting me up with a GT28RS with injectors and then the tune and that's all they said was needed(besides a fmic of course).

 

Maestro? It will cost about as much as a tune from a shop would...

 

How exactly does Maestro work?

 

maestro is basically a program that is installed in your computer that you use to adjust values in your ecu. the same way a tuner at the dyno would, but allows you to do it at home using output from various sensors. it can get complicated. you either have to know how to tune car using 02 sensor, maf, and map sensors readings, or be willing to learn.