Fair enough. I didn't mean any insult.

Just, When a mechanic says i replaced a gasket here and part there and I had to pull such and such out to get to it (which are not clearly visible)...and it took me so many hours I get suspicious. Its just my negative view of mechanics in general I guess.

If your seen your engine pulled apart then fair enough.

Yeah, the guy who sold you the car screwed you. I bet he tried and tried to have the problem fixed then just gave up and sold the car the a**hole.

 

I wasn't insulted. I just should've clarified.

Problem is, I can't find any evidence against the guy I bought the car from, or else I would take him to court for not disclosing all the information.

 

Worked on my car all weekend. Still not done though. It was a bit more work than I realized it was going to be. Almost done putting everything back together. Taking the oil pan off definitely is not for the weak. I have a friend with a lift in his shop and so I had it on the lift, put a jack under the car with a pole on it so it could reach up to the engine and placed it under the engine, then took off the engine mounts, jacked up the engine, and let the subframe sag down. Provided the clearance necessary to get the oil pan off. Took awhile to think of this though.

 

Well everyone, today was the big day. I finished my car, put on the new oil filter and some mobil 1 oil, and drove it home from the shop and BAM, that red light of death came on right on schedule. And the oil pump I took off of there, brand spanking new, just like the dealer said. Lets check this off my list and move on to what should I try next?

Someone suggested 1/3 seafoam in gas tank, 1/3 in oil, and 1/3 in vacuum lines. I've been doing the first two, but the third one i've never heard of. Any comments on this method and how I should do it?

 

Interesting story. I am surprised (and sorry to hear) that the new oil pump pickup did not solve your problem. On the other hand, one thing in the earlier post regarding the stripped bolts and poor installation of the rear main seal makes me wonder what else this guy got into trying to fix it. Low oil pressure could be caused by a restriction in supply, (oil pickup tube/clogged filter) or too little restriction downstream, as in too much clearance in the crankshaft bearings, etc. The dealer already verified that the cam and crank clearances looked good, but I suspect that something else was not reinstalled correctly. As I said, who knows what else the previous owner attempted. It's just a stab in the dark though, the only way you will know for sure is to have it rebuilt professionally. I hope someone else can give you better insight as far as cheaper alternatives or ideas. I don't think the seafoam in the vac lines will help.

 

Seafoam won't do anything for you at this point. Like i said in your PM you need to actually VERIFY the oil pressure with a manual gauge by threading in one where the sender is threaded in on the back of the oil cooler. See what your idle oil pressure is, 2,000 rpms, and 4,000 rpms. If your pressure at idle is below 30 psi then there is a major problem. Like the poster above me stated, there is something either restricting the flow in the oil cooler or a passage on the lower half of the engine. I hope to god that the clearances are OK (dealers really don't check these, we just look for scoring) because that WOULD mean your engine is toast. Im still crossing my fingers for a blockage at the oil cooler.

 

Okay. I will be checking my oil pressure with a manual gauge ASAP. Hopefully it's my oil cooler. The dealer did mention in the inspection notes that there was a leak at my oil cooler. I hope that is a sign!

 

Terrynt what u have right now on your car happend to me long time ago but not on an audi , and to fix the issue the engine had to be desmenteld and the problem was oil passages blocked with gunk and nothing would clean'it , the car was a 95 lexus ls400 and i had to send the block to a machine shop to be cleaned after that the engine was like new , so ..... i am sorry for you.

 

Well that wouldn't be the end of the world actually, it would be some labor but its easy enough to pull the cams and crank shaft out, brake clean the hell out of everything and change out the bearings. If he did it himself he could do the repair for less than $200. Now if the clearances in the engine are bad, its best to buy a new engine.....which WOULD suck.

 

He will need some tools 2-3 12 packs and a lot of patience but at least he will know if the clearences are goone he will look for another engine and if not the cleaning will take care of his oil pressure problem