I have a 2001 A4 1.8t with 117000 miles. Awhile back, maybe a year or so I got a grinding sound coming from the engine during start up. I took it to a local mechanic, I live in Atlanta, and he said it was the chain tensioner (sp) and it would not cause any problems -- it would just make the awful rattling noise at start up, that's it.

Recently, however, and I mean over the last 3 weeks, the rattling sound has gotten much, much worse. It seems to do it whenever the engine heats up. Additionally, it's very loud at low speeds. At the same time, my low oil pressure icon has flashed on.

I got a quote to fix the tensioner: $1800.00. Don't know if that's bad or good but it's more than I have right now. A couple of buddies of mine who know cars say, don't fix it. The say just put some 40 weight oil in the car and ride it out...meaning the cost is not worth fixing. So, here's my question, keep in mind I am not mechanical. 1) Can I put 40 weight in and will it harm the engine and will it do any good? 2) Is $1800 a reasonable price to fix the tensioner? and finally 3) is the low oil pressure a faulty sensor or related to the tensioner issue?

I would really appreciate whatever help anyone can provide.

 

You should be using 40 weight oil anyway but it's not going to help that at all. And no, $1800 is nowhere near a good price to fix a cam chain tensioner. I'm not a professional mechanic and I did mine in 1-2 hours.

However, I'm thinking you've got sludge issues. That will kill your oil pressure and cause the chain tensioner to wear more and make more noise. If so, you will need to thoroughly clean or replace the screen in the oil pickup tube and manually clean your oil pan and what you can under the valve cover, and then run several cleaning cycles of AutoRX and/or Seafoam. You should pull out all sensors that have oil touching them and clean them off as well. You probably do need to replace the cam chain tensioner now that it's worn.

Well, anyway, pull off your valve cover and have a look. Remember to get new gaskets for it. Also, if you do the cam chain tensioner, make sure to replace the half moon seal back there (or if you have the tensioner done, make sure that seal is done).

Have you been using good oil and doing oil changes on time?

 

Dragon, been doing pretty regular changes every 3000-5000 miles. I have been going by the manual which suggests, I believe, 5W and 10W weight? Question, can a relatively inexperienced person clean the "sludge issues"? Also, What's a good price for replacing the tensioner? Like I said, I am pretty inexperienced with this stuff.

 

I am in ATL and I found a solid mechanic (former Dealership guy) that works Audis and VWs that I think did a great job. Did the timing belt etc. change for me and at about half the price of dealer. PM me if you want his info. Obviously no guarantees, but I trusted him. Did a few other repairs as well for me as well.

 

Also, just so I understand. You are saying that by cleaning the 1) screen in the oil pick up tool 2) manually clean the oil pan 3) clean what I can under the valve cover then 4) run AtutoRx and/or Seafoam that should reduce the noise? Also, I can replace the can chain tensioner in 2 hours or so?

 

Eh i dunno if that would reduce the noise, but that would fix the root problem that caused the noise (and would ultimately cause the demise of your engine)

To get rid of the noise you're going to have to replace the tensioner. Not sure why the original mechanic didn't have you replace it-or at least recommend that it be replaced soon-when it started making the noise in the first place...

 

I was thinking about this question last night, but I forgot to mention that indeed you may have to get into the timing belt if you do this. I did mine by removing the intake cam and by loosening but not removing the exhaust cam, so I didn't mess with the timing. But if you were to do it, you'd want to turn the engine to get the cam timing mark aligned, and then put a mark with white-out on the timing belt to line up with the timing mark to make sure that the timing hasn't jumped after lifting the rear end of the exhaust cam. If it does, you'd then need to get into timing belt realignment which will make the job several times longer.

 

Dragon, also you are saying put 40w-30 into the engine? After, I de-sludge?

Not sure how confident I am replacing the cam, like i said, I don't do engines -if it was a computer issue no problem, I really have never worked on engines. Is there some type of guide to do it?

 

nooooo, 0w40. Or German Castrol (Castrol Syntec European Formula from Autozone) 0w30 which is closer to a 40 weight.

If you don't want to do the work then just find a better quote.

 

Dragon, little confused, isn't that a "thin" oil? My buddies said use a super heavy weight of oil like 20w-30 or 30w-40 and that might help reduce the noise? Second, what would you imagine a fair price to be for replacing the cam? Thanks for all your help. Second question, is this work doable for someone inexperienced with cars?