My car sounds supercharged, but it's not. HELP!
#12
When did it start making noise, after any noticable adjustments? Did you recently replace your timing belt? My other car 97 prelude had issues with the T-belt auto tensioner overtightening the the belt. Produced a sound the way you describe it (rpm dependant and supercharger sound), this was common in happening for Honda prelude auto tensioners.
#14
I've got this whining sound... It sounds EXACTLY like boostlover posted on the bottom of the first page. I still have 30,000km left for another t-belt change. The only difference between my car and the one in the video is I have a V6, no turbos or a supercharger.
At first I thought it sounded cool, but now im getting worried. Any thoughts?
It is directly related to the RPM, on any gear, or in neutral.
At first I thought it sounded cool, but now im getting worried. Any thoughts?
It is directly related to the RPM, on any gear, or in neutral.
#15
Last edited by vgo; 05-15-2011 at 04:24 PM.
#17
how long have you had that sound for?
Someone from another forum said its the alternator. If it is, it would explain how my voltage would drop close to 12V during winter when I have every single electronic in and out of the car on.
Someone from another forum said its the alternator. If it is, it would explain how my voltage would drop close to 12V during winter when I have every single electronic in and out of the car on.
#20
So it turns out it was the serpentine belt tensioner that was causing the whining sound.
This is what I did to repair this. I am not responsible for any damages if one wishes to follow my write up.
*** a few pictures arent mine...i was too lazy to go back and take other pictures.
Item:
1 v6 2.8 serpentine belt tensioner from ebay. $70 shipped.
Tools used:
- you have better luck if you have thinner arms. It was pretty damn tight
- Torque Wrench (breaker bar if you have one)
- 17mm socket wrench
- Flat head and philips screwdriver (and a stubby philips screwdriver too)
- vice grip or bench vice or channel locks if you got really strong hands (you'll see what you'll use it for later)
1. Turn engine off. Pop open hood and let it cool off. If you are impatient and start removing the tensioner you'll find out it is pretty hot.
2. Remove the engine plastic cover using the screwdriver and strip off the weather stripping around the front.
3. Remove the 2 screws (circled in red) from the air intake. Remove air intake.
4. Remove the 1 philip screw using the stuby screwdriver on the electric fan. Careful not to strip it. There are some wires wedged into some channels of the fan. Pry them out so it gives out slack so you are able to move the fan away later.
5. Now remove the hose, which i believe goes to the SAI. Wiggle the circle in red, down and away from the circle in green. Put it off to the side or use something to hold it away from where you want access.
6. Back to the fan...There is this tab... Right at the very bottom...Circle in red. You have to pinch that. My arm managed to get far enough down there... You have to pinch it, WHILE you turn the fan counter-clockwise.
7. This picture is a close up of what you want it to do...When you pinch or move the tab to that direction, it brings up the little latch so it will free the fan and allowing it to rotate counter-clockwise.
8. Position the fan away from where you want access...You cant really disconnect it. There are cables that you just have to fiddle around to unclip from mounting clips allowing you to move it away.
******BEFORE REMOVING BELT. BE SURE YOU KNOW WHERE THE BELT LOOPS ON WHICH PULLEYS******
9. The red circled area is the tensioner. Place the 17mm socket wrench where circled in the green and turn as shown. This will relieve pressure permitting you to remove the serpentine belt. It is easier if you have someone holding the wrench while you remove the belt. (I didnt really took it out of the engine...I just put it aside. If you take it out, they say to mark it which direction so you can put it back to what it was)
10. Now take your 10mm allan key and remove the single bolt from the tensioner. (When putting back the new tensioner, the specified torque is 18ft/lbs. I do it just a tad tighter just in case my torque wrench is off.)
11. Remove tensioner from engine bay.
12. New and Old tensioner. On the new tensioner, there is a little pin that you have to remove (circled in red). Use a vice grip to squeeze the 2 holes together so you can push out the pin. BE CAREFUL when you remove the vice grip. When i removed mine, the tensioner snapped into place. I would have preferred that it didnt....
13. Install you tensioner, install belt, and put everything back together. Make sure you remove ALL tools before starting your engine...
This is what I did to repair this. I am not responsible for any damages if one wishes to follow my write up.
*** a few pictures arent mine...i was too lazy to go back and take other pictures.
Item:
1 v6 2.8 serpentine belt tensioner from ebay. $70 shipped.
Tools used:
- you have better luck if you have thinner arms. It was pretty damn tight
- Torque Wrench (breaker bar if you have one)
- 17mm socket wrench
- Flat head and philips screwdriver (and a stubby philips screwdriver too)
- vice grip or bench vice or channel locks if you got really strong hands (you'll see what you'll use it for later)
1. Turn engine off. Pop open hood and let it cool off. If you are impatient and start removing the tensioner you'll find out it is pretty hot.
2. Remove the engine plastic cover using the screwdriver and strip off the weather stripping around the front.
3. Remove the 2 screws (circled in red) from the air intake. Remove air intake.
4. Remove the 1 philip screw using the stuby screwdriver on the electric fan. Careful not to strip it. There are some wires wedged into some channels of the fan. Pry them out so it gives out slack so you are able to move the fan away later.
5. Now remove the hose, which i believe goes to the SAI. Wiggle the circle in red, down and away from the circle in green. Put it off to the side or use something to hold it away from where you want access.
6. Back to the fan...There is this tab... Right at the very bottom...Circle in red. You have to pinch that. My arm managed to get far enough down there... You have to pinch it, WHILE you turn the fan counter-clockwise.
7. This picture is a close up of what you want it to do...When you pinch or move the tab to that direction, it brings up the little latch so it will free the fan and allowing it to rotate counter-clockwise.
8. Position the fan away from where you want access...You cant really disconnect it. There are cables that you just have to fiddle around to unclip from mounting clips allowing you to move it away.
******BEFORE REMOVING BELT. BE SURE YOU KNOW WHERE THE BELT LOOPS ON WHICH PULLEYS******
9. The red circled area is the tensioner. Place the 17mm socket wrench where circled in the green and turn as shown. This will relieve pressure permitting you to remove the serpentine belt. It is easier if you have someone holding the wrench while you remove the belt. (I didnt really took it out of the engine...I just put it aside. If you take it out, they say to mark it which direction so you can put it back to what it was)
10. Now take your 10mm allan key and remove the single bolt from the tensioner. (When putting back the new tensioner, the specified torque is 18ft/lbs. I do it just a tad tighter just in case my torque wrench is off.)
11. Remove tensioner from engine bay.
12. New and Old tensioner. On the new tensioner, there is a little pin that you have to remove (circled in red). Use a vice grip to squeeze the 2 holes together so you can push out the pin. BE CAREFUL when you remove the vice grip. When i removed mine, the tensioner snapped into place. I would have preferred that it didnt....
13. Install you tensioner, install belt, and put everything back together. Make sure you remove ALL tools before starting your engine...
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11-16-2010 09:46 PM