Jeff M

After reading this whole thread, is it only the cam chain tensioner thats bad right now? Why not just fix that and be on your way? Everything else sounds like preventitive maintenance which can be taken care of when you can afford it. I bought my 97' A4 a few years ago for 3K with 88K miles on it. I know the forums all recommend replacing the timing belt, and what the conciquences are if it breaks. I know not everyone will agree with me, but why fix something that isn't broke? I now have 120K miles and it runs just fine. So far after 2yrs and 30K miles, I've only had to replace one wheel bearing, two outer tie rods, and the front rotors. All of which I did myself with the help of these forums If I had to guess, I'd say I've got about 4K into the car right now, and I'm pretty sure I can get close to that out of it. With yours being a 2001? I would think you could get your money back easily for what you have into it. I wouldn't let anyone scare you out of owning your Audi for things that "could" happen. Hell, my Silverado is costing me more money to maintain then my Audi right now

 

No offense, dlcain, but you sound like the working definition of someone who is penny-wise but pound-foolish.

Do you really think saving $1000 now by not doing the timing belt job is worth paying $4,000 later for a rebuilt engine when the tensioner fails and you break the timing belt while doing 65mph on the freeway?

In addition to the cost of another engine when the valves bend, you also have to factor in the cost of a tow, and the inconvenience factor of when/where you are when the timing belt goes.

Just like death and taxes, a failed Audi timing belt is a fact of life. I'd rather do the job every 80,000 miles and have the peace of mind instead of gambling on getting another 10,000 or even 50,000 miles on the original one.

Hell, it's worth $1,000 to not get stranded on the side of the road while going to some important event like a wedding, first date with Salma Hayek(hey, I'm old) or even just a run to get to the liquor store before it closes!

 

Just get the timing belt/tensioner done, and before you change the oil seafoam it then change it with synthetic. Change the trans fluid and drive the car, I hate when people have the cliche "its foreign so it will break". My best cars were foreign cars (most reliable). Good Luck !

 

My Camaro used to brake down at least once a Month. The BMW atleast once a year. Audi, 1 Time so Far in 1 Year. Thus, people who say Foreign CARs ( GERMAN) Brakes all the Time, is BS. The only reason why I drive a German Car is because they seem to design it for the AutoBan. They have to make a tough car to make it on the AutoBan.

 

Yeah I think it's just the people who have bad experiences who ruin it for new or future owners just as the OP. I'd much rather spend a few more bucks on maint. and drive in style and be comfortable than drive a piece of junk like my old chevy s10 which seemed to have two things break after fixing one prior issue

 

First, Dlcain, you're awesome. If you live around northern Illinois, let me know, I could use a few boat payments.

Second, to the OP: I'm a mechanic, and at my shop there is no way in hell I would suggest a service based on I've seen this happen, or your turbo is too old, or anything like that. Good mechanics will try to prevent problems, yes. But replacing a Turbo, for instance, Is just trying to get into your pocket.

At 160k mileage I would not suggest a transmission fluid change at all (moreso without any service records). If it's dirty and destroyed, then it's dangerous to change. If it's not dirty and broken down....then it's not dirty and broken down...

They want to change the oil pickup tube because these engines like to destroy them and then eat themselves. They are using that to scare you into spending a ton of money.

Get the timing belt, water pump and tensioner changed. Or do it yourself and save $600-800. Preventive work would be brakes, suspension, drive belt stuff (like the drive belt tensioner or alternator) battery, etc. I tell my customers much the same. your car has 160k miles on it. We aren't going to do anything major to the engine or trans, unless it actually needs it, and then only if they think its worth it.

Finally, it sounds like people in your area don't have good experience with these cars. I think they are better than a lot of fords/chevy/chrysler garbage thats out there (honestly, what late 90s domestic car would be anywhere near a B5?). So it may well be worth it to start DiY. Take a weekend and do the timing belt, a nice long Saturday should be sufficent. there are even youtube videos out there to help you get an idea of what everything looks like. Take the money you save and have a night out

 

Just because they work on Import cars doesn't mean they acctually know how to work on an Audi. Most shops that say they work on Import cars usually just work on cars from Japan, most shops that work on Audi cars will say they work on European cars. There is a HUGE difference. Best thing is to find a local shop that just works on European cars or just works on Audi.

 

Not to be rude but that is about the dumbest thing I have ever heard(well read). The timing belt is not one of those parts you only replace once it is broken, so your "why replace it if it's not broken" rule does NOT apply. The last thing you want to happen is to have the timing belt break, because that means spending way more money to replace it and the broken valves and even having to replace the pistons.


Your just rolling the dice by not replacing the timing belt kit when it should be replaced and now telling other people they should also roll the dice with you by not replacing a timing belt on a interference engine. Not very smart if you ask me seeing your talking about a low cost part that can do major damage to the engine when one of the parts for the timing belt fails.

 

Is the OP even reading their own thread anymore?

 

i did my timing belt job at 60k. and i did it because i had to do a valve gasket job and cam gasket too. btw, timing belt is way easier than doing the entire control arm swap.