I feel bad for you. its currently 85 degrees here in sunny San diego

 

Possibly the valve cover gasket

 

Well if it was that and it was squirting like he says, then it would have to be all over the intake manifold which its unclear if it was or not, but oil isn't really pressurized in the valve cover like that. It's more likely to squirt from something on the cooler.

 

Sounds toasty warm... I don't think it cleared the teens here today...

As for the oil leak, I'm with most everyone else here. Pressurized oil squirting out, my guess is the cooler or a gasket on the cooler.

As for a test pipe, I'm pretty sure you won't pass emissions, because you won't be cleaning any exhaust, so all the bad stuff will still be there, unless they just plug into the OBD and scan for codes, then you should get away with a test pipe from ecstuning.com and the antifouler trick. But IMHO, a high flow cat would be a better option for you.

Good luck...

 

Thanks guys. I looked at the engine bay last night and it looks like the intake manifold is clean, didn't get a peek under it though. Took a look at where I had the car parked before I drove it and this whole fiasco happened, and there is a huge puddle where the engine would have been above. There is also a huge streak of oil tracing where I backed out, and where I pulled out. I'm talking about a streak that's at least 6 inches wide. This streak goes on for several hundred feet up until the entrance to my apartment complex, which is when the oil level light came on. I bought the oil cooler and the rubber o-ring gasket yesterday, along with the oil pressure sensor and the valve cover gasket set (perimeter and interior gaskets). I'll update when I know more.

As far as the test pipe goes, can somebody point me towards the anti-fouler trick in a thread or tell me about it? As far as I've seen, the test pipes are half the cost of a hi-flow cat, and being a broke college student, budget is always a factor.

As for emissions, NC policy is that if the vehicle is 10 years old or older, inspection just consists of a safety inspection (read: mechanical). So I don't think they'll be pulling out the sniffer.

 

If you intend to replace the oil cooler, you're going to be opening your coolant system and will need some coolant to replace what comes out. The oil cooler has coolant running through it to cool the oil. (Also of note is that if the cooler breaks internally, the two can mix which is very bad)

 

Well guys, I finally got the oil cooler replaced. I broke the oil dipstick tube in the process, but fortunately it's only 3 bucks at Washburn Racing. If you're ever in the Raleigh/Cary area and need help/work with your VAG car, definitely hit them up. Sean is top notch. So anyways, back to the point. The car is fixed, and now I just have to find a high flow cat, and save up for my t-belt service. Anybody know if the kevlar t-belt kit offered through RAI is worth it? Black Forest Industries said that there's really no difference between a kevlar belt and the regular one.

 

Glad its fixed. Did the cooler actually fail? Why did you end up replacing it and not just the gaskets. And if I'm not mistaken, the kevlar rai belt is not for aeb's.

 

I don't have personal experience on this topic, but most everywhere I read people say it's no necessarily the belt that fails, but the tensioner. So if the OEM belt holds up, then I would suggest saving money and sticking with the OEM belt.

And if my memory serves correctly, I too think I remember reading that they don't make the kevlar timing belt for AEB.

 

I definitely misspoke. It was the rubber gasket on the block side of the oil cooler, the oil cooler itself is fine. However, while my dad and I were in there, we replaced the old OC with a brand new one.