Whats up all, My name is Brian. This is my first post, and I've read a lot of good stuff on this forum, there's a lot of people who know an ***-load about Audi. I don't know a lot (besides from what I learned here), but anyone who has a question about Nissan let me know

I'm a former VQ35 owner, due to some douche-bag drunk-driver I am now driving a 2.8 12v B5. I know, I didn't do enough research when I bought it. But, I bought it from some ricer (has the altezza tail lights) who was 16 and kept getting in trouble at school, so the parents sold me his car for $1500! lol. I had a lot of misgivings about it, but for $1500 I really don't care. The car is solid, and I did a compression test and I am only off 7% from nominal with a +/- 3% differential across the pistons, which sounds like a hell of a healthy engine to me, especially with 150k. But what the hell, I was in a pinch.

I've been driving it for a couple of months, its a sweet little car. I like it a lot. I can't wait for the first foot of snow we get, I've never driven an AWD, let along Audi's Quattro system, in the snow. I just bought 4 bilstein sport shocks, H&R springs, replaced all 4 wheel bearings (WTF!!! 1450 for all!!! lol) new window regulator, but I said screw the ABS control module, people drove for years w/o ABS lol. I was seriously considering purchasing an S4 engine and doing a swap (I stuffed a VQ35 into an 01 Maxima, before I bought my legit 03 VQ35 maxima SE) when I found out how un-moddable the 12v is (even less than the 30v), but I got a sweet deal on a 94 300z TT!!! That's my fun car now lol. I'm sorry, but you can't beat the nissan 6 cyl, I've had 3 of them and they are the most reliable engines out there IMO. But the VG30DE-TT is a different type of animal that you really can only appreciate if you have owned one.

Anyway, on to my question:

What is the best intake for my car?

Just Kidding!!!! I would love to read some of the flaming comments I would get lol.

In all seriousness, I feel as though I need to replace both engine banks exhaust sections from the header to the center muffler thingy. I have them on order, and I figured I might as well replace all 4 O2 sensors as well. Well, I was curious to know whether I had to use Bosh 4-wire sensor for $130 a piece, or will the generic 3-4 wire O2 for $30-$40 work? I didn't even think about that when I ordered the two sections of exhaust, and they will be here this week. At the moment, I am left a bit short of funds and would love to buy all 4 sensors for the price of one Bosch sensor; but I'll bite the bullet and buy Bosch if I absolutely have to. I have searched all over, and I know Bosch are the OEM sensors, but I haven't read one thing about whether or not Need to use them. Any help?

Thanks for your help in advance.....

-Brian

 

Wow. You would have save a lot of money by removing the wheel carriers and having new bearings pressed in...

Unfortunately, the Quattro's electronic diffs are operated via the ABS control module. If you want any of the traction control systems or EDL (electronic differential lock) to work and give you the most grip in poor weather, you'll need to fix the ABS.

Sounds like your flex pipes are bad. Common point of failure, along with the cats in the 12V's, which can be crazy expensive.

I highly recommend OE replacements to avoid check engine lights in these cars. Saving the cash now might end up in costly diagnostics later. There are places to buy them a bit cheaper, but the primary O2 sensors must be OE or direct OE replacements. The post-cat O2s can be generic without much issue.

 

Trust me, I know. I was in Singapore when I had the clutch done. The guy told me I needed a right-front wheel bearing, (probably because all 4 shocks were blown), so I just told him to do them all.



No ****, I didn't know that. So here is the problem. There is one ABS sensor must have some crap on it becuase when I hit the brakes and slow down, when I get to <10mph the ABS would fire, no matter what. So I just pulled the fuse to the ABS sensor and it brakes fine. I have a 97 12v, I wasn't aware that I had a TCS. So when the weather turns to crap I won't have a true AWD???



Yeah, It sounds like I have an exhaust leak where there is none. When I put the car on a lift and the engine was revved, I heard an exhaust-leak type of sound coming from the flex pipe, but there is no leak, go figure. I just ordered two sections including the flex and cats for $450 with shipping, which I didn't think was too bad. Was I wrong?

Thanks, I will do that then. If "Bank 2 Sensor 2" is bad, that means my driver-side post-cat is bad then, right? I guess I'll just get both fronts Bosch, do the post-cat's cheapies, then when I get the cash I'll get the Bosch's. I'm good with maintenance so I won't forget to get the OEM sensors when I get the dough. Thanks for your help

 

Ok, So If I buy 4 of thesehttp://www.autopartswarehouse.com/de...USOS-4000.html ,

I am asking for trouble? Really?

And I also would love a confirmation about the ABS control module controlling my locking diff, and if I don't have it (I pulled the fuse, but had the ABS/Brake light on anyway) I won't have true AWD in the snow?

Thanks

 

The Audi A4 does not have an electronic diff it’s just mechanical and the ABS as no control over it just the brakes.

 

Ok, Great. I was thinking that if this was the case, a lot of people on here wouldn't be driving with the ABS/Brake light on. I also would've thought I would've read that somewhere if it were the case.

Any thoughts on the above O2 sensors i posted the link for? I have to order something today, I don't want to have to reuse my old ones.

-Brian

 

the ABS activates the brake on one wheel when it starts to spin to force the power over to the other side of the differential. it is not a true electronic lockup of the differential but it gets the same job done. this function IS controlled by the ABS module.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electro...e_distribution


BTW you can probably just hold off entirely on the after-cat O2 sensors, they are only there to tell you if the CATs arent functioning and have no bearing on performance or gas mileage. just get two primary sensors.

 

Ok, sounds good. Though I have a code that says "Bank 2 Sensor 2 High Voltage, does that mean the cat is bad or the sensor is bad? I guess it doesnt really matter, I have to replace that one anyway to pass emissions in NY. It would be weird that the D side cat is bad, even though I get that exhaust-leak-type of sound from the P-side near the cat & flex pipe, even though there is no leak. I would've thought that Bank 2 is Passenger, but from what I've read its Driver side.

So from what I've read, Bank 2 = Driver Side; Sensor 2 = Post-Cat.

I have to use Bosch front O2 sensors, and can use uni's for the rear. Thats what I'm going to do, so if anyone has any objections please

 

bank 1 always = the side with cylinder # 1 on it, as you look at the car from the front that would be the left bank (passengers side) im pretty sure.

 

FWIW we put a generic $70 four-wire on a 2000 Passat 30v to fix a fault and has been performing flawlessly. I'll probably go the same route on my car when the time comes - it's worked fine.

Oh and welcome to AF from another former VG30DETT owner (stage 6 converted 2+2TT). I agree on that car - you have to live with one to appreciate it. My favorite engine of all I've owned