letting your car idle to warm up
#23
Must warm up. Stupid hippies. I left a friend's house Sunday at around 1:00am & my dash therm read -20f. I went back to check the "official" thermometer to verify & it read -23f.
What if I had follwed the misguided directives of the greenies?
I'll tell you; I wouldn't have 240,000 miles on the original k03.
What if I had follwed the misguided directives of the greenies?
I'll tell you; I wouldn't have 240,000 miles on the original k03.
#24
You know, my tranny does the exact same thing. I wonder if all the 99.5's do this?
#25
I give the car a minute or so idling (wait for the revs to drop) then take off. My stuck thermostat doesn't allow the engine to fully warm up anyway but I have to wait for the weather to warm up a little bit before I can change it out.
#26
When your engine is cold, it builds condensation when first started just like a glass of icewater in the summertime. At idle the engine is not breathing well enough to rid itself of all that condensation which forms.
The best policy is to drive the car, let it pull at LOW rpm's until the engine warms. This allows the evap system to work thus getting rid of the condensation.
Also, This I'm not sure of (someone please correct me if I'm wrong), but don't Audi's equipped with a turbo have an auxiliry oil pump which runs for a set time after the car is shut off to assist in turbo cooling? I'm pretty sure they do.
Ken
The best policy is to drive the car, let it pull at LOW rpm's until the engine warms. This allows the evap system to work thus getting rid of the condensation.
Also, This I'm not sure of (someone please correct me if I'm wrong), but don't Audi's equipped with a turbo have an auxiliry oil pump which runs for a set time after the car is shut off to assist in turbo cooling? I'm pretty sure they do.
Ken
#27
When your engine is cold, it builds condensation when first started just like a glass of icewater in the summertime. At idle the engine is not breathing well enough to rid itself of all that condensation which forms.
The best policy is to drive the car, let it pull at LOW rpm's until the engine warms. This allows the evap system to work thus getting rid of the condensation.
Also, This I'm not sure of (someone please correct me if I'm wrong), but don't Audi's equipped with a turbo have an auxiliry oil pump which runs for a set time after the car is shut off to assist in turbo cooling? I'm pretty sure they do.
Ken
The best policy is to drive the car, let it pull at LOW rpm's until the engine warms. This allows the evap system to work thus getting rid of the condensation.
Also, This I'm not sure of (someone please correct me if I'm wrong), but don't Audi's equipped with a turbo have an auxiliry oil pump which runs for a set time after the car is shut off to assist in turbo cooling? I'm pretty sure they do.
Ken
Anyone care to clarify?
#28
I'm glad this post caught some attention on here. I never even realized there were so many "anti-idling" organizations out there, they need to get a life. Someone from audiforums with a reputable background should write whoever wrote this article and rip'em a good one. Also, the mechanic that endorsed that article should be punched in the face... NOT ALL CARS ARE CREATED EQUAL! (whoever it was that asked me where I'm from I don't remember who you are but, Illinois)
#29
First of all this forum is predominantly east coasters, being from the west coast and specifically CA, even more specifically the bay area we don't get freezing temperatures on the reg.
That being said, I do not "idle" the engine for more time than it takes me to pop my radio in, buckle up, and drive off.
Just as you will be hard pressed to find an academic article espousing that not warming up the motor before driving causes damage, you will be hard pressed to find an academic article that says that warming up the motor by idling is better than reserved driving to warm it up.
How many cases of broken motor due to driving off too quickly do we see? I have yet to see one.
Of all the people that own cars in this country and the world, how many do you think warm up their motor every time by idling? I would wager an insignificant number. So why don't we hear about more engine failure do to a lack of warming up?
Do not take this as me advocating that you get in your car in freezing temperatures and slam through 5 gears at full boost. I stay out of boost until my temp gauge is at 12.
More care should be taken to ensure that a boosted car is up to temperature before getting into boost. However, can you tell me why a turbo car should be idled to be warmed up more so than an N/A car?
And you believe that reason is because idling a couple hundred rpm higher is to aid in warming the motor? Doubtful.
Pretty sure you meant to say that it needs to be plugged in if being used for more than 20 hours. Though I'm not sure why would ever need to keep the block warm for more than 20 hours, talk about a waste of energy.
I cede again that I do not live in the coldest of climates.
Don't you think that if the car does that from the factory, that maybe they did it for a reason, and that your overriding it is unnecessary?
Back when I had a 91 RX7, if you started the car in neutral it would automatically shoot right up to 3000rpm for about 10-15 seconds before lowering to 1000rpm or so. Of course not the same example, but they designed it that way for a reason.
Can you present an academic/scientific article that shows the perceived benefits of idling to warm up outweigh the known and factual downsides?
When the car is idling it "working" less in terms of load on the engine, but it also running very inefficiently. There is nothing more inefficient than generating energy by the combustion of fuels only to generate heat and waste that does not translate into movement and utilization of the energy. (No I do not turn my car off at every stoplight.)
Or you could not beat on the motor for the last mile or two to your destination and eliminate the wasted time and energy of a short and most likely ineffectual "cool off" time.
Get in your car and drive it. Don't beat on it until it is warmed up and you will be fine.
The FUD surrounding this topic is astounding.
That being said, I do not "idle" the engine for more time than it takes me to pop my radio in, buckle up, and drive off.
Just as you will be hard pressed to find an academic article espousing that not warming up the motor before driving causes damage, you will be hard pressed to find an academic article that says that warming up the motor by idling is better than reserved driving to warm it up.
How many cases of broken motor due to driving off too quickly do we see? I have yet to see one.
Of all the people that own cars in this country and the world, how many do you think warm up their motor every time by idling? I would wager an insignificant number. So why don't we hear about more engine failure do to a lack of warming up?
Do not take this as me advocating that you get in your car in freezing temperatures and slam through 5 gears at full boost. I stay out of boost until my temp gauge is at 12.
More care should be taken to ensure that a boosted car is up to temperature before getting into boost. However, can you tell me why a turbo car should be idled to be warmed up more so than an N/A car?
I cede again that I do not live in the coldest of climates.
im gonna go out on a whim here but....
ideally if your car is NOT warmed up you drive at higher RPMs thus burning more fuel and make a thicker exhaust or w/e releasing more chemicals into the atmosphere...
when your car is idle the engine works much less and emits a lot less harmful chemicals correct?
so ideally wouldn't either way really just be about the same?
now i understand a car idling for a half hour, would burn much more fuel then taking off at a higher RPM for a few minutes.
so, wouldn't the only plausible out come be, POSSIBLY, more wear on your car and really little to no difference in the chemicals you're releasing..?
ideally if your car is NOT warmed up you drive at higher RPMs thus burning more fuel and make a thicker exhaust or w/e releasing more chemicals into the atmosphere...
when your car is idle the engine works much less and emits a lot less harmful chemicals correct?
so ideally wouldn't either way really just be about the same?
now i understand a car idling for a half hour, would burn much more fuel then taking off at a higher RPM for a few minutes.
so, wouldn't the only plausible out come be, POSSIBLY, more wear on your car and really little to no difference in the chemicals you're releasing..?
cca4, i also let my car "cool off" after a drive, its suppose to rest a little before turning off your car when you have a turbo. i let it idle for 30secs - 1 minute, hence a turbo timer.
i don't have one so i just sit there and turn down my radio, turn off the heated seats etc. anything to waste a minute before killing the engine.
i don't have one so i just sit there and turn down my radio, turn off the heated seats etc. anything to waste a minute before killing the engine.
Get in your car and drive it. Don't beat on it until it is warmed up and you will be fine.
The FUD surrounding this topic is astounding.
#30
@lukas
Yes, me overriding it maybe unnecessary. If it was really that harmful to the motor, I am sure they would have added a safety feature on the tip mode too. Meaning, even if I were to attempt to switch gears, there will be a longer delay until it reachers desired parameters.
My only reason? Preference. I hate to hear the motor run at 3000rpm(and it kinda sits there for a while) at low speeds out in the frigid weather. Would anyone who has a manual do the same?
Yes, me overriding it maybe unnecessary. If it was really that harmful to the motor, I am sure they would have added a safety feature on the tip mode too. Meaning, even if I were to attempt to switch gears, there will be a longer delay until it reachers desired parameters.
My only reason? Preference. I hate to hear the motor run at 3000rpm(and it kinda sits there for a while) at low speeds out in the frigid weather. Would anyone who has a manual do the same?