Need a proffesional, semi-proffesional, or highly educated opinion
#1
Need a proffesional, semi-proffesional, or highly educated opinion
I'm pretty positive one or some of my coil packs are gone, flashing CEL, car seems to want to die when I'm not on the gas, run very sloppy all around, I haven't had the chance to get it scanned as I'm too afraid to drive it to autozone and I don't have a scanner. So my question is am I right in my thinking or could there be other things or a way to make sure it is the coil pack. I heard something about taking them out one by one and seeing if the car starts to die and if it does then those are good ones and if it stays the same thats a bad one.
thanks for any help
( its a 99 1.8t )
Edit: dumb me spelt professional wrong twice in the topic line
thanks for any help
( its a 99 1.8t )
Edit: dumb me spelt professional wrong twice in the topic line
Last edited by Clickyurdead; 05-01-2009 at 03:11 AM. Reason: typos
#3
not a profesional, or semi-pro.... maybe educated; but anyways!
yeah take them out one by one. they should make a pretty good diff... if one coilpack (or could be more) doesnt then thats the bad one.
another thing you can do is just replace the sparkplugs. its easy and cheap to do. maybe that'll fix ur problem.
but at this point it could be a number of things.
the spark plugs is just probably the cheapest/easiest place to start!! (at least till u get the codes)
yeah take them out one by one. they should make a pretty good diff... if one coilpack (or could be more) doesnt then thats the bad one.
another thing you can do is just replace the sparkplugs. its easy and cheap to do. maybe that'll fix ur problem.
but at this point it could be a number of things.
the spark plugs is just probably the cheapest/easiest place to start!! (at least till u get the codes)
#4
2 reasons you need to scan the codes are:
1- it will tell you which cylinder(s) is misfiring
2- it will confirm it is the coil pack and not the ICM that is bad.
you can sit around all day and guess and make threads about it, or you can actually get the tools required and fix it in 20 minuets. your choice.
1- it will tell you which cylinder(s) is misfiring
2- it will confirm it is the coil pack and not the ICM that is bad.
you can sit around all day and guess and make threads about it, or you can actually get the tools required and fix it in 20 minuets. your choice.
#5
2 reasons you need to scan the codes are:
1- it will tell you which cylinder(s) is misfiring
2- it will confirm it is the coil pack and not the ICM that is bad.
you can sit around all day and guess and make threads about it, or you can actually get the tools required and fix it in 20 minuets. your choice.
1- it will tell you which cylinder(s) is misfiring
2- it will confirm it is the coil pack and not the ICM that is bad.
you can sit around all day and guess and make threads about it, or you can actually get the tools required and fix it in 20 minuets. your choice.
thanks for the help
#7
really? idk it'd run w/o the maf....
#8
if the MAF was connected but not working, the ECU assumes it is working and gets an inaccurate reading. if you disconnect it the ECU knows its disconnected and runs off preprogramed software until you reconnect the MAF. that is the reason why if you disconnect the MAF and the car runs better, you know the MAF is sending bad information.
#9
Your situation sounds a little different from what i had, but my Engine coolant temp sensor ended up being the answer. My car would run really rough and when i had it scanned it said it was miss firing in every cylinder and running lean on bank 1 and the camshaft position was off. I looked into this after i changed the plugs and it still was having these issues as the ECTS is like $23 from the dealer. These have been known to cause 1.8T's to act up so it may be worth looking into if plugs and the MAF dont do the trick.