Car: 1998 Audi A4 Quattro, 5 spd, 130k miles, chipped, exhaust, apr dv, apr intake hoses, carbino intake

Clutch and flywheel were replaced with OEM audi parts 8,000 miles ago. First clutch/flywheel lasted 120,000+ miles.

The problem:
First noticed it while getting on the highway. While accelerating up to speed in third gear, the clutch basically gave out/slipped completely after 3500 rpms. The same occurred in 4th and 5th gear. In these gears it basically felt like there was no clutch after 3500 rpms, it just spun through with no acceleration increase. Slipping is not as apparent in 1st and second gear but it seems as if it does a tiny bit (if I power shift it will slip quite noticeably in 2nd).

But the clutch has only 8,000 miles on it. I just don't see how it could be worn already. I took it to the shop who did the first clutch and they confirmed that it seems I need a new clutch. The only thing they could come up with was that the OEM clutch couldn't handle the power of the mods. I drive the car fine (first clutch lasted me 120k miles) and I don't push it very hard too often.

Could my mods have been too much for a stock audi clutch to handle?
I didn't think a 50hp/torque increase over stock (my estimate) would cause an OEM clutch to fail after only 8k.

I currently have the following codes:
P0401 - EGR flow insufficient
P0171 – System too lean Bank 1
P0174 - system too lean Bank 2
P0300 – Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected
P0302 – Cylinder 2 Misfire
P0303 – Cylinder 3 Misfire

I am pretty sure it is a vacuum leak around the egr valve, my MAF sensor, or a failing egr valve (or all 3). Also, my e-brake light is flashing and abs light is on due to failing ABS control module.

Could any of these also have caused my clutch problem (if it is in fact the clutch)?
(Although I am pretty sure the clutch problems came before the CEL came on).

If/when I get a new clutch it will be a performance clutch. Any suggestions on what to get given my current mods?

Thanks in advance!

 

none of those codes have anything to do with the clutch/transmission. Have you been launching the stock clutch? I recommend a south bend stage 4

 

it was probably installed wrong. the shop failed. 50 more tq will not do that to a new oem clutch

 

Could it just need an adjustment? Bleed it? If the shop doesn't stand behind the work that's BS. If they pull the clutch apart that failed after 8k wouldn't it be burned up / glazed???

 

Could just be a defective OEM clutch.


We have Southbend and Clutch Masters clutch kits on our site at discounted prices and free shipping in the 48 states, we also offer discounted shipping world wide. I can also get Spec clutch kits for those that want it.

Since no one else has asked, you own a 2.8 right?

If you do own a 2.8 you will most likely want a Southbend Stage 3 OFE HD that we offer which is modified by Southbend to have more clamping pressure and will hold more power then the standard Stage 3 they sell. The SB Stage 4 for the 2.8 uses a FE disk, this means the Stage 4 for the 2.8 is more like the Stage 5 they offer for the 1.8T.

 

Oops sorry i forgot to mention that. I actually have a 1.8t.

I have launched it a few times, but usually no.

 

They you posted an incorrect code that was thrown. If you are a 1.8t you can not have a lean "bank 2" reading. Thats the reason I thought you might have a 2.8