i figured out my vacuum issue so i thought i would post it. after replacing all my vacuum lines, i decided to pull out my boost gauge and see if the leak was at the connection to the back of the guage. well it wasnt leaking, but it was kinked. so i cut off the kinked area and rerouted the vacuum tube so it didnt have such a sharp turn in the tube, and that fixed it. i now am pulling between 20 and 22 hg idle and the gauge is so much more responsive. thanks for the help.

 

DOH! Nice find, happy to hear it's sorted!

 

ok, sorry to resurrect this thread, but i still havent fixed this problem. i am still throwing a P1336 code (long term fuel additive, system lean). i think i fixed my vacuum problem, but i still may have a very small leak. my vacuum keeps changing. when i first start the car, i idle at around 18 hg. but then when i stop at a stop light, sometimes i'm only getting like 16hg and sometimes i'm getting 20hg. i dont understand how its changing all the time. and i cant seem to get rid of this CEL code either and i have already changed the maf sensor, all vacuum lines, vacuum check valves, and pre-cat O2 sensor. what else should i be looking at?

 

Normal that code is for a vacuum leak. Espically at the fuel pressure regulator. The code could also be a bad mass air flow sensor. Since the car died when you filled up im wondering if(like stated before) the evap purge valve is sticking open which flooded the car and cause your vacuum leak, But that normally throws a evap code. it might be something to check into. Did you use a cheap replacement maf.

 

When you fixed the gauge, did you reset the DTCs? Did you also try adapting the throttle body?

P1136 (not P1336, right?) Long Term Fuel Trim Add.Fuel,Bank1 System too Lean

The "add" means fuel trim at idle. A stuck open evap purge valve usually dilutes the mix and will cause an O2 sensor to see a rich condition (lack of O2) and the ECM then pulls back fuel trims to compensate. Additionally, you'll often see a code for improper evap. purge.

This code (P1136) is an indication the ECM is pushing fuel trims as much as possible and the O2 sensor is still seeing a lean condition. It's often a vacuum leak or bad MAF. Check all the check valves, oil dipstick tube, and all of the breather hoses around the block for cracks. You can use propane to find your vacuum leak with the engine running.

 

yeah its code P1136. i have been searching for vacuum leaks for god knows how long. i do remember seeing a code last time for a evap purge or something like that so that sounds like it might be it. where is this evap purge valve and how much am i talking pricewise?? i have already changed the maf, the pre-cat O2 sensor, and i have checked all the check valves and replaced the 1 that was bad, but still didnt fix anything. how do i check the evap purge valve to see if its working properly?

 

The purge valve is simply a solenoid, so applying 12v to it should yield a "click." Additionally, see if you can blow through it with no power, and then power applied. Last, if you have access to a VAGcom, you can short test the evap purge system.

Before you go crazy, double check you have the right O2 sensor for your VIN range. In general, a stuck open evap purge valve will fool the O2 sensor into a rich reading (less O2 in the exhaust). Additionally, it is often accompanied by another DTC pertaining to the evap system for improper purge or leak detected.

Did you adapt the tb, erase the DTCs, etc?

 

well i replaced the purge valve with one from the junkyard and its still not working. so i took a multimeter to it and i'm getting valtage but it looks like i have an open ground. so my question is this, when is this solenoid supposed to be on? is it supposed to be on anytime the motor is on or does it kick on only at engine start-up or what? and whenever it is on, does whatever relay it goes through provide the ground to it or the power? cause if it goes through a relay somewhere that isnt working and its supposed to provide the ground, then that could be why its not working. anybody know the electrical aspect of this before it gets to the solenoid?? i will try the things you suggested )blowing through it) and post my results. i ordered a vagcom cable last week but its not here yet so i wont be able to get any results like that yet.

 

You are chasing your tail. The evap purge valve only opens under specified conditions, usually when the vehicle is warm, the tank is between 1/4 and 3/4 full of gas, and the car is coasting off the highway. The evap purge valve will not give you the lean condition your car is telling you about without another code accompanying it (leak detected or improper purge). Look elsewhere.

 

but i did get another code this last time saying something about evap purge incorrect. and everytime i fill my gas tank up, it wont start for like 5 minutes and then all of a sudden it starts again, and then i dont have another problem until i put gas in it again. and i was reading other people having the same problem and they all said to check this purge valve.