the revs only bounce when i first take it out of gear. they bounce between 600-1k and then settle ~900.

 

bump

 

The cel's are stored in the ecu, they dont just clear when you disconnect the battery.
And as far as the revs bouncing, soundslike a vac leak. Check to see if you silicone couplers have any holes in them, and that they are tight. If you do, upgrade to 2.5" radiator hose for semi-trucks. You can get it at Napa. That is what I used. And it is impossible to break. I am pretty sure that you will bust a hole in a pipe before you bust a hole in that stuff.

Oh, who do you have for tuning? Some tunes are poorly designed and will bounce at idle also.......

 

im using 4-ply silicon connectors from 034, and they are definitely in perfect condition. also the revs didn't bounce when i first put the fmic on, just after i did the snub mount, which seems weird. but then i realized my maf was disconnected(electronically) when i started the car. could that have caused it? and why did the CEL disappear? at first it didn't, but then i started the car again and it was gone. i guess the codes might still be in there. i'll go to autozone and have them clear them, ebay vag can't clear codes[:'(]

and its TAP tuning. but my car didn't use to do this

 

and i thought if you disconnected the battery and turned on the interior lights to drain away the rest of the power it would clear the ecu's memory. it worked on my friends b6

 

So, the idle was unstable before disconnecting the battery? Because I used to get have a really unstable idle that the TBA wouldn't fix (does that work on nDBW cars anyway?) until I cleaned the throttle body. That job was a pain and the only appreciable difference is that now the TBA seems to actually work, but it might be worth trying.

 

Dude, I told you that 034 mount and snub made the idle real shaky. You really notice it when you have your window half way down and can see it rattling, lol. One little trick I do when it bothers me is to give it just enough gas to go from 800 to 1000 rpms then the vibrations go away. It uses up a little more fuel but whatever. I am going to try adjusting the height of the mount this spring or whenever it warms up, to see if I can fix the vibrations.If I have any luck at it, I'll let you know for sure. Did you talk toLOWA4, bc hehas the same034 snub/mount as we do?

Any extra vibrations noticed from the engine/trans mounts?
Good luck with the engine revving, I have no suggestions except check for vac leak, check yourdv to make sure it isn't dirty or stuck open a bit at idle (maybepushing that 28 lbs+ of boost that one time did something that isshowing up now?).Let me know if codes come back after you clear them again.

 

i love the tranny and engine mounts. when you hit bumps in the road, you feel it more, but shifting is so much smoother, there is 0 slop, everything feels so much more solid.

my bov is fine, i think its either a vac leak or the codes still being stored in my ecu. gona go to autozone to get them cleared, then check all the check valves and such.

 

So what was involved, how much of a pain in the a$$ was it to do the rest of the mounts (not includingthe snub)? How long did it take you (minus the time waiting for the new transmission mount brackets thatbroke)?

 

there's DIY articles on AW. if i had to do it again, probly 2 hours to do it all. doing it the first time took ~3-4 hours. the tranny mounts are a bigger pain in the *** than the engine mounts. on the passenger side mount there's a bolt hidden under some heatshielding, other than that its simple. for the driver side mount, the bolt that connects to the bracket (the one that broke on mine) is a beeyotch to get at and you'll need a hex socket. and even though the DIY says you can get the bracket and mount in as one piece, i couldn't find a way too an just had to install them seperately. the motor mounts are simple, just gotta undo the front sway partially, and then get at a nut from the top. on the passenger side this can be tricky, but not all that hard. you just gotta remove the intake