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  #1  
Old 09-24-2011, 11:29 AM
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should i just try to do it myself?

i dont wanna pay 75 bucks for the dealer to do it but with the dealer i get tire rotation lol

i shouldnt let any chain oil change place touch her right?
 
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Old 09-24-2011, 12:54 PM
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Last edited by foxracing4500; 01-13-2024 at 12:05 AM.
  #3  
Old 09-24-2011, 01:09 PM
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whats the jack for? i can get under the front without it jacked up last time i looked under there

i think im going to just change it myself
 
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Old 09-26-2011, 10:47 AM
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why would you not do it yourself? lol saving atleast 50 bucks and its not any harder than doing it on a honda. and its only 75$ for the dealer to do??? i payed 80 at jiffy lube once. but now i hate that place i wouldnt let anyone do them but me
 
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Old 09-26-2011, 11:07 AM
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Originally Posted by raudi28
why would you not do it yourself? lol saving atleast 50 bucks and its not any harder than doing it on a honda. and its only 75$ for the dealer to do??? i payed 80 at jiffy lube once. but now i hate that place i wouldnt let anyone do them but me
Took my car to one last winter because it was cold and i didn't feel like laying in the slush in the parking lot to change my oil, that will never ever happen again. I asked for full synthetic and the big filter and got dino oil and the small one. They also put my drain plug back in with a god damn impact gun, and without the sealing washer so it leaked. Then the guy comes up to the counter with two arms full of parts that they took off my car, and i almost had a stroke.

OP, this is 100% absolutely a DIY job. Take your time, be careful, and make sure you don't go nuts putting the oil pan drain plug back in. Torque spec for it is <20 ft./lbs IIRC. The oil pan is cast aluminum so if you go storm trooper when you put the plug back in you could strip the threads or crack the pan and then you're in for it.
 
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Old 09-26-2011, 07:38 PM
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what oil filter should i get? like any brand thats better then the next?

and oil is 5w-40 or stick with the 0-40
 
  #7  
Old 09-26-2011, 08:07 PM
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I have been running since about 20k miles, Valvoline full synthetic 10-30w in my pathfinder, its at 125k now running like new.

I just got the audi 2.5 months ago, lady said she always had full synthetic put in at the shops but who knows if thats true ( shops put in BS because women usually won't know ), but i currently have 0-30w Mobil1 Full Synthetic and a Mobil1 Filter.

I can definitely vouch for Mobil1 or Valvoline Full Synthetics as i have been using them the most in all my cars.

Also filters, Mobil1, Purolator Classic and Purolator Pureone are very good ones.
 
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Old 09-26-2011, 11:43 PM
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I would only use a Mann filter, I bought a mobil 1 filter out of laziness once and it was just over half the size of the mann filter that was on my car already. Plus they're the OEM supplier for just about every german car.
 
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Old 09-26-2011, 11:48 PM
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My mobil1 is the big version of the 1.8T filters... i guess it depends which one you got
 
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Old 09-27-2011, 06:36 AM
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Originally Posted by Mad Cow
I would only use a Mann filter, I bought a mobil 1 filter out of laziness once and it was just over half the size of the mann filter that was on my car already. Plus they're the OEM supplier for just about every german car.
I think it depends on what year your car is and what version of the application guide they've got, I know Audi changed the specs for the filter size and oil change interval when it became apparent that the 1.8T had a sludge problem

Originally Posted by 01quattro
My mobil1 is the big version of the 1.8T filters... i guess it depends which one you got
Mine too, I use Mobil1's "extended performance" filter and its ginormous.
 


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